Alpine amp and sub, Line output converter installation

static63

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Hello everyone,

I figured I would share some information about my recent aftermarket amp install in my 2021 A91. I am by no means a professional but did work in car audio installation in the late 90s/early 2000s so I do have some experience. Take my advice at your own risk!

As we all know, the stock JBL system is good for most people but lacks that low end bass so I wanted to improve that. I have always been a fan of Alpine electronics and a friend of mine is a rep for them so I get a lot of great products and assistance from him. I installed the following items:

Alpine KTA-200m mono amp
Alpine S-SB12V Halo Type-S 12" sub and sub box
Audio Control LC2i Pro line output convertor (LOC)
Relay for remote turn on for the amplifier

I chose that specific amp and convertor for a reason. Both of these are very small and are able to be hidden. Yes, there are more powerful amplifiers out there but this setup ended up being very loud and very clean sounding!

Let's start with power. The amplifier only requires a 10 gauge wire. The relay and line output converter just need primary wire such as 12-14 gauge. I ended up tapping into the distribution block to the right of the battery in the trunk with a 4 gauge power wire. That goes into a four way distribution block that all the power wires for the amp, LOC, and relay feed from.
distribution.jpg


Next was grabbing audio signal. The factory amplifier is behind the large rear panel on the drivers side. All of the output wires are twisted making them easy to find. The larger gauge wires are the subwoofer output wires. I ended up using the Blue/white wire as my positive and the white/black wire as the negative. These leads go to the passenger side OEM subwoofer. The line output converter only requires one channel worth of signal but you can do both left and right if you want. The driver's side sub wire is a purple/green positive and a green/yellow or green/black negative (I can't completely remember but I know the positive is correct and if you have that it is twisted with the correct negative wire!). Here is a pic of the OEM amp and location. It is the silver box with the striped cut outs and the ASD is the box to the right of it. Sorry, not the best pic.
oem amp.jpg


Next up is the remote wire. I originally purchased The LC2i Pro because it has a feature where when it senses audio, it creates a remote output wire to turn on your amp(s). Unfortunately, in this car it didn't work exactly as planned. The LOC would randomly power up without the car being on. I spoke with an audio control rep and they said the car most likely has mics in it, pick up sounds, and powers up something in the CAN network which trips the LOC on. (These are his words, not mine. I do not know if this is true). I didn't like the idea of potentially draining the battery so I ended up finding a switched wire behind the fuse box that is located on the passenger side of the trunk area.

fuse box.jpg

I used this video to help me remove the fuse box and find the wire I needed which ended up being a green/blue wire for the input wire into my relay:


Here is how I wired the relay:

87- Output to the LOC (this goes into the remote in port on the LC2i)
30- 12v constant (this went to my distribution block pictured earlier)
86- This goes to the green/blue wire that is from the fuse box
85- Ground

Here is a pic of the amp and LOC wired and mounted under the space where the panel is that people do the ports in to make the OEM subs sound better. It fits perfectly! I love how everything ended up being concealed for a clean look.
amp and loc.jpg


I do not like how I had to mount the LOC upside down but the RCAs from the Alpine amp wouldn't reach otherwise and I didn't want to use RCA extensions which could add noise, etc.

I also added an Alpine bass knob that plugs directly into the amplifier so I could better control the volume of the subwoofer from the driver's seat.

bass knob.jpg


Here is the trunk all put back together. Again, I love how nothing is seen as far as the amps, etc.
done with wire.jpg


And here is the final product with the sub box in the trunk. I don't use this car for grocery trips or anything so I could care less that I lost most of my trunk space. I can fit a few 12 packs in there and that is good for me!
complete.jpg


As a side note, I did unplug the ASD. When the car was running it would create a hum going through the Alpine sub that drove me nuts. It amplified the "exhaust" sounds too much and made everything sound muddy anyways. I also took the time to install some Noico black 80 mil sound deadening on the floor of the trunk, behind the rear panel, behind the taillights, etc. Pretty much anywhere I thought some noise would result from the subwoofer. There are a couple plastic rattles I need to address still but overall not bad considering how hard this sub hits.

Overall, I am super happy with how everything sounds and how the install turned out. Hopefully this helps anyone looking to add an aftermarket amp to their Supra.

Rob O.





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H2O_Doc

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Very nice and very helpful. I’ve been working on a plan to put a RF 12” P3D2 in a lower profile ported box to be powered by a JL amp (500 watts [email protected] ohms). Not being electronics savvy, I’ve been looking to Technics PNP for a wiring harness. The Supra is new enough that they haven’t provided specific support, but based on the stock amo photos I sent, they suggested this would work:

https://technicpnp.com/product/logi...lufsenbowers-wilkins-add-a-sub-harness-wlocx/

not sure if that makes any sense, but I want to make sure I have things correct so I’m going to read what you did carefully before I take a box of parts to my installer.

thanks again.
 
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static63

static63

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Very nice and very helpful. I’ve been working on a plan to put a RF 12” P3D2 in a lower profile ported box to be powered by a JL amp (500 watts [email protected] ohms). Not being electronics savvy, I’ve been looking to Technics PNP for a wiring harness. The Supra is new enough that they haven’t provided specific support, but based on the stock amo photos I sent, they suggested this would work:

https://technicpnp.com/product/logi...lufsenbowers-wilkins-add-a-sub-harness-wlocx/

not sure if that makes any sense, but I want to make sure I have things correct so I’m going to read what you did carefully before I take a box of parts to my installer.

thanks again.
Plug and play harnesses are definitely nice. They add cost that some people may or may not be willing to spend. There are only three factory wires that get tapped into to do a setup like mine. (One speaker lead and the remote wire input I tapped into for the relay for the remote turn on). The rest is off the battery and grounds.
If you are worried about warranty and the dealer blaming aftermarket equipment then the plug and play is the way to go.
 

H2O_Doc

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Plug and play harnesses are definitely nice. They add cost that some people may or may not be willing to spend. There are only three factory wires that get tapped into to do a setup like mine. (One speaker lead and the remote wire input I tapped into for the relay for the remote turn on). The rest is off the battery and grounds.
If you are worried about warranty and the dealer blaming aftermarket equipment then the plug and play is the way to go.
Found an LC2i in the house yesterday (thought I had sold it on eBay). Doing as you did. My sub just barely touch’s the back of the box, so I’ll add a spacer or (better yet) a thick gasket. Note sure my JL JD1000/1 will fit as you’ve done, but would be nice.
 

METAL

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Did the setup introduce or pronounce any rattles? I'm mostly curious about the top cover now vibrating.
 
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static63

static63

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Did the setup introduce or pronounce any rattles? I'm mostly curious about the top cover now vibrating.
So far, the top cover does not rattle. The rear panel with the access door where the hazard kit is supposed to be, does rattle. I am slowly working on eliminating these with the Noico sound deadening. Unfortunately any car will have some rattles when you have a strong enough subwoofer in there.
 

D3lirix

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I'm just wanting to quickly ask here, the wires I found to the subs are blue/black and white/black and the others are purple/yellow and black/green. Do I have the wrong wires?
 
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static63

static63

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I'm just wanting to quickly ask here, the wires I found to the subs are blue/black and white/black and the others are purple/yellow and black/green. Do I have the wrong wires?
Those sound correct. I should have taken pictures of the wires I tapped into but didn’t. They will be the largest twisted wires in the bundle of speaker wires. You can also pop off the oem sub grills (just pull straight up) and look at the connectors to verify.
 

H2O_Doc

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So far, the top cover does not rattle. The rear panel with the access door where the hazard kit is supposed to be, does rattle. I am slowly working on eliminating these with the Noico sound deadening. Unfortunately any car will have some rattles when you have a strong enough subwoofer in there.
I now use felt tape a lot more than Noico etc except on large body panels. I’m installing this later this month and hope I won’t have too many rattles after having taped things up.
10C5A805-3881-4DF0-B9BF-8C81A5F6BD9E.jpeg
 

D3lirix

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Those sound correct. I should have taken pictures of the wires I tapped into but didn’t. They will be the largest twisted wires in the bundle of speaker wires. You can also pop off the oem sub grills (just pull straight up) and look at the connectors to verify.
Well if anyone wants to know for sure those are the correct wires 😊
 

sanh12

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Hello everyone,

I figured I would share some information about my recent aftermarket amp install in my 2021 A91. I am by no means a professional but did work in car audio installation in the late 90s/early 2000s so I do have some experience. Take my advice at your own risk!

As we all know, the stock JBL system is good for most people but lacks that low end bass so I wanted to improve that. I have always been a fan of Alpine electronics and a friend of mine is a rep for them so I get a lot of great products and assistance from him. I installed the following items:

Alpine KTA-200m mono amp
Alpine S-SB12V Halo Type-S 12" sub and sub box
Audio Control LC2i Pro line output convertor (LOC)
Relay for remote turn on for the amplifier

I chose that specific amp and convertor for a reason. Both of these are very small and are able to be hidden. Yes, there are more powerful amplifiers out there but this setup ended up being very loud and very clean sounding!

Let's start with power. The amplifier only requires a 10 gauge wire. The relay and line output converter just need primary wire such as 12-14 gauge. I ended up tapping into the distribution block to the right of the battery in the trunk with a 4 gauge power wire. That goes into a four way distribution block that all the power wires for the amp, LOC, and relay feed from.
distribution.jpg


Next was grabbing audio signal. The factory amplifier is behind the large rear panel on the drivers side. All of the output wires are twisted making them easy to find. The larger gauge wires are the subwoofer output wires. I ended up using the Blue/white wire as my positive and the white/black wire as the negative. These leads go to the passenger side OEM subwoofer. The line output converter only requires one channel worth of signal but you can do both left and right if you want. The driver's side sub wire is a purple/green positive and a green/yellow or green/black negative (I can't completely remember but I know the positive is correct and if you have that it is twisted with the correct negative wire!). Here is a pic of the OEM amp and location. It is the silver box with the striped cut outs and the ASD is the box to the right of it. Sorry, not the best pic.
oem amp.jpg


Next up is the remote wire. I originally purchased The LC2i Pro because it has a feature where when it senses audio, it creates a remote output wire to turn on your amp(s). Unfortunately, in this car it didn't work exactly as planned. The LOC would randomly power up without the car being on. I spoke with an audio control rep and they said the car most likely has mics in it, pick up sounds, and powers up something in the CAN network which trips the LOC on. (These are his words, not mine. I do not know if this is true). I didn't like the idea of potentially draining the battery so I ended up finding a switched wire behind the fuse box that is located on the passenger side of the trunk area.

fuse box.jpg

I used this video to help me remove the fuse box and find the wire I needed which ended up being a green/blue wire for the input wire into my relay:


Here is how I wired the relay:

87- Output to the LOC (this goes into the remote in port on the LC2i)
30- 12v constant (this went to my distribution block pictured earlier)
86- This goes to the green/blue wire that is from the fuse box
85- Ground

Here is a pic of the amp and LOC wired and mounted under the space where the panel is that people do the ports in to make the OEM subs sound better. It fits perfectly! I love how everything ended up being concealed for a clean look.
amp and loc.jpg


I do not like how I had to mount the LOC upside down but the RCAs from the Alpine amp wouldn't reach otherwise and I didn't want to use RCA extensions which could add noise, etc.

I also added an Alpine bass knob that plugs directly into the amplifier so I could better control the volume of the subwoofer from the driver's seat.

bass knob.jpg


Here is the trunk all put back together. Again, I love how nothing is seen as far as the amps, etc.
done with wire.jpg


And here is the final product with the sub box in the trunk. I don't use this car for grocery trips or anything so I could care less that I lost most of my trunk space. I can fit a few 12 packs in there and that is good for me!
complete.jpg


As a side note, I did unplug the ASD. When the car was running it would create a hum going through the Alpine sub that drove me nuts. It amplified the "exhaust" sounds too much and made everything sound muddy anyways. I also took the time to install some Noico black 80 mil sound deadening on the floor of the trunk, behind the rear panel, behind the taillights, etc. Pretty much anywhere I thought some noise would result from the subwoofer. There are a couple plastic rattles I need to address still but overall not bad considering how hard this sub hits.

Overall, I am super happy with how everything sounds and how the install turned out. Hopefully this helps anyone looking to add an aftermarket amp to their Supra.

Rob O.
I have dual 10” skar subs with a 2,000 watt amp. You wouldn’t happen to know if I’d need a new battery/alternator if I installed it would you?
 
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static63

static63

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I have dual 10” skar subs with a 2,000 watt amp. You wouldn’t happen to know if I’d need a new battery/alternator if I installed it would you?
I would do a capacitor at minimum. The battery is a good size AGM from the factory and to be honest, I am not sure on the alternator output on these cars. May be something to consider.
 

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