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@Evolution - if you coded in both options there should be two changes... one being what you show in your pics (options for engine and trans under sport custom). The second change should be three options when you push the sport button - normal, sport custom and sport +. Depending on the other...

Part of the reason I got rid of my RC-F and got the Supra was the mileage potential. No matter how boring I drove that I couldn't get above 18mpg... and if I was actually enjoying driving it... more like 10-12. That thing was such a boat! One thing I've noticed is that since I've coded it to...

I haven't in any car that was fun... but in my '92 Civic with the 1.5L I4 I could hit 50mpg on highway runs to CA and was regularly in the low 30's in town. That was with a 5spd manual... if I'd had a 6th gear it would have been even better highway.

I regularly do around 30mpg in mine when I drive out to Pahrump, which is a bit similar to your NV-CA run described (i.e. hill climb then descent... so quite a bit worse at first, then insanely high on the back side of the pass). Of course, I've also never gone as slow as 70mph (unless there's...

It's the Varis CF "arising" vented hood. So drool worthy. Just trying to justify the ~$5K+ price in my mind... which is a bit difficult at the moment or I'd have one already. Not even in the same ballpark as a Seibon product IMO. ;)

That wrap looks fantastic... but I spend so much time staring at the hood that it's hard to focus on the rest. So drool worthy, but hard (for me at least) to justify spending 10% of what I paid for the whole car just for a hood replacement. :D In your case, it's probably just a rounding error...

Did you put the dabs of silicone on the grill (from @tadda 's post above and earlier in thread)? I'd also check the chassis connection points for the housing on that side as it's possible something isn't quite tight. It's unlikely to be bad wiring if the sound itself isn't distorted and/or...

I think it's a safe generalization regardless of motor, etc. After all, depending on the amount, you can be perfectly fine but still technically "low" on oil (up to a bit over a quart low). With low pressure however it's now very likely that oil is not circulating properly, and possibly not...

Sounds exactly like the speakers in my office through which I'm listening to the video. :dunno: I'm sure it sounds much better now... but a YT video isn't going to prove that one way or another. Congratulations on the completing the project however. :thumbsup:

The biggest issue I could see with it would be in the performance vs cost ratio. I would presume that adding the large A2A IC would reduce the efficiency of the stock heat exchanger by a small amount (and preclude upgrading it as well possibly). At the very least it will get slightly hotter...

According to the listing it's not a conversion but an add-on (the primary intercooler would still be A2W but the charge would further be cooled A2A by the front mount). Not that it makes it less interesting... if anything possibly more interesting IMO. It definitely will make for an even more...

It's not a hard rule, but I've found it's far better to be the smartest one in your circle than the dumbest... it's generally more entertaining that way. On a completely off-topic note, I would like to compliment you on having impeccable taste in music (I'm a huge Clutch fan myself). :cool:

Those wheels do look fantastic... but I can't overcome my hood envy enough to properly look at them. ;)

Here too... I'm strongly considering dropping to 18's for that reason. Well, that and I prefer the fat-tire look personally. If it were a show car on the other hand... 20's all the way.

Yes. They acknowledge that fact in their other systems, which come in the two flavors (OEM/Custom drivers). They have some kits which are marked "OEM for now" in the tuning section... so they likely have a different DSP file they can either provide or switch to somehow without sending...

It seems like many of the cheaper versions are having problems with the mesh failing (unglued or torn). So whatever is the most durable and heat-resistant (I presume CF) would definitely make paying more worth the cost IMO. :thumbsup:

Whether due to "teething problems" with changes to MY21 or simple luck of the draw on the assembly line... the fact that I've put 20K completely trouble-free miles on my MY20 (and been able to actually drive it for an additional year) means no regrets whatsoever. I'll take that any day over a...

Looks fantastic. So you're using the ES 100K's as passive's with active crossover via DSP correct? I looked at those early on, but figuring out where to put the passive crossovers for them in the door without clearance issues put that idea on pause. I saw you also hooked the extra channels to...

Good to know it's just marketing fluff and not an actual representation of the frequency response of the results. :thumbsup: As far as there being no such thing as a "perfect house curve" however, we'll just have to agree to disagree with that... I'm with Toole and Olive on that note...

Exactly. If you are tuned and modified... then it's a package deal (and a pay to play situation). If not, then there is no grounds for denial of a warranty claim. Not that there's anything wrong with tuning or modifying a car to extract as much performance as possible... I certainly have...