084runnerltd
Well-Known Member
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- #1
*This is a 1 banana job
*This is pretty detailed, written for someone who has zero experience changing oil-if you are an experienced “luber,” you may find some of the steps below too detailed. I wanted to write it in a way that even the rookiest among us could follow
Items Needed:
17mm socket
32mm 6-point (low profile) socket
Ratchet
7qts 0w-20 Toyota Synthetic Oil
Jack/Ramps
Oil filter: Mann HU6022Z
Drain Pan
Adaptor for Jack
Optional Items to make your life easier:
Small pic
Ratchet extension(s)
Blackstone oil test kit
1). Car in Park/Activate E-brake
2). Lift the car-line up your adaptor with in the proper place along the near the pinch weld of the car
3). Place drain pan under drain area & remove the plastic cover to reveal the oil drain plug.
*It is located in the center of the front wheels, very easy to find, is black in color.
*Twist off counter clockwise, it only needs about 1/4 to 1/3 turn and will slide right out
4). Using your 17mm socket, break the nut free, then twist out using your hands.
*I would advise wearing rubber gloves, try not to drop the plug in your oil drain pan
*If your engine was hot, your oil will be hot
*If this is your first oil change, there will not be a factory crush washer on the drain plug
*If this is not your first oil change, remember to make sure you remove the crush washer from the drain plug (or from the drain pan, if it sticks in place)
*The oil is thin enough, you don’t need to warm the car up first
5). Remove the oil fill cap
*This should speed up the drain time
*I prefer not to remove cap until oil starts draining as the less amount of time the cap is off, the less chance of stuff falling inside the engine.
6). Place your new crush washer on the drain plug (crush washer is included with filter
7). Once the oil has stopped draining, using your hands only, screw the drain plug back in until finger tight.
*Using a Torque wrench, tighten the plug to 18ft lbs.
*Wipe the area clean of any oil that splattered in the area
*There are some wires running near the plug, you don’t need to move them for the oil draining process, just make sure to wipe everything clean
*Replace plastic cover (ideally you do this at the end after you are sure there are no leaks)
8). Remove the engine cover
*Just pull up in the 4 corners and it will pop off
9). Locate the oil filter housing on the driver-side (USA spec) near the firewall
10). You will see some lines that are mounted in a plastic bracket running on top of the engine and partially blocking the filter housing
*On the outside of the plastic bracket there are 2 tabs, one on each side. Pull down on the tabs (toward the drivers side) and wiggle the bracket up. Move this to the rear of the engine compartment for more space to work
11). Place rags/paper towel around the oil filter housing
*Using the 32mm low-profile socket (and extension, if you prefer) loosen the oil filter housing
*Once loose, remove the housing (your oil filter may or may not stick to the housing cap).
*Clean up any oil in the area
*Remove the filter, if it didn’t come off with the housing
*Note the direction of the oil filter
12). Using your pic, remove the rubber gasket on the cap of the oil filter housing, pay attention to where the gasket is situated on the cap.
*Your new oil filter housing gasket is included with your oil filter
*Coat the new gasket with oil and slide it into place
13). Coat the o-rings on both sides of the new filter with oil (1 is located in the exterior of the filter, the other is on the interior)
14). Snap your new oil filter into place on the oil filter housing cap
15). Hand tighten the oil filter housing cap
16). Clean up any oil in the area
17). Using a torque wrench and 32mm socket, tighten it down to 18ft lbs.
18). Fill the engine with 6.5gts of oil. (I didn’t measure exactly 6.5, I estimated)
*Replace oil cap
19). Lower your vehicle
20). Warm your vehicle up to operating temperature
*I let in run in the garage for a little while, as I checked for leaks
*If there are no leaks, take your car for a drive to get it warmed up
21). Once it is at operating temperature, check the oil level via-idrive:
*On flat ground, place the car into park
*Go to “My Vehicle”
“Vehicle Status”
“Click left on the controller and click on “measure engine oil level”
Click, “Start Measurement”
*The vehicle will rev the engine to 1200rpms or so, and check the oil level
*Hopefully, your oil level reading states “engine oil level ok”
*only add more oil if the vehicle says to:
IMPORTANT: If you end up having to add more oil, drive the vehicle around again and then take another oil level reading.
Do not just add the oil and check the level again, as it will likely still read low. Then you add more oil and end up overfilling it.
If you take it somewhere for this service, I would just give them 6.5qts, have them add it and be done. There is too much of a risk of overfilling if you don’t know how the system works.
22). Reset the cars service computer:
*With the car off and your seatbelt on (mine didn’t work without my seatbelt) quickly press the “start/stop” button 3x (WITHOUT YOUR FOOT ON THE BRAKE)
*Hold down the trip reset button until the screen reads, “Service mode” or something like that.
*Release the trip button and press it again, the screen should read, “Engine oil reset?” and the number of miles and date of the next scheduled reset
*Press and hold the trip button again
*The screen should then read, “Engine oil 10k miles-reset in progress”
“It will then read, “Reset Successful”
*I may have missed a screen on the above process, just think of the trip button like this: Holding it in=“enter/yes” / Pushing it=“Select”. ( I.E Once you go into service mode, if “oil reset” isn’t the first option presented, briefly push the trip button to move to the next option, push and hold it to confirm)
23). Sleep better knowing your oil was changed correctly.
At the time I posted this thread, Toyota C5 SN 0w-20 oil was not available to consumers, so, as you see above, I used the Toyota SN 0w-20.
*This is pretty detailed, written for someone who has zero experience changing oil-if you are an experienced “luber,” you may find some of the steps below too detailed. I wanted to write it in a way that even the rookiest among us could follow
Items Needed:
17mm socket
32mm 6-point (low profile) socket
Ratchet
7qts 0w-20 Toyota Synthetic Oil
Jack/Ramps
Oil filter: Mann HU6022Z
Drain Pan
Adaptor for Jack
Optional Items to make your life easier:
Small pic
Ratchet extension(s)
Blackstone oil test kit
1). Car in Park/Activate E-brake
2). Lift the car-line up your adaptor with in the proper place along the near the pinch weld of the car
3). Place drain pan under drain area & remove the plastic cover to reveal the oil drain plug.
*It is located in the center of the front wheels, very easy to find, is black in color.
*Twist off counter clockwise, it only needs about 1/4 to 1/3 turn and will slide right out
4). Using your 17mm socket, break the nut free, then twist out using your hands.
*I would advise wearing rubber gloves, try not to drop the plug in your oil drain pan
*If your engine was hot, your oil will be hot
*If this is your first oil change, there will not be a factory crush washer on the drain plug
*If this is not your first oil change, remember to make sure you remove the crush washer from the drain plug (or from the drain pan, if it sticks in place)
*The oil is thin enough, you don’t need to warm the car up first
5). Remove the oil fill cap
*This should speed up the drain time
*I prefer not to remove cap until oil starts draining as the less amount of time the cap is off, the less chance of stuff falling inside the engine.
6). Place your new crush washer on the drain plug (crush washer is included with filter
7). Once the oil has stopped draining, using your hands only, screw the drain plug back in until finger tight.
*Using a Torque wrench, tighten the plug to 18ft lbs.
*Wipe the area clean of any oil that splattered in the area
*There are some wires running near the plug, you don’t need to move them for the oil draining process, just make sure to wipe everything clean
*Replace plastic cover (ideally you do this at the end after you are sure there are no leaks)
8). Remove the engine cover
*Just pull up in the 4 corners and it will pop off
9). Locate the oil filter housing on the driver-side (USA spec) near the firewall
10). You will see some lines that are mounted in a plastic bracket running on top of the engine and partially blocking the filter housing
*On the outside of the plastic bracket there are 2 tabs, one on each side. Pull down on the tabs (toward the drivers side) and wiggle the bracket up. Move this to the rear of the engine compartment for more space to work
11). Place rags/paper towel around the oil filter housing
*Using the 32mm low-profile socket (and extension, if you prefer) loosen the oil filter housing
*Once loose, remove the housing (your oil filter may or may not stick to the housing cap).
*Clean up any oil in the area
*Remove the filter, if it didn’t come off with the housing
*Note the direction of the oil filter
12). Using your pic, remove the rubber gasket on the cap of the oil filter housing, pay attention to where the gasket is situated on the cap.
*Your new oil filter housing gasket is included with your oil filter
*Coat the new gasket with oil and slide it into place
13). Coat the o-rings on both sides of the new filter with oil (1 is located in the exterior of the filter, the other is on the interior)
14). Snap your new oil filter into place on the oil filter housing cap
15). Hand tighten the oil filter housing cap
16). Clean up any oil in the area
17). Using a torque wrench and 32mm socket, tighten it down to 18ft lbs.
18). Fill the engine with 6.5gts of oil. (I didn’t measure exactly 6.5, I estimated)
*Replace oil cap
19). Lower your vehicle
20). Warm your vehicle up to operating temperature
*I let in run in the garage for a little while, as I checked for leaks
*If there are no leaks, take your car for a drive to get it warmed up
21). Once it is at operating temperature, check the oil level via-idrive:
*On flat ground, place the car into park
*Go to “My Vehicle”
“Vehicle Status”
“Click left on the controller and click on “measure engine oil level”
Click, “Start Measurement”
*The vehicle will rev the engine to 1200rpms or so, and check the oil level
*Hopefully, your oil level reading states “engine oil level ok”
*only add more oil if the vehicle says to:
IMPORTANT: If you end up having to add more oil, drive the vehicle around again and then take another oil level reading.
Do not just add the oil and check the level again, as it will likely still read low. Then you add more oil and end up overfilling it.
If you take it somewhere for this service, I would just give them 6.5qts, have them add it and be done. There is too much of a risk of overfilling if you don’t know how the system works.
22). Reset the cars service computer:
*With the car off and your seatbelt on (mine didn’t work without my seatbelt) quickly press the “start/stop” button 3x (WITHOUT YOUR FOOT ON THE BRAKE)
*Hold down the trip reset button until the screen reads, “Service mode” or something like that.
*Release the trip button and press it again, the screen should read, “Engine oil reset?” and the number of miles and date of the next scheduled reset
*Press and hold the trip button again
*The screen should then read, “Engine oil 10k miles-reset in progress”
“It will then read, “Reset Successful”
*I may have missed a screen on the above process, just think of the trip button like this: Holding it in=“enter/yes” / Pushing it=“Select”. ( I.E Once you go into service mode, if “oil reset” isn’t the first option presented, briefly push the trip button to move to the next option, push and hold it to confirm)
23). Sleep better knowing your oil was changed correctly.
At the time I posted this thread, Toyota C5 SN 0w-20 oil was not available to consumers, so, as you see above, I used the Toyota SN 0w-20.
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