About to do a spring install loking for latest advise.

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I’ll be installing the Z4 Eibach lowering springs.

I’ve been trying to pull together the latest best practices for a strait forward “do it one time install.”

here are some questions:

1. What are the torque specs for all the major nuts?
2. I’ve read there are sometimes issues with the top hat and wheel bearing, something about the bearing needing to be aligned from underneath? Also, is it better to lower and pull the top hat out when removing and reinstalling the strut?

I’ve bought rear spring splicers to avoid any clunking just in case.

Any other suggestions. I’ve been watching several install videos and reading posts so I’m pretty familiar with the process and I’ve installed springs on many of my other cars, but this car seems to have more “issues” than most once springs have been installed.

 

a90aloy

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I don't remember who posted this info, I think it was in spring noise thread. I am switching from swift to z4 springs. I put in brand new bearings and I get bearing noise in a parking lot situation. Be sure to have a pry bar for the rears. The z4 are supposed to come with rear silencers.

sway bar 16 mm and t30
shock 18 mm and 6 mm allen
13 mm rear shock and e14
rear 21mm, et20, 18 mm and 18 mm

52 ft-lbs for that central nut on the front struts ("Front Support to Front Shock Absorber Nut")
21 ft-lbs +90 degrees for the four torx bolts on the top strut mount (topside of engine bay)
41 ft-lbs for the endlinks on all corners
122 ft-lbs + 90deg for the rear lower control arm to the knuckle
74 ft-lbs + 90deg for the rear strut to the rear lower control arm
rear shock 21 ft-lbs
top nut 30 ft-lbs
 

MisterSkiz

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I don't remember who posted this info, I think it was in spring noise thread. I am switching from swift to z4 springs. I put in brand new bearings and I get bearing noise in a parking lot situation. Be sure to have a pry bar for the rears. The z4 are supposed to come with rear silencers.

sway bar 16 mm and t30
shock 18 mm and 6 mm allen
13 mm rear shock and e14
rear 21mm, et20, 18 mm and 18 mm

52 ft-lbs for that central nut on the front struts ("Front Support to Front Shock Absorber Nut")
21 ft-lbs +90 degrees for the four torx bolts on the top strut mount (topside of engine bay)
41 ft-lbs for the endlinks on all corners
122 ft-lbs + 90deg for the rear lower control arm to the knuckle
74 ft-lbs + 90deg for the rear strut to the rear lower control arm
rear shock 21 ft-lbs
top nut 30 ft-lbs

You need to open up you bearings, regrease them, and reset/reinstall them - they are not in there correctly and that is why you have the noise - its not the spring.
 

MisterSkiz

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I’ll be installing the Z4 Eibach lowering springs.

I’ve been trying to pull together the latest best practices for a strait forward “do it one time install.”

here are some questions:

1. What are the torque specs for all the major nuts?
2. I’ve read there are sometimes issues with the top hat and wheel bearing, something about the bearing needing to be aligned from underneath? Also, is it better to lower and pull the top hat out when removing and reinstalling the strut?

I’ve bought rear spring splicers to avoid any clunking just in case.

Any other suggestions. I’ve been watching several install videos and reading posts so I’m pretty familiar with the process and I’ve installed springs on many of my other cars, but this car seems to have more “issues” than most once springs have been installed.
Its the easiest car that I have ever changed the suspension on.

Some pain points are:
1) Getting the ride height sensors out of the arm - the pyramid plastic pin is a pain

2) Getting the lower control arm lined up correctly with the hole - you will need to jack it up gently making sure you are not pinching the bushing on the knuckle.

3) The front strut bearings sometimes fall apart when you do the shortcut method - make sure you have grease on hand to repack them. When you reinstall make sure everything is 100% lined up correctly (its hard to do when by yourself the spring will move in the perch)- lower the car down and turn the wheels back and forth left and right to full lock to make sure that you do not have any noise.

I got a stubby milwaukee impact which helped alot:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HCM1HKG

See these videos:





 
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Last Lemming

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Thank you for all y’all’s input.

Is there any benefit of lowering the strut with the top hat/bearing with it, or would I have better success with alignment leaving the TH/bearing in place?

also can you elaborate on what exactly is being aligned with what on the front bearings. Just want to make sure I’m paying attention to the right thing.

thanks again!
 

Deighvid

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Hot take, don't be lazy and unclip the ride height sensor, risking damaging it. Unbolt the top of the mechanism where it's mounted to the car, it takes 30 seconds.

20210905_104644.jpg


The top portion unbolts entirely and is super easy.

Also take a picture of the orientation. It might seem obvious, but when you're tired later you could forget since the arm could angle either direction and look correct when it's not.
 

TNZupra

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Good thread, I’m installing RSR Ti2000 downs this coming weekend.
 

MYA90SUPRA

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I don't remember who posted this info, I think it was in spring noise thread. I am switching from swift to z4 springs. I put in brand new bearings and I get bearing noise in a parking lot situation. Be sure to have a pry bar for the rears. The z4 are supposed to come with rear silencers.

sway bar 16 mm and t30
shock 18 mm and 6 mm allen
13 mm rear shock and e14
rear 21mm, et20, 18 mm and 18 mm

52 ft-lbs for that central nut on the front struts ("Front Support to Front Shock Absorber Nut")
21 ft-lbs +90 degrees for the four torx bolts on the top strut mount (topside of engine bay)
41 ft-lbs for the endlinks on all corners
122 ft-lbs + 90deg for the rear lower control arm to the knuckle
74 ft-lbs + 90deg for the rear strut to the rear lower control arm
rear shock 21 ft-lbs
top nut 30 ft-lbs
Those ones with the turn in them sound like Torque to yield bolts. If they are the need to be replaced.
 

suicidaleggroll

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Hot take, don't be lazy and unclip the ride height sensor, risking damaging it. Unbolt the top of the mechanism where it's mounted to the car, it takes 30 seconds.



The top portion unbolts entirely and is super easy.

Also take a picture of the orientation. It might seem obvious, but when you're tired later you could forget since the arm could angle either direction and look correct when it's not.
Agreed. I don't know why every install video I watched showed them struggling for 5 minutes to separate the plastic clip. Just ignore the plastic clip and remove the one regular bolt holding the entire assembly to the chassis. Zero risk of damage and it's most likely faster.
 

MYA90SUPRA

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Which battery pack do you recommend? Thanks

I got a stubby milwaukee impact which helped alot:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HCM1HKG
If its a 12 volt I would recommend the big battery. I have lots of the milwaukee tools for automotive work and love them. One tool I do not recommend is the straight die in m12. It over heats fast and cuts out. The 90 degree die grinder is amazing.
 
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Last Lemming

Last Lemming

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Does anybody have a list, qty, and spec of the bolts needed to be replaced?
 

 
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