Battery replacement on new LE 2020?

If they were able to charge it and register it... the battery was still well within specs - so it being dead is because it sat in idle mode for way too long most likely (or some other parasitic drain caused it, but if you didn't add a dash cam or other electronics without shutoffs I doubt that).

If you locked it then it should have been fine, but if you didn't - and keep the keys too close to it, it might not fully shutdown I suppose. How long between drives was it sitting (and how short were the drives)? Even when I lock mine, I've usually already shut it down completely by holding the radio power button 3 secs. before I even exit the car. Shouldn't need to do both, but it's become a habit.

I keep my car in the garage so I don't lock my doors. The system thankfully goes into idle after a while as long as the keys are close, to your point. No battery issues yet...

kayos90 said:

I keep my car in the garage so I don't lock my doors. The system thankfully goes into idle after a while as long as the keys are close, to your point. No battery issues yet...

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So if the keys are close,c the car sits at an idle, draining the battery? So do you suggest manually shutting down electronics after taking key out of ignition?

What is the best process of preventing battery drain after taking the key out of ignition? If not driving much, recommend a battery tender?

JggyMKV said:

So if the keys are close,c the car sits at an idle, draining the battery? So do you suggest manually shutting down electronics after taking key out of ignition?

What is the best process of preventing battery drain after taking the key out of ignition? If not driving much, recommend a battery tender?

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With this car, I would get a battery tender. You can also hold down the volume button for the radio to make sure everything is shut down, but locking the car, is, IMO, the best way to make sure. When I use the volume control to shut down the car, once leaving, and if I don't lock it, the battery stays around 79 to 80%, and that is where it is charged to anyway. Mine will sometimes charge to 81% and that is how BMW does it. I also called a number of big BMW dealers and one manager told me he had asked a few times, why they charge to 80% and they would not tell him. And there you go.

John8 said:

With this car, I would get a battery tender. You can also hold down the volume button for the radio to make sure everything is shut down, but locking the car, is, IMO, the best way to make sure. When I use the volume control to shut down the car, once leaving, and if I don't lock it, the battery stays around 79 to 80%, and that is where it is charged to anyway. Mine will sometimes charge to 81% and that is how BMW does it. I also called a number of big BMW dealers and one manager told me he had asked a few times, why they charge to 80% and they would not tell him. And there you go.

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Which battery tender do you recommend??? Amazon link? Will probably look into doing that.

JggyMKV said:

Which battery tender do you recommend??? Amazon link? Will probably look into doing that.

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I use this one when needed. The Slow mode will work well and cut off around 82% or so.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014QYFAWS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I know many have preferences. This one shows you the charge and what is going on.

When I purchased my Supra the service manager came out to speak to me about quite a few things. He said to lock the car to prevent battery drain. He should know since he is the service manager, Plus he owns a 2020 Supra!

Locking the door will not be sufficiently equivalent to a battery tender.
You will still lose charge and run into issues if the car sits too long. That is why when the cars ship, they do not simply have the doors locked and instead need to be switched from transportation mode via computer link once they arrive at the dealership. Good attempt by the toyota manager but this forum has example after example that toyota does not really understand bmw

Natek said:

Locking the door will not be sufficiently equivalent to a battery tender.
You will still lose charge and run into issues if the car sits too long. That is why when the cars ship, they do not simply have the doors locked and instead need to be switched from transportation mode via computer link once they arrive at the dealership. Good attempt by the toyota manager but this forum has example after example that toyota does not really understand bmw

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And yet another reason why I wouldn't want to have to rely on a BMW as my only form of transportation. My 4Runner sat idle for about 2 months this last time... fired right up without any hesitation and drove like a champ.

Anyone have issues with the battery recharge and the ac not working?

I just had the dealer replace the battery and re-register it, but after 10 minutes of driving home the "Replace Battery' warning came back on. Would anyone have any insight to why its still throwing the warning?

I don't have a BMW past, but I do remember people saying BMW's have 2 batteries and they're expensive.
A quick Google confirms this (on some models). I haven't fiddled around in the engine bay to see a 2nd one or seen a 2nd in trunk.. throwing ideas here..

The dealership did some research and told me that because they replaced it with the Toyota Branded battery (00544-H9AGM-T50) it will continue to throw the 'Replace Battery' warning. So they now need to order the BMW branded battery that has a "barcode" on it.

For those who had their battery replaced did they put a BMW branded battery in or are some of you running the Toyota one? I find it odd that Toyota would have a battery for the Supra, but it doesn't work in the car...

KVN said:

The dealership did some research and told me that because they replaced it with the Toyota Branded battery (00544-H9AGM-T50) it will continue to throw the 'Replace Battery' warning. So they now need to order the BMW branded battery that has a "barcode" on it.

For those who had their battery replaced did they put a BMW branded battery in or are some of you running the Toyota one? I find it odd that Toyota would have a battery for the Supra, but it doesn't work in the car...

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I had my battery replaced at delivery. It was replaced with the Toyota labeled battery (which I'm sure is likely a BMW part like everything else). I have never seen the Replace Battery warning since.