Looking for reliable power build advice

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I'm getting ready to start performance upgrades on my 3/20 build Supra, presumed unlockable.
I have not done performance upgrades before, so I'm trying to avoid mistakes in assumptions and purchases. I'm hoping to work with an appropriate tuner that can give me some guidance (and maybe install depending on complexity and location).

The long term goal is to have >500-550 whp daily driver build that is very reliable since this is a long term ownership car. I'm not drag/roll/street racing, competing, or putting in laps on a track. Most of my miles are plain highway driving and occasional weekend twisty roads, but I would like more power to play with when the need arises.

Desired Ecutek selectable tunes:
Pump 93 containing up to 10% ethanol every day good (not max) power tune
Pump 93 show-off big power, but rarely used tune. 600?
90 octane/zero ethanol (I can supply tears of sadness with the low quality gas)

What questions do I need to answer? Budget is flexible, especially if staged. I have a MST intake on now, but otherwise stock. I was planning on getting a DS-1 catted downpipe, then getting an initial tune. I'm OK with turbo/intake manifold/WMI/PI/etc (transmission stage 0?) upgrades if they will improve long term reliability for the power targets and don't cause other hassles (like issues with running out of methanol, etc).

I also don't mind the "pay to play" angle of all this, but I don't know what the common failure modes are or what are the typical costs to fix. If it's a few thousand, like an unlucky blown turbo, then fine, but if there's a good chance of a $15K+ issue inside of 50000 miles, I might want to rethink my plans.
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Zupra1776

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From all the research I've done flex fuel, DP, pro tune is the answer, but the dependency there is that you have flex fuel in abundance.
 
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Yeah, the downpipe then an initial tune is the first phase. Then I figure the turbo and whatever supporting mods would be done over the winter when I'm not driving the car. It's after the turbo that it's not clear what to do.

Since 90 and literally zero ethanol is the long term limiting factor, that's what I'm trying to figure out what can be done to make a reliable 500 on it. 93 is just bonus territory and for fun right now. The feel I get is if the build supports 600 max on 90, then I almost always drive 500 output on 90, the reliability will be improved. 93 on the same numbers would be less stress, right?

If WMI is necessary to compensate for lack of ethanol or for other reliability reasons, how much does that affect the daily driving? In other words, can my tuner adjust things so that the daily drive map only bothers with the methanol if I go over 50% throttle? It just seems a waste to have it injecting when all I'm doing is cruising at 60 down a two lane highway. If I'm playing on deserted back roads, inject all the WMI :)
 

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Yeah, the downpipe then an initial tune is the first phase. Then I figure the turbo and whatever supporting mods would be done over the winter when I'm not driving the car. It's after the turbo that it's not clear what to do.

Since 90 and literally zero ethanol is the long term limiting factor, that's what I'm trying to figure out what can be done to make a reliable 500 on it. 93 is just bonus territory and for fun right now. The feel I get is if the build supports 600 max on 90, then I almost always drive 500 output on 90, the reliability will be improved. 93 on the same numbers would be less stress, right?

If WMI is necessary to compensate for lack of ethanol or for other reliability reasons, how much does that affect the daily driving? In other words, can my tuner adjust things so that the daily drive map only bothers with the methanol if I go over 50% throttle? It just seems a waste to have it injecting when all I'm doing is cruising at 60 down a two lane highway. If I'm playing on deserted back roads, inject all the WMI :)
If you are wanting to get to 600whp, skip the meth. Port Injection and the Reflex controller will support 600+ on whatever fuel you desire.
 
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If you are wanting to get to 600whp, skip the meth. Port Injection and the Reflex controller will support 600+ on whatever fuel you desire.
That has my interest. I was thinking of waiting for the cheaper version of the CSF intake manifold to retain PI and WMI options. If Methanol isn't needed, would a PI plate work just as well? Since I'm not racing, maybe the intake manifold upgrade isn't necessary? Or is that still a good idea on an upgraded turbo?

The running theme here is I don't mind spending some money now to improve long term reliability. The car is at 10K miles and I'm finally used to the current power level after a year of ownership.
 

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That has my interest. I was thinking of waiting for the cheaper version of the CSF intake manifold to retain PI and WMI options. If Methanol isn't needed, would a PI plate work just as well? Since I'm not racing, maybe the intake manifold upgrade isn't necessary? Or is that still a good idea on an upgraded turbo?

The running theme here is I don't mind spending some money now to improve long term reliability. The car is at 10K miles and I'm finally used to the current power level after a year of ownership.
I wouldnt feel confident in using the Meth to help with fueling, which is why i mentioned port injection. I do like the replacement intake manifold options, but it costs just the same as the pure upgrade and the EOS Port injection kit combined. IMO Pure + port injection w/reflex would be the reliable way to get 600+ on pump gas.
 

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@black_sedan seems to have it covered so I'll just share what I pan to do/continue on my build for a reliable 600whp+ build. You should be able to get 500-550whp with a similar setup on 93.

EcuTek Custom E53 Tune (@MarinTuned )
AMS Alpha 8 Street Turbo Kit
AMS Intake Manifold
AMS Heat Exchanger
Stock Charge Pipe
Visconti Flex Fuel Kit
Visconti Sequential Port Injection Kit
Visconti Fuel System Upgrade
Injectors size (?), will consult with tuner
HKS Hi-Power CBE
Pure Drivetrain Solutions Stage 1
Stock Axles
Nitto NT555 G2 265/35/19 Nitto NT555Rll 285/35/19
 
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I’ve mentioned this before, anything past 450whp is a waste of power without traction upgrades. Its way too easy to spin the stock 275s.

Aside from that a downpipe, intake and 93 tune can get you pretty close to 500/500 and be reliable.

-RJM
 
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"450whp is a waste of power without traction upgrades"
I'm doing my best to get the tires worn down so I can replace them :) I like the stock wheels, so I've been assuming I'd go towards the 295 end, or whatever the max is on stock wheels/suspension.

I think I've got enough to go on for now. Thank you everyone for the input so far.

Who are the go-to tuners in the Northeast if I end up wanting to have them do installs as well? I don't drive the Supra when temps hit freezing, so taking it somewhere and dropping it off for a month during winter shoulder season wouldn't be a big deal.
 

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"450whp is a waste of power without traction upgrades"
I'm doing my best to get the tires worn down so I can replace them :) I like the stock wheels, so I've been assuming I'd go towards the 295 end, or whatever the max is on stock wheels/suspension.

I think I've got enough to go on for now. Thank you everyone for the input so far.

Who are the go-to tuners in the Northeast if I end up wanting to have them do installs as well? I don't drive the Supra when temps hit freezing, so taking it somewhere and dropping it off for a month during winter shoulder season wouldn't be a big deal.
One last thing no one's hit on. You might wanna just do all the cooling stuff while you're in there. Moshimoto or similar radiators, oil coolers, and all of that. It's like a grand or two to really upgrade it all. Since you're looking for reliability -- I would.
 

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One last thing no one's hit on. You might wanna just do all the cooling stuff while you're in there. Moshimoto or similar radiators, oil coolers, and all of that. It's like a grand or two to really upgrade it all. Since you're looking for reliability -- I would.
Whaat. My post mentioned some cooling stuff.

https://www.supramkv.com/threads/looking-for-reliable-power-build-advice.10670/post-153739

Also what you're referring to is more longevity vs reliability. Reliability goes down as less oem parts are remaining.
 

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