Toyota Supra Break In Period

How’d you break in?


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Turbro

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Most ever car comes with negative mileage on the odometer and they are driven at the factory for about 20 miles to get to a positive 2-10 miles on the odo. I’ve had many new turbo cars and always just drive them like I stole it and they have all been super reliable long term. I want the car to break into how I’m going to drive it, I’m not going to baby it. However I do believe it’s important to do the proper oil changes they recommend off the bat.
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SupraFiend

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I would hope thats what they do. The last set of directions are what you want to do if you just had a freshly built motor put in.
 

AHP

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After the initial heat cycles, once everything is up to operating temp you're good to drop the hammer. Break them in hard!
 

A70TTR

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I've researched this quite a bit and have asked our Technocraft/F guys what they think, and essentially after running the engine for a bit to bleed coolant and ensure no leaks, it's dyno time for WOT runs and then straight to the race track. You can look up the Formula Atlantic (TRD) engine break in procedures, and it's essentially just that.

Now, that's not for street cars, but when I asked if they would do a Supra or something similar any different for the street they said no.
 

a90_tay

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Anyone know what oil are in them from factory? I haven’t checked
 

AZupr490

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500 miles is a bit earlier.. Just did the first oil change @1500 miles. Oil still looked very clean, clear and contamination-free. Manual calls for 0w20 but I switched it over to 5w30Liquid moly special tech.. oil capacity 6.5 liters

96B01FAC-4963-4781-BDE9-8712C86427DF.jpeg
 

KCK455

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I drive it fairly tamely but even with revs up to 4000rpm it was a pretty nice 25km ride home with the car.

I’m undecided on whether to soft or hard break in I’ll do from here but following the manual recommendations hasn’t harmed my previous cars I think.
 

MA617M

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I've had the occasional trip the the redline but not very hard driving.

Curious ZuprA90 why you have changed from the oil specification?
 

kona61

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I drive it fairly tamely but even with revs up to 4000rpm it was a pretty nice 25km ride home with the car.

I’m undecided on whether to soft or hard break in I’ll do from here but following the manual recommendations hasn’t harmed my previous cars I think.
Eh, just go for it. I babied mine for 100-300 miles (honestly can't remember) and then I floored it. Nothing exciting happened other than I was suddenly going fast.
 

AZupr490

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I've had the occasional trip the the redline but not very hard driving.

Curious ZuprA90 why you have changed from the oil specification?
BMW calls for 5w30 on their engines. Since this is a BMW B58 engine, I decided to go with what bmw recommends. Toyota loves 0w20, don’t get me wrong 0w-20 is good oil, especially for cold start, turbo engines, fuel economy and maybe better for the environment but most importantly doesn’t protect from engine wear as efficiently as 5w-30. Photo of factory oil quality after 1500 miles.. doesn’t look too bad

image.jpg
 

thedude

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I always follow the manual. Germans expect people to follow instructions and they’re usually there for a reason. Remember it’s a German motor.

BMW was very vocal a while back saying it was important not to change the oil too soon. The first change is actually longer. Something about wearing in the parts.

My old N52 never burned an ounce of oil in the 11 years I owned it and I did the 1200 mile break in which was identical to the Supra manual.
 

MA617M

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I always follow the manual. Germans expect people to follow instructions and they’re usually there for a reason. Remember it’s a German motor.

BMW was very vocal a while back saying it was important not to change the oil too soon. The first change is actually longer. Something about wearing in the parts.

My old N52 never burned an ounce of oil in the 11 years I owned it and I did the 1200 mile break in which was identical to the Supra manual.

100%

I've never had any issues with any German cars - from 80s Benz to 2000s BMW - the specification is best followed.

Some food for thought - thicker oil providing more protection is a bit of an old train of thought. Heavier non-synthetics would usually have better resistance to thermal shear.

With the new range of full synthetics, thinner oils have the same or very similar thermal resistance to thicker oils.

A thinner oil will flow more (at a lower pressure) and therefore you gain cooling advantages in the engine at a loss of pressure.

My heuristic for oil pressure on standard internal engines is to run as thin as I can while keeping the pressure in mid-specification.

Anyway, that's my random notes :)
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