EPS & Safety System Failure

SpeedRacer

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I posted this in response to a semi-stale thread and decided to post it at the top as well to refresh & expand the topic (to include power steering).


Recently, my 2021 3.0 Premium had between 7 and 9 warning messages popping up every time It started and it would reduce power steering assist & the stopped locking the rear diff. Eventually the EPS (electric power steering) went out completely and I had to have it towed in for service.

The dealer claimed to clear the codes by flashing it with the latest software but they couldnā€™t get the EPS to communicate with the car and had to replace the EPS rack entirely.

They had it about a week and I just picked it up yesterday... it seems to be driving fine so far...Fingers crossed!

Anyone else have EPS issues or EPS combined with safety systems?

71D78E3B-1F0E-479D-8DCD-AF36905512B8.jpeg
8B552738-B189-4058-A860-622D17495827.jpeg


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toYoda

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I posted this in response to a semi-stale thread and decided to post it at the top as well to refresh & expand the topic (to include power steering).


Recently, my 2021 3.0 Premium had between 7 and 9 warning messages popping up every time It started and it would reduce power steering assist & the stopped locking the rear diff. Eventually the EPS (electric power steering) went out completely and I had to have it towed in for service.

The dealer claimed to clear the codes by flashing it with the latest software but they couldnā€™t get the EPS to communicate with the car and had to replace the EPS rack entirely.

They had it about a week and I just picked it up yesterday... it seems to be driving fine so far...Fingers crossed!

Anyone else have EPS issues or EPS combined with safety systems?

71D78E3B-1F0E-479D-8DCD-AF36905512B8.jpeg
8B552738-B189-4058-A860-622D17495827.jpeg


35B69C65-2B7D-42DB-A302-537C1C9D5AFC.jpeg
I have every code you have except increased steer effort but my steering wheel does feel like it has no power steering. Turned on car on Wednesday for first time in 21 days since had covid and greeted by fault codes.
 

Jay2004

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You should demand to have toyota Corp come to the dealership and run a full diagnostic of the car with you there.

The corp guys should see the problem, if the dealership says No, than threaten them with a lawyer and call toyota corp yourself. Don't sleep on it.
 

toYoda

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You should demand to have toyota Corp come to the dealership and run a full diagnostic of the car with you there.

The corp guys should see the problem, if the dealership says No, than threaten them with a lawyer and call toyota corp yourself. Don't sleep on it.
Yeah I tried on Monday already they claimed all codes are related to recently lowering the car according to tech, SA knows and I've shown proof I've had car lowered since late august but they're playing clueless and want to charge diagnosis plus repair fee for their findings. Ridiculous, I already called toyota usa waiting to hear back
 
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Kato

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Yeah I tried on Monday already they claimed all codes are related to recently lowering the car according to tech, SA knows and I've shown proof I've had car lowered since late august but they're playing clueless and want to charge diagnosis plus repair fee for their findings. Ridiculous, I already called toyota usa waiting to hear back
Gentlemen - I believe your batteries are low on juice. All the error messages you showed require battery power to operate properly. I had issue with battery 1 week after picking up mine. The message is "reduced functionality of the LSD" or something to that extent. Get those batteries charged up as soon as you can.

This vehicle uses a lot of battery power even when sitting. You MUST lock it to shut off all the peripheral electronics. Or depress the volume button for about 3 seconds. I learned this the hard way and am in the habit of locking the car after parking in the garage now.

The thread below is what happened to me.

https://www.supramkv.com/threads/dead-battery-a-real-pita.5751/
 

toYoda

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Gentlemen - I believe your batteries are low on juice. All the error messages you showed require battery power to operate properly. I had issue with battery 1 week after picking up mine. The message is "reduced functionality of the LSD" or something to that extent. Get those batteries charged up as soon as you can.

This vehicle uses a lot of battery power even when sitting. You MUST lock it to shut off all the peripheral electronics. Or depress the volume button for about 3 seconds. I learned this the hard way and am in the habit of locking the car after parking in the garage now.

The thread below is what happened to me.

https://www.supramkv.com/threads/dead-battery-a-real-pita.5751/
Don't know how long toyota usa will take to call me back so thank you for your comment, I'll check battery voltage tomorrow and see how it is. When I first purchased my car they told me it had defective battery and to come back next day for new one, they replaced bmw battery with a toyota one aswell. I'm hoping the battery is what's causing all these fault codes would be a relief if it's just low on juice.
 
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SpeedRacer

SpeedRacer

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Gentlemen - I believe your batteries are low on juice. All the error messages you showed require battery power to operate properly. I had issue with battery 1 week after picking up mine. The message is "reduced functionality of the LSD" or something to that extent. Get those batteries charged up as soon as you can.

This vehicle uses a lot of battery power even when sitting. You MUST lock it to shut off all the peripheral electronics. Or depress the volume button for about 3 seconds. I learned this the hard way and am in the habit of locking the car after parking in the garage now.

The thread below is what happened to me.

https://www.supramkv.com/threads/dead-battery-a-real-pita.5751/
Thanks for the info...I'll keep an eye on it, but pretty sure mine was something other than battery since I daily drive my Supra and lock it whenever its parked. It has been good since the dealer got it back to me 6 days ago!

For the person who lowered their car...maybe try another dealer? I'm lucky to have four within 20 miles. It seems like this has occurred with more than just my Supra so hoping you can get it resolved.
 

toYoda

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Thanks for the info...I'll keep an eye on it, but pretty sure mine was something other than battery since I daily drive my Supra and lock it whenever its parked. It has been good since the dealer got it back to me 6 days ago!

For the person who lowered their car...maybe try another dealer? I'm lucky to have four within 20 miles. It seems like this has occurred with more than just my Supra so hoping you can get it resolved.
Yeah unfortunately mine is not the battery, voltage is solid. I'm probably going to have to resort to trying different dealership a manager from toyota usa is suppose to call me tomorrow by 7pm where to take it.
 

toYoda

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Do not recommend Tustin toyota service department for all people in southern california steer clear! How can you in your right mind see 11 fault codes and point them all at car being lowered and deny to work on it without a nearly $900 charge. More than half are driver assistance package things malfunctioning or reduced
 

Dannyvandelft

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Do not recommend Tustin toyota service department for all people in southern california steer clear! How can you in your right mind see 11 fault codes and point them all at car being lowered and deny to work on it without a nearly $900 charge. More than half are driver assistance package things malfunctioning or reduced
Yup, some are like that. They'll say the stiffer ride damaged something, or the install did, or something to that nature. Suspension geometry is out of line, whichever. So they likely already flagged your car, so even if you took it somewhere else, you'll still get the bill.
Buy a battery tender and fully charge it over a few days, and see if it goes away.
 

Kato

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Yeah unfortunately mine is not the battery, voltage is solid. I'm probably going to have to resort to trying different dealership a manager from toyota usa is suppose to call me tomorrow by 7pm where to take it.
Not to belabor the point but battery voltage doesn't tell the whole story. Also not saying that it is DEFINITELY the battery. Mine was acting up with error messages on the LSD and driver assistance features when voltage showed 12.3V. I use my Radar Detector display to watch the vehicle's voltage. The charging system is managed by the computer. When it is new (as most 2019/20/21 Supras are), the computer doesn't activate the charging system often. Only when you're coasting (foot off gas pedal) does the charger get kicked in (voltage goes to 13 - 14V).

By the way, the "Toyota" battery they replaced in mine was made in Germany. LOL ... A few weeks later when I was in the process of installing the charger in the trunk and need to find a solid ground point, I noticed the main ground wire between the battery negative terminal and the car's chassis was not torqued tight (can be moved by fingers). I was amazed/disappointed but glad I found it. I hooked up my charger between battery + terminal and this ground point and re-torqued everything.

Here is the chronological order of my issues:
  1. Car was never locked in garage - battery drained in 1 week
  2. Got a jump and drove to dealer with error messages about LSD and driver assistance features the entire trip
  3. Battery replaced by dealer
  4. Still not locking car in garage (not everything is shut off)
  5. After 1 week, error message popped up again about LSD and driver assistance features
  6. Bought, installed charger and lock car when parked
  7. No error messages since - knock on wood!
 

toYoda

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Not to belabor the point but battery voltage doesn't tell the whole story. Also not saying that it is DEFINITELY the battery. Mine was acting up with error messages on the LSD and driver assistance features when voltage showed 12.3V. I use my Radar Detector display to watch the vehicle's voltage. The charging system is managed by the computer. When it is new (as most 2019/20/21 Supras are), the computer doesn't activate the charging system often. Only when you're coasting (foot off gas pedal) does the charger get kicked in (voltage goes to 13 - 14V).

By the way, the "Toyota" battery they replaced in mine was made in Germany. LOL ... A few weeks later when I was in the process of installing the charger in the trunk and need to find a solid ground point, I noticed the main ground wire between the battery negative terminal and the car's chassis was not torqued tight (can be moved by fingers). I was amazed/disappointed but glad I found it. I hooked up my charger between battery + terminal and this ground point and re-torqued everything.

Here is the chronological order of my issues:
  1. Car was never locked in garage - battery drained in 1 week
  2. Got a jump and drove to dealer with error messages about LSD and driver assistance features the entire trip
  3. Battery replaced by dealer
  4. Still not locking car in garage (not everything is shut off)
  5. After 1 week, error message popped up again about LSD and driver assistance features
  6. Bought, installed charger and lock car when parked
  7. No error messages since - knock on wood!
Jeez something is way wrong with my battery then my voltage when car is started is at 12v flat, haven't monitored when driving. Regardless the dealership Service director called me back this morning after I filed a report to Toyota Corporate and they said to bring it in Tuesday and they are going to do exactly what toyota tells them to do to be able to fix car. Since over phone he said service advisor will take notes when I leave car I'll let them know to check if my battery is drained again? Because when I bought car had bad battery and now if this one is bad terminal's maybe? Hopefully dealership can get my car right though this has been frustrating having so many malfunctions present. Thanks for your insight and suggestions I've noted them.
 

consultadrone

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I was amazed/disappointed but glad I found it. I hooked up my charger between battery + terminal and this ground point and re-torqued everything.
You maybe should NOT be hooking up a charger directly to the battery. It can cause lots of problems. You should be using the jump points under the hood.

Screen Shot 2020-12-21 at 8.07.39 AM.png
 

Kato

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Jeez something is way wrong with my battery then my voltage when car is started is at 12v flat ...
Sorry to alarm you. This is normal. Right after starting, the battery is somewhat drained. Mine shows 12.1V right after starting, and I disconnected the charger 5 minutes prior. I am curious as to what the diagnosis for your issues will be.
 

Kato

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You maybe should NOT be hooking up a charger directly to the battery. It can cause lots of problems. You should be using the jump points under the hood.

Screen Shot 2020-12-21 at 8.07.39 AM.png
@consultadrone - thanks for the tip. I think the caution is for people who connect charger directly between red/blk on their battery. Mine is connected between red and chassis. There is a big @ss wire from chassis to battery blk terminal, which should provide enough inductance to prevent high current spike and/or arcing. This is how CTEK recommended. Although I noted that (based on info above) they make a point to say to charge battery via the jumping points. Did you get this page from the shop manual?
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