A90 Supra Brake Pads / Rotors / Fluid

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razorlab

razorlab

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Well currently I think one or two of my rotors are warped I'm not sure how but they are. and there is not much metal left on the rotors which is weird since i don't go street racing every day. Yes they see abuse, but didn't expect that much. Just to make sure I took it to a shop I trust, and I didn't mention the rotors and they confirmed that one of the rotors is warped and they need changing. This is the 2nd time around I have to change my rotors and pads at the same time. First change was around 30k and second was at 68k.
You’re getting approximately 30k out of a set of front rotors?
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FLtrackdays

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That sounds like a lot to me. The Supra isn’t light, you probably aren’t grandma driving her and might even have decent pads on yours = will go through them quicker. As for mine, I chew through my front rotors about 2.5x faster than my rears, as expected. Track driving with track pads will absolutely eat through rotors (and pads for that matter).

As far as our other lighter cars in town cars, they get about 15k miles or more depending on the pads that are on them. My daughter’s Ford fiesta has about 45k miles on hers. Light car, ceramic pads and driving on flat in town Florida.

So lots of variables brother. Regardless, I buy only the best cheap rotors that are rust prone for my family. LOL, sounds like a sit com and commercial, all at the same time.
 

D3ad_Hand

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That sounds like a lot to me. The Supra isn’t light, you probably aren’t grandma driving her and might even have decent pads on yours = will go through them quicker. As for mine, I chew through my front rotors about 2.5x faster than my rears, as expected. Track driving with track pads will absolutely eat through rotors (and pads for that matter).

As far as our other lighter cars in town cars, they get about 15k miles or more depending on the pads that are on them. My daughter’s Ford fiesta has about 45k miles on hers. Light car, ceramic pads and driving on flat in town Florida.

So lots of variables brother. Regardless, I buy only the best cheap rotors that are rust prone for my family. LOL, sounds like a sit com and commercial, all at the same time.
make sense to me. And yes I do not grandma drive her, it's just natural to me at this point to floor it randomly or go a bit above the speed limit. I will look for some rotors that are better than stock this time around. So going back to my question anyone tried out the paragon or girodisc rotors? Any help would be appreciated.
 
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razorlab

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So going back to my question anyone tried out the paragon or girodisc rotors? Any help would be appreciated.
What pads are you running? Pretty sure your rotors aren't warping, it's kind of a myth and very rare when they actually do. Normally it is pad deposits. Do you know what the actual measure width or your rotors are when they state to you they need to be replaced?

As far as rotors, I can purchase eight pairs of rotors for the price of one pair of Girodiscs, so I just do that. Much better price/performance ratio.
 

D3ad_Hand

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What pads are you running? Pretty sure your rotors aren't warping, it's kind of a myth and very rare when they actually do. Normally it is pad deposits. Do you know what the actual measure width or your rotors are when they state to you they need to be replaced?

As far as rotors, I can purchase eight pairs of rotors for the price of one pair of Girodiscs, so I just do that. Much better price/performance ratio.
Im currently on stock pads I just changed them recently. As far as the width of the rotors I am not sure. But I dont think much is left.
 

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If it’s your first track day ever, your stock pads will do just fine. Make sure the brake fluid is fresh however if you’ve owned the car a while.
what would be a good set of pads afterwards though? I like to buy ahead of time
 

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Cobalt Racing Brakes

Toyota GR Supra CRB.XRx.D1867 (Front)

$459.00

Toyota GR Supra CRB.XRx.D1892 (Rear)

$339.00

Cobalt suggests XR1 Front /XR3 Rear or XR2 Front/XR4 Rear (Less aggressive, similar to a Hawk DTC60-30 combo)

I exclusively ran cobalts on the exocet and loved them. Fantastic brakes. They also dont care what compound was on the rotor before so you can pop in race pads at the track and pop street pads back in leaving.
 

FLtrackdays

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what would be a good set of pads afterwards though? I like to buy ahead of time
Good idea. I used to keep multiple Hawks in my garage. If repeated stopping power is your primary concern, Hawk DTC 60/30 or Project Mu Club racers will do the trick for ya for a long time. Eventually you’ll find yourself having to brake sooner or trail braking harder & longer as your times go down. Then you’ll move up to Project Mu 999s. All of them are fantastic pads for the price.
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