Joe's build log

JoeDaMechanic

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Saint Petersburg FL
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2021 Supra 3.0, 1993 Mazda RX7
Figured after adding the Pure it was probably time to start one of these.

From the beginning, after looking around and finding out about the 2021's being locked I began my search for a tunable 2021.

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I found one in North Carolina. Flew up, and drove her back home to Florida.
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That's Davos, he approves of the Supra.

A few days later, I was at OSW to find out what she could do
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12.105 at 117.90 hurt some feelings, also went to Titan and picked up a downpipe, tune, and base line dyno
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400hp and 382 torque before dp and tune

Then I went to Bimmertech and had their MMI Prime installed to get Android Auto, I later went back and got their Alpha One speakers as well.
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To be continued
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JoeDaMechanic

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First Name
Joe
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Location
Saint Petersburg FL
Car(s)
2021 Supra 3.0, 1993 Mazda RX7
Got some ceramic tint all the way around.
Installed the downpipe and an OTS tune from Titan, put in a mix of E30 and went to see what she would do.
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Got down to an 11.783 at 119.11
Stock tires, launching in 1st - in Sport+
Probably should of set it down to normal for suspension and tried 2nd, on street tires still.

Then this weekend, picked up some HKS Springs, and Verus camber plates, and Pure 850 came in
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Changing out the springs was relatively straightforward, but definitely nerve-wracking while trying to pull the strut out without removing it from the car. If I had to do it again definitely would have just went with a spring compressor. Installing the Verus camber plates is definitely a two-person job. Not so much for the difficulty of installation, but just so you can have someone guiding it into the right position while someone else adjusts and jacks the suspension up.

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Turbo disassembly, pretty straight forward. I just went ahead and removed the downpipe while I was at it since that's easy to add and it gave so much more room to access the T30 bolts for the lines underneath. Coolant everywhere not so much from the front line, but the bottom rear line. I tried putting a funnel up, but the angle I had the car at just had it dripping all over itself. Probably worth it to jack up the rear to avoid that.

Didn't need to remove the bottom brace on the exhaust, just pulled up and out.

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Just a bit larger on the exhaust side :)
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PITA part of putting the new turbo back in... definitely make sure the bottom is seated in the bracket for all three sections. The support bracket was easy enough to access all three bolts with the downpipe out of the way. Would definitely recommend leaving the single bolt very loose to get it lined up properly. Reinstall otherwise very straightforward. Put the rest back together, fill up the coolant reservoir, bleed the coolant - (3x fast start no brake to get into diagnostic, temp on max, fan on low, hold the gas for 15 seconds) that'll start the electric pump, let it go for a bit, then start the car let it heat up. Top off and repeat as necessary, used up slightly over a gallon.

Need to install a Flex-fuel kit and get a tune for the new turbo.
Also waiting on AFE sway bars that were supposed to be here Saturday but are delayed until today. Rear sway bar and dropping the subframe should be fun, then alignment as well.

If I get done in time, Autocross this weekend at Daytona and then quarter-mile sometime later.

Really need wheels and tires for both, but probably shooting for some Titan 7's T-5s 18x10.7
Have to wait for the drag radials for some axles, and I have to decide what's next, Port, transmission, or axles, or go for aero... decisions decisions. Leaning towards the Titan 7's, then WMI just for cooling, then transmission.
 
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JoeDaMechanic

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Saint Petersburg FL
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2021 Supra 3.0, 1993 Mazda RX7
Installed AFE sway bars. Dropping the rear subframe was fun but not anywhere near as bad as it sounds. Now off to the dyno for a tune.
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Jackyl tm

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A91 Edition, C230, Mazda Protege
Enjoying the build man! You have any details on how to do the rear sway bar? I have them here, just dreading the install 🤣
 
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JoeDaMechanic

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Enjoying the build man! You have any details on how to do the rear sway bar? I have them here, just dreading the install 🤣
I did HKS springs at the same time, so it felt like I had a lot more room. The AFE directions are great, they just want you to remove so much useless stuff... exhaust up to the down pipe and all the under panels.

Jacked the car up put it on stands, I only removed the 2 rear sets of under panels. 4 removed, just loosened the other 2 enough to get the brace out.

Then I undid as many of the lines as possible, height sensor, suspension, diff, ground wire, and brake lines. Just enough to get them loose. I just took the rear exhaust hangers out and used wire coat hanger to support the exhaust instead of removing it. And then took out the shocks and springs.

Supported diff with a jack and blocks. Undid the subframe bolts, then double checked lines and lowered it a smidge. Undid sway bar links and mounts. These are a pain depending on how skinny your arms are, you may need to lower more.

Then I cursed a lot as I went from side to side trying to angle the old one out. Second pair of hands would definitely help. Remember how you get the old one out and try to follow the same procedure in reverse to get the new one in. More cursing, if it's too hard check to see if you can lower the sub frame any more.

Back together is more fun... jack the diff back up, put bolts in loosely to line it up. You may have to guide the subframe into the notches while jacking it back up. Put the main torx bolts in first. Once they're all in torque to spec. Put shocks in before springs if you removed them. Then use a jack and wood block under where the shock goes to line up the hole for the torx bolt. I usually put a smaller bolt on the back side to line up both ends. Then wiggle it to wrestle the bolt in if it's being a jerk. For the shock, I just put the bottom bolt in first then did the tops... use jack for height. I used the jack for preload. Torque everything, reconnect, double check height sensor is installed correctly.

By myself on jack stands with the shocks, the rear took about six hours including jacking the car up etc. Definitely set aside time or have it where you can tackle it in multiple sessions if need be. If you have any specific questions feel free to ask.
 

Jackyl tm

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Awesome thanks!! My buddy has a lift so will probably do that to hopefully help out! Have to adjust the exhaust a bit anyhow, so may bite the bullet and do this. I bought the Cusco brand. Hopefully they have good instructions too! Haha haven't unwrapped the rear yet!
 
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JoeDaMechanic

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So initial thoughts on 850 without Port and without transmission upgrades.

There's definitely a wee bit of turbo lag.
Disclaimers: I definitely need to get an alignment done and after lowering the car, and sway bars, I have no doubt it's a bit stiffer and has a bit more negative camber in the rear. So probably less than ideal contact patch and weight transfer for launches.

After the turbo finally spools up, it definitely goes. If I had to describe the experience it would be, the car used to launch a lot harder and be fighting for traction lower in the rpm range and was very responsive before. Of course, towards the top end it would just sort of run out of steam.
Now, you definitely have to downshift into the right gear and give it a moment to compose its thoughts. However, once it's decided it's ready to go... boy does it ever. It is now fighting for traction at a much higher speed when the turbo finally kicks in. You can also see that it wants to keep pulling, but it's been limited to protect the transmission at this point. Those 275's are just tortured, after the transmission upgrade they'll just be woefully inadequate.

The exhaust is now a fair bit quieter, I was happy with where it was before, but now I will probably have to pick an exhaust just to wake it back up. I'm thinking Tomei single exit. But I do get all kinds of fun spinny noises now, so it's not all bad.

Now for more concrete data.
Took it to the 1/8 mile track down the road just to practice launches and see how it's doing.
Will try to get to the 1/4 soon.
Old 1/8 mile time was 7.652 at 92.60 with a 1.869 60 ft, 1/4 at 11.783 at 119.11
Different track, and worse launch so take it for what its worth
60ft up to 2.0295 - still trying to find a good launch on this car to get the turbo spooled somewhat without just losing all traction (on stock tires still)
7.8297 at 98.79

So realistically, if I can get my 60ft back to where it was it's just about as fast as when it was DP and E30 in the 1/8th time-wise, but mph wise it's going 6mph faster. With slicks and being able to spool up the turbo, I think it'll be a non-issue.


For the Autocross at Daytona, no alignment yet. I ran the front bar on medium and the rear bar at the softest. Left the camber plates where they were, but with the lowering and the camber plate, they definitely have a good deal of negative camber up front. Great front grip, and the balance was very neutral with the rear stepping out ever so slightly on power. Nothing too competitive still learning the car, getting back into Autocross, stock tires, no alignment, the sun was in my eyes...
Started off slow and just kept pushing a bit harder each run started at 52s, went down to 50s, 49s, 48s. Top times in class were at 45s, XSA is no joke, but I think with some tires, brakes, and more seat time the car can be competitive.

I also had the fun of working the corner when a C7 Z06's brakes failed and he went into a tire wall.

Now enough talking... pictures
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zrk

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2021 Supra - Nocturnal Black
So initial thoughts on 850 without Port and without transmission upgrades.

There's definitely a wee bit of turbo lag.
Disclaimers: I definitely need to get an alignment done and after lowering the car, and sway bars, I have no doubt it's a bit stiffer and has a bit more negative camber in the rear. So probably less than ideal contact patch and weight transfer for launches.

After the turbo finally spools up, it definitely goes. If I had to describe the experience it would be, the car used to launch a lot harder and be fighting for traction lower in the rpm range and was very responsive before. Of course, towards the top end it would just sort of run out of steam.
Now, you definitely have to downshift into the right gear and give it a moment to compose its thoughts. However, once it's decided it's ready to go... boy does it ever. It is now fighting for traction at a much higher speed when the turbo finally kicks in. You can also see that it wants to keep pulling, but it's been limited to protect the transmission at this point. Those 275's are just tortured, after the transmission upgrade they'll just be woefully inadequate.

The exhaust is now a fair bit quieter, I was happy with where it was before, but now I will probably have to pick an exhaust just to wake it back up. I'm thinking Tomei single exit. But I do get all kinds of fun spinny noises now, so it's not all bad.

Now for more concrete data.
Took it to the 1/8 mile track down the road just to practice launches and see how it's doing.
Will try to get to the 1/4 soon.
Old 1/8 mile time was 7.652 at 92.60 with a 1.869 60 ft, 1/4 at 11.783 at 119.11
Different track, and worse launch so take it for what its worth
60ft up to 2.0295 - still trying to find a good launch on this car to get the turbo spooled somewhat without just losing all traction (on stock tires still)
7.8297 at 98.79

So realistically, if I can get my 60ft back to where it was it's just about as fast as when it was DP and E30 in the 1/8th time-wise, but mph wise it's going 6mph faster. With slicks and being able to spool up the turbo, I think it'll be a non-issue.


For the Autocross at Daytona, no alignment yet. I ran the front bar on medium and the rear bar at the softest. Left the camber plates where they were, but with the lowering and the camber plate, they definitely have a good deal of negative camber up front. Great front grip, and the balance was very neutral with the rear stepping out ever so slightly on power. Nothing too competitive still learning the car, getting back into Autocross, stock tires, no alignment, the sun was in my eyes...
Started off slow and just kept pushing a bit harder each run started at 52s, went down to 50s, 49s, 48s. Top times in class were at 45s, XSA is no joke, but I think with some tires, brakes, and more seat time the car can be competitive.

I also had the fun of working the corner when a C7 Z06's brakes failed and he went into a tire wall.

Now enough talking... pictures
full-image (2).jpg


full-image (5).jpg


full-image (3).jpg
Any tune at all, or just dropped in the spooly boi?
 
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JoeDaMechanic

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First Name
Joe
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Location
Saint Petersburg FL
Car(s)
2021 Supra 3.0, 1993 Mazda RX7
Any tune at all, or just dropped in the spooly boi?
Tuned with Ecutek by Titan, running a Visconti flex fuel with an E30 blend, still on stock fueling.
Torque target set lower to keep the trans safe, you can see on the dyno it just wants to shoot way past that though, and just plateaus off instead. The 2 port would probably be a lot more responsive with the 850 than the lower compression on the 6port. I'll see how well it goes after the trans upgrade next year with axles and slicks. May end up bumping the compression later if I hate it enough by then.
 
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JoeDaMechanic

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First Name
Joe
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89
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Location
Saint Petersburg FL
Car(s)
2021 Supra 3.0, 1993 Mazda RX7
20210930_230523.jpg

Almost .2 quicker in the 1/4 with a shit 60ft and 7mph faster. I need axles and tires.
 

zrk

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Zack
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2021 Supra - Nocturnal Black
20210930_230523.jpg

Almost .2 quicker in the 1/4 with a shit 60ft and 7mph faster. I need axles and tires.
2.0 60' is gnarly. You can get that down quite a bit and shave quite a bit of time off your quarter.
 
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