Clicking/Ticking noise coming from driver side.

Afterfire

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Ive been hearing this sound for about 3+ months but only recently started investigating by swapping parts around. Its only my drivers side front under cornering load. The rhythm is speed based and is a distinct click that sounds like either plastic on plastic or heavy metal with a very small amount of movement.

I noticed it after a track event where the brake pads backed out on track (its a long story but it COULD be a factor for the noise coming from brake rotors, but I dont remember if I heard it before the pad situation or not). Ive had the wheels off, brake pads off, put factory wheels back on and have a generic idea of where the sound potentially could be but not 100% specific until I can replicate it with the car in the air.

My initial suspects are rotor ring slightly separating from the hat or the strut hat bearing clicking like popularly complained about after lowering due to separation. The hat bearing is what I would normally bet on, but arent there people in here on stock suspension hearing the noise? Thats what makes me consider its the rotor hat separating. Im going to try turning, maintain speed with throttle and gently apply brakes to see if the noise lessens. If so then I know its brake component related.

Something that might help us figure out if we're all experiencing the same issue is to list what we have for mods on the affected wheel and confirm when/how we hear it.

Consistently hearing speed dependent plastic-y clicking on front left wheel only under load:
Stock brake pads daily, HKS springs, 275 Falken rt660's, 18x10 wheel, 10mm spacer, extended lug studs, SPL LCA/caster/endlinks, Eibach FSB, 0* toe, -2.6* camber, 8.1* caster

Clicking completely gone:
OEM wheels, no spacer, Michelin PSS, daily pads, extended lug studs, SPL LCA/caster/endlinks, Eibach FSB, HKS springs

Trying next:
OEM wheel, 10mm spacer
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0xBADC0FFE

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originally had the issue with the car completely stock. Still have the issue with full SPL suspension links and Cusco sway/power/strut bars, the rest is still stock.
 

Afterfire

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On the way home from work I tested to see if it was the rotor hats so I turned, caused the clicks, lightly pressed brake pedal till I felt drag while also lightly accelerating and no change in clicking pitch. I took pics of the behind the wheel while straight and also while slightly turned and didn't see anything out of the ordinary while static. I still want to say its those plastic top hat bearings but I just don't understand what those have to do with wheel speed or why it's happening to unmodified suspensions.
 

Zoopra

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Mine seems to be coming from the rear. It’s hard to say though. Definitely only sounds like driver’s side, but again, hard to say.

I notice it the most on long sweeping right turns. It’s odd that it seems to be a sudden onset, which leads me to believe something is broken or loose. I have a set of csg f/r brake pads going on hopefully within the next week. I’m gonna have my guy check everything out when I have those installed.

I’m on tein springs, advan gt’s w/r888r’s, and a stud conversion kit. No other suspension mods. I’m really praying it’s not an axle or the diff…I have a 1/2 mile event next month and dss axles are on backorder.
 

Afterfire

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originally had the issue with the car completely stock. Still have the issue with full SPL suspension links and Cusco sway/power/strut bars, the rest is still stock.
Sorry to be semantic but just reconfirming 100% stock, no spacers, wheel studs or extended wheel bolts? Car was new and suspension never taken down for anything? Just trying to find any common link.

Being 100% stock makes me give more weight to suspecting hubs, especially if people are hearing the clicking in the rear where theres no rotation of a strut.
 

0xBADC0FFE

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Sorry to be semantic but just reconfirming 100% stock, no spacers, wheel studs or extended wheel bolts? Car was new and suspension never taken down for anything? Just trying to find any common link.

Being 100% stock makes me give more weight to suspecting hubs, especially if people are hearing the clicking in the rear where theres no rotation of a strut.
100% stock when I first heard this issue. Absolutely no work had been done on the vehicle. I went to a couple dealerships but during COVID they would not do a ride along and, honestly, I doubt they are capable of helping.

This is only the front wheels for me. Only in turns and only in the weighted corner (outside wheel from the turn, ie left turn = sound from right wheel). Sounds like a baseball card in a bike wheel but much louder.

Over time the rate has increased so now instead of distinct clicks it sounds like running a serrated blade on metal quickly. It’s been about a year with this sound and there has been no noticeable effect on driving.
 

Afterfire

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This is going to be a really long post but I wanted to explain it all and hopefully it helps others. I found the source for me personally but it could help others in this thread to identify their clicks or chase it down through process of elimination.

I was debating to accuse the hub or brake rotor as what I'm going to try replacing so I figured I'd just start easy and work my way in to identify which one.
I took the wheel off and started pulling on the rotor in different sections to see if it wiggled or showed any play. At first it didn't, but as I worked my way around the rotor, I started to feel a fraction of a mm play. I kept spinning the rotor to see if one side does it more than the other, which it did. Its greatest flex was on the opposite side of the set screw. Seeing it in action, I'm thinking "duh stupid, of course it's going to feel a loose if the set screw isn't on that side." Using leverage on the opposite side of the set screw, I REPLICATED THE SOUND! Yes!

So now is it the hub/bearing moving? I could dive in further by taking the caliper off, but that sound was so burned in my brain I was sure I found the source. I took a video but by that time I'd wiggled it so much enjoying the sound of discovery that whatever fusion/anti seize between the hat and the hub eventually dissipated and it was just tapping with a full mm movement. You can hear it faintly 2 or 3 times when the background gets quiet.


Ive always noticed the corrosion on the stud threads but never had time to clean them so I removed, cleaned and scraped out any dirt, rust and debris in the hub threads and on the studs. I lightly wiped on a coat of brake fluid on the lug threads of the studs, a trick I picked up from a rep at Pagid which has kept my track cars studs impressively clean. Im kicking myself for not doing it on this car sooner. I reinstalled the studs, made sure they were torqued down appropriately and wiped down the face of the hat. I put the wheel on, made sure it sat 100% flat on the rotor hat face, drove one lug nut down to hold it, tightly ugga-dugga'd the other 4 nuts, let the car down till just slight friction between the tire and ground then torqued all the nuts in a star pattern to 103lbft before removing the jack. Drove spirited with zero clicks!

My theory is that because the hat is aluminum, it flexes a bit more than a full iron rotor and if the lugs aren't torqued down 100% flat to at least 103ftlbs, the wheel will leverage the rotor angle away from the hub slightly due to weight/camber slapping it back into place against the hub on the opposite side of the set screw, causing that clicking noise that is wheel speed and weight dependent. This might explain why a 100% stock vehicle can have it. Improper mounting procedure, torque specs or debris in the threads could cause this. Hopefully this helps others.
 

Zoopra

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This is going to be a really long post but I wanted to explain it all and hopefully it helps others. I found the source for me personally but it could help others in this thread to identify their clicks or chase it down through process of elimination.

I was debating to accuse the hub or brake rotor as what I'm going to try replacing so I figured I'd just start easy and work my way in to identify which one.
I took the wheel off and started pulling on the rotor in different sections to see if it wiggled or showed any play. At first it didn't, but as I worked my way around the rotor, I started to feel a fraction of a mm play. I kept spinning the rotor to see if one side does it more than the other, which it did. Its greatest flex was on the opposite side of the set screw. Seeing it in action, I'm thinking "duh stupid, of course it's going to feel a loose if the set screw isn't on that side." Using leverage on the opposite side of the set screw, I REPLICATED THE SOUND! Yes!

So now is it the hub/bearing moving? I could dive in further by taking the caliper off, but that sound was so burned in my brain I was sure I found the source. I took a video but by that time I'd wiggled it so much enjoying the sound of discovery that whatever fusion/anti seize between the hat and the hub eventually dissipated and it was just tapping with a full mm movement. You can hear it faintly 2 or 3 times when the background gets quiet.


Ive always noticed the corrosion on the stud threads but never had time to clean them so I removed, cleaned and scraped out any dirt, rust and debris in the hub threads and on the studs. I lightly wiped on a coat of brake fluid on the lug threads of the studs, a trick I picked up from a rep at Pagid which has kept my track cars studs impressively clean. Im kicking myself for not doing it on this car sooner. I reinstalled the studs, made sure they were torqued down appropriately and wiped down the face of the hat. I put the wheel on, made sure it sat 100% flat on the rotor hat face, drove one lug nut down to hold it, tightly ugga-dugga'd the other 4 nuts, let the car down till just slight friction between the tire and ground then torqued all the nuts in a star pattern to 103lbft before removing the jack. Drove spirited with zero clicks!

My theory is that because the hat is aluminum, it flexes a bit more than a full iron rotor and if the lugs aren't torqued down 100% flat to at least 103ftlbs, the wheel will leverage the rotor angle away from the hub slightly due to weight/camber slapping it back into place against the hub on the opposite side of the set screw, causing that clicking noise that is wheel speed and weight dependent. This might explain why a 100% stock vehicle can have it. Improper mounting procedure, torque specs or debris in the threads could cause this. Hopefully this helps others.
thanks for all the info! Assuming this was a front hub?
 

Zoopra

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My garage is in an alleyway. Today I noticed while idling along that the clicking was happening while going straight. The sound was resonating / echoing through the alleyway and was easy to hear. I kept driving for a bit and made a super low speed u turn and the tc kicked on, which was a first.

So I was thinking, maybe this is tc related? I did a few pulls with tc on once I went to a pure800 with PI. Obviously tc was going crazy during that time, but come to think of it I didn’t notice the sound until then. I tried turning tc off to see if that’d make a difference but it didn’t.
 

Zoopra

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Update:

I reluctantly brought the car to Toyota, as my go to bmw / zupra shop has been too busy to take a look at it. They acknowledged the sound but couldn’t narrow down what the cause was. They did say that while driving it sounds as if it’s coming from the rear, but they had a tech stand outside of the car while driving by / turning, and they confirmed it is actually coming from the front hub area.

I guess it makes me feel a little better knowing it’s the front (like everyone else) and not the rear. They said everything is within spec and is safe to continue driving. I read the bmw thread linked in a previous post and I plan on showing the tech tomorrow when I pick the car up.

Side note…My car is heavily modified and I fully expected to be paying a decent chunk of change to get this sorted at the dealer. Without typing a novel, they were very generous in attempting to make sure whatever the cause of the noise was would be covered by Toyota. I’ve heard many stories (which, to be fair are justified) of dealers being quick to blame part failures as being a result of *fill in the blank* modification. Toyota of Carlsbad was more than fair. Now if only the clicking would go away 😩.
 

Jree

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My clicking comes from accelerating, and it’s coming from the passenger side A pillar area.
 

0xBADC0FFE

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Got some all season tires and an alignment, noise is gone for now. Seems to be the same cycle each time: take off wheels, put wheels on, no noise for a while.

Maybe this is similar to the “rock in brake dust guard” issue. But I don’t see anything fall out when taking off the wheel… looking into new wheels and will see if anything changes then. If not ill look into using the spacer solution they use on BMWs.
 

Mk5phtm

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I’ve just installed swift springs, Motorsport hardware spacers and also their studs. I also had to realign the spring because it wasn’t fitting properly into the strut mount after initially installing them. I now hear a noise kinda like clicking but not sure what it is. I still need to get an alignment but I didn’t hear this sound until after readjusting the spring and dust boot and installing the studs. I hear it when I’m driving slow and only when I make right turns. I’m hoping I just need an alignment or that it’s just the studs and not something major
 
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Fudgebucket

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I’ve just installed swift springs, Motorsport hardware spacers and also their studs. I also had to realign the spring because it wasn’t fitting properly into the strut mount after initially installing them. I now hear a noise kinda like clicking but not sure what it is. I still need to get an alignment but I didn’t hear this sound until after readjusting the spring and dust boot and installing the studs. I hear it when I’m driving slow and only when I make right turns. I’m hoping I just need an alignment or that it’s just the studs and not something major
Ever get it figured out? Dealing with the same issue with my swift springs. Only makes a noise (sorta like a clicking) when I go full lock to the right, right before I hit the limit. My bearings were fine and didn’t separate on install. I have an appointment on the 10th to have a European performance car specialist shop take a look and do an alignment. Hope they can figure it out.
 
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