For me, it's usually the first 15 minutes of so of the drive. Just loses connection for a second or two every few minutes. After that, it typically stops and works fine the rest of the trip.
Heating is a normal phenomenon of inductive wireless charging, because in the process of wireless transmission, energy will be lost, and heat will be generated. It is recommended not to play with the phone while charging and pay attention to heat dissipation.
OK, so the solution is to turn the...
Dang. You got to that fast. I tried to delete because I’m in a bad mood at work right now and realized I was being snarky. Sorry about that.
I don’t get device needs to cool messages on the phone. It just starts screwing up on Pandora or Amazon Music after only 45 minutes. When I take it off...
Do you have a 20 or 21? I just can’t believe there would be that much difference. Maybe in the 20 since the 21 power increases are mostly high RPM. There’s simply no way my car runs mid-11s by manually short shifting versus the 11.98 to 12.05 I ran in full auto.
Car was definitely locked and loaded or “squated and boosted”. Took damn near all the left leg strength I had to keep the brake mashed hard enough to keep the car from lurching forward and red lighting! However, once I sidestepped the brake and mashed the gas it just hooked and bogged. Hence...
Or, keep it simple? I ran 11.98 and 1.74 60 ft on 200TW autocross tires. Short "burn out" after the water box just to dry them off. Launch at 2000-2200, everything off, full auto mode. I did try using manual mode and launching in 2nd once. I just don't believe our cars have enough torque...
Not supposed to get so hot they start malfunctioning which is what happens. That’s not how it’s supposed to work. That’s why I also use the USB. No biggie. Works perfectly plugged in.
Or be patient? Does anyone honestly believe only the Russians can do this? Supply and demand will work it's magic sooner rather than later (already started to actually). Once multiple USA based options come into play, the supply side will increase significantly and the cost will decrease...
Also spend a little more and get the 7000. If you have or ever will have a truck or suv that exceeds 5000 lbs you’ll be able to use it for those as well. Will likely need the truck and suv extension kit too. Look for a 7000 bundle to save a little money.
Looks like supply chain crap has hit the OBDLInk world too. I was going to say to save $60 and buy the ODBLink CX rather than MX+ but the CX is currently unavailable. It doesn't even come up in the search results on Amazon. I found this but when you choose buy on Amazon it comes up as not...
Search for bimmercode user guide. I think it’s the best of many threads. I would attach the link but don’t know how on my phone. Like has been said it’s very easy and there are many other things you’ll want to code as well. Reading the whole thread and others will give you lots of ideas.
If you go through a quart every 750 to 1000 miles you’ll never need an oil change. Just replace the filter once per year. The oil will always be fresh!! Lol