How To: Oil Change Instructions

I do believe this is the filter part number- I order a few as no local dealer has them. BMW charges $30 for FYI

I am looking for the CBS reset instructions. There is a chance you cannot do this without a scantool meaning the car will forever tell you that you need to change the oil once you hit that 10k mark until it is reset at the dealership. There are some guides for older BMWs that state this can be accomplished via holding down the odometer button OR using a scan tool but I looking for the real instructions for the Supra. If I find them I will post- if anyone else knows, please add to this thread.

There is no dipstick- the car will test it's own oil level (once the car is warmed up). A stupid design, apparently BMW has had this in place for 10+ years. You can hurt the engine by underfilling or overfilling but you have no way of knowing oil level until you run the car test from the menu screen and that will not work unless you warm up the car.

More info

If you press and hold the odo reset button in the lower left of the instrument cluster for 10 seconds, the car will display a menu where in bmw will allow cbs reset. It is missing, however, maybe it only becomes an option when there is something that needs to be reset? ... for the locked menus, the code to enter is the sum of the last 7 digits of your vin number. Press the odo reset button to advance the number and hold to enter it. There are some useful options in this menu including putting the car into dyno mode. The lack of cbs reset is annoying and i hope it can be found here when there is a warning thrown.

Natek said:

More info

If you press and hold the odo reset button in the lower left of the instrument cluster for 10 seconds, the car will display a menu where in bmw will allow cbs reset. It is missing, however, maybe it only becomes an option when there is something that needs to be reset? ... for the locked menus, the code to enter is the sum of the last 7 digits of your vin number. Press the odo reset button to advance the number and hold to enter it. There are some useful options in this menu including putting the car into dyno mode. The lack of cbs reset is annoying and i hope it can be found here when there is a warning thrown.

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I believe its the last 6 digits of the vin not 7.

MidgetCyclops said:

I believe its the last 6 digits of the vin not 7.

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1st of the Seven is a W for me, so has to be the last 6.

*last 6.

I realized someone posted a video on this after i added the info.

https://www.supramkv.com/threads/hidden-diagnostic-menu.2019/

In bmws the maintenance reset is an option in these menus.
I am also keeping an eye on carly to see when they will include the supra

https://www.mycarly.com/en/

The filters arrived today and with 2000 miles on the clock it is time for the first oil change. The filters were $7.50 each! do not be a fool and pay the $30 BMW tax buying them from a BMW dealer.

Here is what is included in the kit:



It includes: the crush washer, the oil ring for the canister cover and the oil filter element. Review the instructions earlier posted, there are 3 oil seals pre-installed on the filter: two on the bottom and one on top- all 3 plus the canister ring needs to be lubed with fresh oil when you install.

As the instructions indicate, it is 18 ft-lbs of torque for both the canister and the oil plug.

The plastic engine cover lifts right off (there are 4 push downs then pull right out like other Toyota models, plastic knobs set in rubber bushings).

The engine oil recommended is 0w20 6.9 quarts.

***don't be a lazyass! CHANGE THE FILTER*** it is probably more important to change the filter than it is to change the oil. It is probably a good idea to change the filter more often, and I plan on doing it at 5k intervals whereas the oil will be at 10k. The filter is catching all the particles and will be the limiting factor. No, all your engine oil does not drain out if you pull the filter.

The filter is not that hard to get to- the canister takes a 32mm socket



When you remove the canister cover the filter is seated underneath. it takes a put of force to pull up and out (remember there are 2 O-rings holding it down). There is no locking mechanism holding the filter down, though you may think so.

Fort Knox.

As others have mentioned, there are some metal shavings in the oil. From the other posts on oil changes, it is not unique to my vehicle. As a result, I HIGHLY recommend changing the initial oil sooner than the 1 year mark. Do it yourself, it is not hard. I started the drain at 11am, it is now 2pm and the oil is still dripping out. No dealer will wait that long but it is better to let it all come out and I did the filter change in the meantime and closed that up. There were metal shavings in the filter housing too. This highlights why I previously recommended not being lazy on the filter ESPECIALLY with the first change.

The metal shavings are not huge, they glisten when you shine a light on them but are extremely small. The pictures to follow try to show what I am talking about, however, there are some bubbles and dirt in the oil too so it is not as terrible as it seems. I was not super aggressive during the break in period, in previous posts I explain how when I picked up the car I spent hours driving through the Virginia byways where you couldn't go over 25mph even if you wanted to. This may be normal and I encourage you all to do a change and post what you find when you get a few miles on the car.

Nevertheless here is an attempt to show:







The car is still draining, I will post an update when I finally finish this but I may leave it draining for the night.

24 hour oil change? That is dedication!

Be curious to cross match the filter with the BMW part#, as it is cheaper from Toyota for sure. I pay about $14 for the oil filter kit (filter and two o-rings) for the B58 in my X3 M40i, which is BMW part #11-42-8-583-898. Looks similar, if not the same, as the one you showed.

BTW, when you add the new oil, add the proper amount spec'd for oil+filter change, then run the engine and look at the oil level reported in iDrive. Normally the correct oil level will be a few bars below the top of the scale and the screen will report "oil level OK" or something like that. Some people have decided they want it to show the full number of bars on the scale and then end up overfilling their engine. As long as it says "OK" and you put in the spec'd amount, you're good.

(I'd prefer a dipstick myself).

The oil has now been dripping out for 6 hours. look at hour much oil that amounts to as I emptied the initial oil into an oil dolly:



This is more of a big deal on this initial change due to the metal that is suspended in that oil. I will try again to show it but it is not coming out very clear. You can download the picture and zoom in or better yet- just do your own change and if you see something similar, let-it-drain. There is no reason not to take extra care especially on the break in oil.



I only circled a subset where it looks most clear in the picture

After a night of draining, I buttoned it all up, put in ~6.8 quarts of oil and fired it up. Quite the lifter tick sound until the oil circulated all around. You will not be able to check the oil level until the car warms up. It says you need to drive it around for 30 minutes but you don't. I let the engine warm up and it takes about 20 minutes of running before you can check the oil but when it is ready the button will come alive. If you want to get there quicker, you can put it in neutral and gently bring it to about 2k rpms after it has been running a bit.

Nevertheless, below is what you want to see. Notice, the MAX line is not at the top of the screen, if you are up there you probably overfilled it which can result in damage.

For reference the 3 warnings are: driver door opened, hood opened, engine fluids hot (which is a function of the hood being opened when the engine is at operating temp).

I guess it may be possible to disconnect the injectors to allow turning over the engine to avoid the lifter tick..?

J_Orr said:

I guess it may be possible to disconnect the injectors to allow turning over the engine to avoid the lifter tick..?

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Um i probably wouldnt recommend. It goes away once all the oil is flowing again.
No injectors means no engine running means no oil circulation, .... and the procedure is not listed in the change instructions.

I guess I'll be the lazy person that asks: Will 7 quarts overfill it?