B58_ hwAyaq
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This isn't a full DIY, but rather a collection of notes I made from my install.
This lip is not as straightforward as some of the 3M and/or self tapping screw solutions, but it is not overly difficult either. Let me save you some of the headache.
Consider ordering from the UK site
I actually purchased this lip from the UK site. With shipping and the exchange rate, it was less than $300 USD and less than just ordering it from the US site. The reason I purchased from the UK site was the estimated delivery time from the US site was longer, and I've heard reports that the UK site orders can end up in US customers hands faster than waiting for a backordered item from the US site. I think this was true for me as the US site had a ~2 month backorder window, and I received it from the UK site in ~3 weeks.
If ordering from the UK site, be sure to use a credit card that does not charge foreign transaction fees.
Front lip link (UK): https://www.maxtondesign.co.uk/body...k5/street-pro-front-splitter-toyota-supra-mk5
Front lip link (US): https://maxtondesignusa.net/products/street-pro-front-splitter-toyota-supra-mk5
Bumper needs to come off the car
I don't see how this lip can be installed with the bumper given given where it needs to be drilled. There are lots of videos on how to remove the front bumper. I opted to disconnect the battery since the parking sensors need to be disconnected, and I was upgrading the horn (https://www.supramkv.com/threads/replacing-horn-with-piaa-sports-horn.10997/post-202047) which is what prompted the bumper removal in the first place.
There are 6 10mm bolts across the top, two 8mm bolts on each side by the fender, three 8mm bolts on each of the wheel wells, one parking sensor connector on each side, 12 8mm bolts across the bottom engine cover connected to the bumper, and another 9 8mm bolts holding the back of the bottom engine cover. I found reinstallation much easier by taking the entire bottom engine cover off and reinstalling it last.
Notes on drilling and bolts
Need to cut bottom engine cover and bolts to reinstall bumper
I had an incredibly frustrating time reinstalling the bumper. Something kept getting caught. After a while, I took off the whole bottom engine cover and started identifying what was blocking the bumper.
Bumper Reinstall
Once the bottom engine cover and the bolts were cut for clearance, the bumper went back on fine. I suggest:
Things that broke/don't line up
This lip is not as straightforward as some of the 3M and/or self tapping screw solutions, but it is not overly difficult either. Let me save you some of the headache.
Consider ordering from the UK site
I actually purchased this lip from the UK site. With shipping and the exchange rate, it was less than $300 USD and less than just ordering it from the US site. The reason I purchased from the UK site was the estimated delivery time from the US site was longer, and I've heard reports that the UK site orders can end up in US customers hands faster than waiting for a backordered item from the US site. I think this was true for me as the US site had a ~2 month backorder window, and I received it from the UK site in ~3 weeks.
If ordering from the UK site, be sure to use a credit card that does not charge foreign transaction fees.
Front lip link (UK): https://www.maxtondesign.co.uk/body...k5/street-pro-front-splitter-toyota-supra-mk5
Front lip link (US): https://maxtondesignusa.net/products/street-pro-front-splitter-toyota-supra-mk5
Bumper needs to come off the car
I don't see how this lip can be installed with the bumper given given where it needs to be drilled. There are lots of videos on how to remove the front bumper. I opted to disconnect the battery since the parking sensors need to be disconnected, and I was upgrading the horn (https://www.supramkv.com/threads/replacing-horn-with-piaa-sports-horn.10997/post-202047) which is what prompted the bumper removal in the first place.
There are 6 10mm bolts across the top, two 8mm bolts on each side by the fender, three 8mm bolts on each of the wheel wells, one parking sensor connector on each side, 12 8mm bolts across the bottom engine cover connected to the bumper, and another 9 8mm bolts holding the back of the bottom engine cover. I found reinstallation much easier by taking the entire bottom engine cover off and reinstalling it last.
Notes on drilling and bolts
- I started by aligning the bumper and lip and drilling out the two holes on the end.
- The front two bolts come pretty close to the front of the bumper. The front main grill needs to be popped out (just clips) to drill the holes and getting the nuts on those bolts is difficult. There is little space to work with and a few spots where you can lose a nut or washer in the bumper. I added some tape to prevent losing the nut or washer and I was unable to secure that bolt with a washer+nut. I just used a nut. Each riser is secure by two bolts, so I'm comfortable it will hold, but just something to note if you want to be as prepared as possible.
Need to cut bottom engine cover and bolts to reinstall bumper
I had an incredibly frustrating time reinstalling the bumper. Something kept getting caught. After a while, I took off the whole bottom engine cover and started identifying what was blocking the bumper.
- Some of the bolts were blocking the bottom engine cover. I just cut the bottom engine cover to give clearance.
- The rear bolts of the front two risers were hitting the metal crash bar. I cut the excess from these bolts with a bolt cutter. I actually cut all four front ones (not the two under the grill, just the ones near the bottom engine cover) to be sure there was clearance.
Bumper Reinstall
Once the bottom engine cover and the bolts were cut for clearance, the bumper went back on fine. I suggest:
- Reinstalling the front bumper and loosely placing bolts on
- Reinstalling the bottom engine cover and loosely place bolts on
- Position bumper and tighten most top bolts and both fender bolts on each side.
- Close hood to see if the panel gaps are good. (Repeat steps 3 and 4, as needed)
- Once bumper is positioned well, fully tighten all top and fender bolts.
- Fully tighten wheel well bolts
- Fully tighten rear bottom engine cover bolts
- Fully tighten front bottom engine cover bolts
Things that broke/don't line up
- One of the rear bolts (supplied by Maxton Design) for an outside riser broke (pictured above in the bolt cutter photo). Maybe I tightened it too much. Each riser is secured by two bolts, and I feel the front one is more crucial. I tugged on it, and I'm comfortable running just one on that riser. Just FYI in case you want to grab some extra hardware before tackling this.
- Most OEM bottom engine cover bolts are accessible once the lip is installed. I only had one become inaccessible to me (#2 of 12 if counting from left to right). I was able to secure that bolt to the engine cover, just not both the lip and engine cover, so at least it's there if I ever go back to stock. There are 11 of 12 bolts down there securing the bottom engine cover, so I'm not worried about it.
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