Maxton STREET PRO Front Splitter - Install Notes

B58_ hwAyaq

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This isn't a full DIY, but rather a collection of notes I made from my install.

This lip is not as straightforward as some of the 3M and/or self tapping screw solutions, but it is not overly difficult either. Let me save you some of the headache.

Consider ordering from the UK site
I actually purchased this lip from the UK site. With shipping and the exchange rate, it was less than $300 USD and less than just ordering it from the US site. The reason I purchased from the UK site was the estimated delivery time from the US site was longer, and I've heard reports that the UK site orders can end up in US customers hands faster than waiting for a backordered item from the US site. I think this was true for me as the US site had a ~2 month backorder window, and I received it from the UK site in ~3 weeks.

If ordering from the UK site, be sure to use a credit card that does not charge foreign transaction fees.

Front lip link (UK): https://www.maxtondesign.co.uk/body...k5/street-pro-front-splitter-toyota-supra-mk5
Front lip link (US): https://maxtondesignusa.net/products/street-pro-front-splitter-toyota-supra-mk5

Bumper needs to come off the car
I don't see how this lip can be installed with the bumper given given where it needs to be drilled. There are lots of videos on how to remove the front bumper. I opted to disconnect the battery since the parking sensors need to be disconnected, and I was upgrading the horn (https://www.supramkv.com/threads/replacing-horn-with-piaa-sports-horn.10997/post-202047) which is what prompted the bumper removal in the first place.

There are 6 10mm bolts across the top, two 8mm bolts on each side by the fender, three 8mm bolts on each of the wheel wells, one parking sensor connector on each side, 12 8mm bolts across the bottom engine cover connected to the bumper, and another 9 8mm bolts holding the back of the bottom engine cover. I found reinstallation much easier by taking the entire bottom engine cover off and reinstalling it last.

Notes on drilling and bolts
  • I started by aligning the bumper and lip and drilling out the two holes on the end.
tempImageQw2pCG.png

tempImagepCzxtz.png

  • The front two bolts come pretty close to the front of the bumper. The front main grill needs to be popped out (just clips) to drill the holes and getting the nuts on those bolts is difficult. There is little space to work with and a few spots where you can lose a nut or washer in the bumper. I added some tape to prevent losing the nut or washer and I was unable to secure that bolt with a washer+nut. I just used a nut. Each riser is secure by two bolts, so I'm comfortable it will hold, but just something to note if you want to be as prepared as possible.
tempImage15He8M.png


Need to cut bottom engine cover and bolts to reinstall bumper
I had an incredibly frustrating time reinstalling the bumper. Something kept getting caught. After a while, I took off the whole bottom engine cover and started identifying what was blocking the bumper.
  • Some of the bolts were blocking the bottom engine cover. I just cut the bottom engine cover to give clearance.
tempImagedINJ02.png

tempImage5hyQZP.png

  • The rear bolts of the front two risers were hitting the metal crash bar. I cut the excess from these bolts with a bolt cutter. I actually cut all four front ones (not the two under the grill, just the ones near the bottom engine cover) to be sure there was clearance.
tempImageEtn1dD.png

tempImageE7vbhx.png

tempImageghhxwK.png


Bumper Reinstall
Once the bottom engine cover and the bolts were cut for clearance, the bumper went back on fine. I suggest:
  1. Reinstalling the front bumper and loosely placing bolts on
  2. Reinstalling the bottom engine cover and loosely place bolts on
  3. Position bumper and tighten most top bolts and both fender bolts on each side.
  4. Close hood to see if the panel gaps are good. (Repeat steps 3 and 4, as needed)
  5. Once bumper is positioned well, fully tighten all top and fender bolts.
  6. Fully tighten wheel well bolts
  7. Fully tighten rear bottom engine cover bolts
  8. Fully tighten front bottom engine cover bolts
I had to jack the car up on just one side to make access easier. Used a regular jack and a ZL1 jack pad. Don't stick your head under the car if just using a jack like this in case the jack fails.

Things that broke/don't line up
  • One of the rear bolts (supplied by Maxton Design) for an outside riser broke (pictured above in the bolt cutter photo). Maybe I tightened it too much. Each riser is secured by two bolts, and I feel the front one is more crucial. I tugged on it, and I'm comfortable running just one on that riser. Just FYI in case you want to grab some extra hardware before tackling this.
  • Most OEM bottom engine cover bolts are accessible once the lip is installed. I only had one become inaccessible to me (#2 of 12 if counting from left to right). I was able to secure that bolt to the engine cover, just not both the lip and engine cover, so at least it's there if I ever go back to stock. There are 11 of 12 bolts down there securing the bottom engine cover, so I'm not worried about it.
COMPLETE
tempImageAFNDmk.png

tempImage2sHBVy.png
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Last edited:

Thepaulsurfer1

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Splitter looks great! I just got mine delivered including side skirts today. Website said an installation manual was included but I didnā€™t get one.. by chance did yours come with one? Are you planning on adding skirts as well?

Mine will be going on next weekend, Thanks for the diy/tips!

paul
 
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B58_ hwAyaq

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Splitter looks great! I just got mine delivered including side skirts today. Website said an installation manual was included but I didnā€™t get one.. by chance did yours come with one? Are you planning on adding skirts as well?

Mine will be going on next weekend, Thanks for the diy/tips!

paul
Thank you! I really like the look of this lip, especially for the price.

Yes, the website says an instruction manual is included, but mine did not come with one. Furthermore, I contacted Maxton Design, and they confirmed they do not actually have an install manual for this lip. I was advised to check YouTube to see if anyone else shared install tipsā€¦

Which is another reason I shared the info in this thread. Thereā€™s nothing out there on this lip.

Iā€™m stock height with no plans on lowering at this time. Iā€™m not sure how side skirts will look on a stock height car, so I have no plans on adding them for now.

Good luck with the install! Report back and add any more tips you come across.
 

thirdlobe

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Thanks for sharing, this is also the first pictures I can find of the lip installed on a Supra other than the Maxton site.

I just ordered mine from the US Maxton site yesterday. They said they had one left.
 

Thepaulsurfer1

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Ok. So.. being a moderately capable man with a large set of tools, this project was a PITA at times. Specifically, getting the bumper back on.

OP recommendations are spot on and saved me time. In my experience, leave 95% of bolts semi tight as that helped get the bumper back on. Save the under tray for last.

I broke two splash shield screws and over torque a side guide mount for getting the bumper spot on with gaps resulting in a trip to Toyota and BMW. Whatever.

side skirts for another day, but should be a piece of cake. Overall, looks pretty great IMO, stock ride height for reference.

02AD57CA-5ADE-4FD3-85B4-23815F406ED3.jpeg
948AC876-EA9C-40A5-A7D4-E308CA675E53.jpeg
 
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B58_ hwAyaq

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Overall, looks pretty great IMO, stock ride height for reference.
Happy to have helped a bit - looks great! Itā€™s nice to see this lip on cars that donā€™t have a blacked out bumper like the maxton site.

Did you remove the maxton logo? I thought about it but wasnā€™t sure if there was any indent or other considerations or if it was just a sticker.
 

Thepaulsurfer1

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Just an update, couple scratches here and thereā€¦ easy patch/sand with black ABS cement. Side skirts installed as well on stock height. Likely going to Satin black spray the front lip to match the stock trim a little better, but canā€™t tell from far away. Overall pretty happy with the look.
BD6DEAE0-2E90-4EFB-AC49-B24B537B2A80.jpeg
 
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B58_ hwAyaq

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Just an update, couple scratches here and thereā€¦ easy patch/sand with black ABS cement. Side skirts installed as well on stock height. Likely going to Satin black spray the front lip to match the stock trim a little better, but canā€™t tell from far away. Overall pretty happy with the look.
I think the side skirts came out great. Any install notes on those?

They look good at stock height. I was having trouble visualizing it.
 

Thepaulsurfer1

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I think the side skirts came out great. Any install notes on those?

Thanks! Only addition was 3m double sided tape onto the skirts. I installed them myself, placing some extra 2x4's in a stack to raise the center as close to the car so I could align the front and rear (probably much easier/faster with a helping hand). Self-tapping screws only needed to go into metal on the front hole; all others went into the factory side skirts.
 

Loco38SUP

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Hey guys, does the OEM bumper
need to be drilled or only the Maxton splitter?

-RJM
 

mkv_ty

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This isn't a full DIY, but rather a collection of notes I made from my install.

This lip is not as straightforward as some of the 3M and/or self tapping screw solutions, but it is not overly difficult either. Let me save you some of the headache.

Consider ordering from the UK site
I actually purchased this lip from the UK site. With shipping and the exchange rate, it was less than $300 USD and less than just ordering it from the US site. The reason I purchased from the UK site was the estimated delivery time from the US site was longer, and I've heard reports that the UK site orders can end up in US customers hands faster than waiting for a backordered item from the US site. I think this was true for me as the US site had a ~2 month backorder window, and I received it from the UK site in ~3 weeks.

If ordering from the UK site, be sure to use a credit card that does not charge foreign transaction fees.

Front lip link (UK): https://www.maxtondesign.co.uk/body...k5/street-pro-front-splitter-toyota-supra-mk5
Front lip link (US): https://maxtondesignusa.net/products/street-pro-front-splitter-toyota-supra-mk5

Bumper needs to come off the car
I don't see how this lip can be installed with the bumper given given where it needs to be drilled. There are lots of videos on how to remove the front bumper. I opted to disconnect the battery since the parking sensors need to be disconnected, and I was upgrading the horn (https://www.supramkv.com/threads/replacing-horn-with-piaa-sports-horn.10997/post-202047) which is what prompted the bumper removal in the first place.

There are 6 10mm bolts across the top, two 8mm bolts on each side by the fender, three 8mm bolts on each of the wheel wells, one parking sensor connector on each side, 12 8mm bolts across the bottom engine cover connected to the bumper, and another 9 8mm bolts holding the back of the bottom engine cover. I found reinstallation much easier by taking the entire bottom engine cover off and reinstalling it last.

Notes on drilling and bolts
  • I started by aligning the bumper and lip and drilling out the two holes on the end.
tempImageQw2pCG.png

tempImagepCzxtz.png

  • The front two bolts come pretty close to the front of the bumper. The front main grill needs to be popped out (just clips) to drill the holes and getting the nuts on those bolts is difficult. There is little space to work with and a few spots where you can lose a nut or washer in the bumper. I added some tape to prevent losing the nut or washer and I was unable to secure that bolt with a washer+nut. I just used a nut. Each riser is secure by two bolts, so I'm comfortable it will hold, but just something to note if you want to be as prepared as possible.
tempImage15He8M.png


Need to cut bottom engine cover and bolts to reinstall bumper
I had an incredibly frustrating time reinstalling the bumper. Something kept getting caught. After a while, I took off the whole bottom engine cover and started identifying what was blocking the bumper.
  • Some of the bolts were blocking the bottom engine cover. I just cut the bottom engine cover to give clearance.
tempImagedINJ02.png

tempImage5hyQZP.png

  • The rear bolts of the front two risers were hitting the metal crash bar. I cut the excess from these bolts with a bolt cutter. I actually cut all four front ones (not the two under the grill, just the ones near the bottom engine cover) to be sure there was clearance.
tempImageEtn1dD.png

tempImageE7vbhx.png

tempImageghhxwK.png


Bumper Reinstall
Once the bottom engine cover and the bolts were cut for clearance, the bumper went back on fine. I suggest:
  1. Reinstalling the front bumper and loosely placing bolts on
  2. Reinstalling the bottom engine cover and loosely place bolts on
  3. Position bumper and tighten most top bolts and both fender bolts on each side.
  4. Close hood to see if the panel gaps are good. (Repeat steps 3 and 4, as needed)
  5. Once bumper is positioned well, fully tighten all top and fender bolts.
  6. Fully tighten wheel well bolts
  7. Fully tighten rear bottom engine cover bolts
  8. Fully tighten front bottom engine cover bolts
I had to jack the car up on just one side to make access easier. Used a regular jack and a ZL1 jack pad. Don't stick your head under the car if just using a jack like this in case the jack fails.

Things that broke/don't line up
  • One of the rear bolts (supplied by Maxton Design) for an outside riser broke (pictured above in the bolt cutter photo). Maybe I tightened it too much. Each riser is secured by two bolts, and I feel the front one is more crucial. I tugged on it, and I'm comfortable running just one on that riser. Just FYI in case you want to grab some extra hardware before tackling this.
  • Most OEM bottom engine cover bolts are accessible once the lip is installed. I only had one become inaccessible to me (#2 of 12 if counting from left to right). I was able to secure that bolt to the engine cover, just not both the lip and engine cover, so at least it's there if I ever go back to stock. There are 11 of 12 bolts down there securing the bottom engine cover, so I'm not worried about it.
COMPLETE
tempImageAFNDmk.png

tempImage2sHBVy.png

This truly helped a lot thank you so much!
 
 




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