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If a dealership can take a generic replacement DME and code it to the proper VIN, I don't see why they couldn't code a 20 to a 21's vin?

Can you post a screenshot of your map6 log, or attach it? Just curious. Have you done any 60-130 or 40-100mph runs with a dragy or Vbox?

Yeah I understand all of that, I have a meth kit using their fsb, fuel it sensor, ewg, all tied in. It's garbage. My reference was to the fact that even their more expensive products are beta quality at best.

It's the fact that JB4 just isn't very good. Got a replacement board, and replacement Bluetooth adapter... Still garbage, and feels like I'm stomping on and off the throttle. Have a reputable tuner that has done dozens of these things.

Thanks, I've gone that route before but they don't really help except to provide basic assistance... Which is to be expected since they're doing it as a courtesy. I have generated about 100 logs, countless pulls, etc, and it's still not dialed in. Looks like a new board may have solved most of...

It will look fine for the first 1500-2500 miles, folks, then after that it's going to start burning at about a quart every 1000-1500. You will be positive and optimistic through at least the first 2500 miles.

Absolutely. If it's going to be late, even a simple email helps a ton. If It's overdue, the company isn't responsive, and there's no reason or adjusted ETA... Asking for unhappy customers.

First rule in setting timelines for customers: under promise, over deliver. Anything less than that is asking for 100% valid complaints.

Retightened my shit ass Titan motorsports titanium exhaust again. In half a month it's got a track day and an 8 hour round trip... Betting odds for it ending up falling off the car on the interstate?

That confirms mine is not the finished product then... I actually had to lift the car up and readjust everything yet again. Using an impact to tighten the clamps and the shit is still shifting. One more time and it's going up for sale, assuming it doesn't end up smashed up on the highway...

Did you install it yourself? Fitment on mine left something to be desired, had to hammer in the heat shield a bunch and Jerry rig a few things to make it clear the bumper. Make sure to tighten everything down after a few drives or it'll come apart and melt your bumper...

This is turning into Facebook. Everyone thinks they're an expert and bash each other like the other person is any less of a fake expert. Stop pretending it's facebook please.

I say you try it. Show us all.???‍♂️

Crazy, I had a good experience with them, but I think they had the wheel in stock. Had it within a week, so yeah. Had your same experience with East Coast Supra, and a friend had to wait for like four months because they screwed up the first order. The only thing you can fault these shops for...

That was the point of my first sentence.

Mine was at the tick before MIN, added about 1/3 of a quart...now it reads full. There's no way the MAX and MIN reading span an entire quart.

Toyota has a racing division, we own street cars. I'm sure if they released a track only car they'd provide an unlocked DME. I will give someone my house and all my vehicles if Toyota were to actively work towards unlocking something that is nothing but a net positive for their company. Does...

Surely you're joking.

I've had pretty clear hardware issues with my JB4, switching to weird map numbers and it's never been able to make noticeable power without hesitation or some other nasty side effect. The product is clearly not ready for prime time or I just have a rare bad board in mine. The JB4 also isn't a...

Gah, that sucks, man. I thought I was out of the woods when I had passed 2000 miles since my oil change and not a drop was burnt. I am thinking that the max-min lines might be less than a quart, maybe half or a quarter, and that's why it rapidly drops.