Oil Change Walk-Through with Pics

084runnerltd

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*This is a 1 banana job
*This is pretty detailed, written for someone who has zero experience changing oil-if you are an experienced “luber,” you may find some of the steps below too detailed. I wanted to write it in a way that even the rookiest among us could follow

Items Needed:

17mm socket
32mm 6-point (low profile) socket
Ratchet
7qts 0w-20 Toyota Synthetic Oil
Jack/Ramps
Oil filter: Mann HU6022Z
Drain Pan
Adaptor for Jack

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Optional Items to make your life easier:

Small pic
Ratchet extension(s)
Blackstone oil test kit

1). Car in Park/Activate E-brake

2). Lift the car-line up your adaptor with in the proper place along the near the pinch weld of the car
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3). Place drain pan under drain area & remove the plastic cover to reveal the oil drain plug.

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*It is located in the center of the front wheels, very easy to find, is black in color.

*Twist off counter clockwise, it only needs about 1/4 to 1/3 turn and will slide right out

4). Using your 17mm socket, break the nut free, then twist out using your hands.

*I would advise wearing rubber gloves, try not to drop the plug in your oil drain pan

*If your engine was hot, your oil will be hot

*If this is your first oil change, there will not be a factory crush washer on the drain plug

*If this is not your first oil change, remember to make sure you remove the crush washer from the drain plug (or from the drain pan, if it sticks in place)

*The oil is thin enough, you don’t need to warm the car up first

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5). Remove the oil fill cap

*This should speed up the drain time

*I prefer not to remove cap until oil starts draining as the less amount of time the cap is off, the less chance of stuff falling inside the engine.

6). Place your new crush washer on the drain plug (crush washer is included with filter

7). Once the oil has stopped draining, using your hands only, screw the drain plug back in until finger tight.

*Using a Torque wrench, tighten the plug to 18ft lbs.

*Wipe the area clean of any oil that splattered in the area

*There are some wires running near the plug, you don’t need to move them for the oil draining process, just make sure to wipe everything clean

*Replace plastic cover (ideally you do this at the end after you are sure there are no leaks)

8). Remove the engine cover

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*Just pull up in the 4 corners and it will pop off

9). Locate the oil filter housing on the driver-side (USA spec) near the firewall
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10). You will see some lines that are mounted in a plastic bracket running on top of the engine and partially blocking the filter housing

*On the outside of the plastic bracket there are 2 tabs, one on each side. Pull down on the tabs (toward the drivers side) and wiggle the bracket up. Move this to the rear of the engine compartment for more space to work
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11). Place rags/paper towel around the oil filter housing

*Using the 32mm low-profile socket (and extension, if you prefer) loosen the oil filter housing

*Once loose, remove the housing (your oil filter may or may not stick to the housing cap).

*Clean up any oil in the area

*Remove the filter, if it didn’t come off with the housing

*Note the direction of the oil filter

12). Using your pic, remove the rubber gasket on the cap of the oil filter housing, pay attention to where the gasket is situated on the cap.

*Your new oil filter housing gasket is included with your oil filter

*Coat the new gasket with oil and slide it into place

13). Coat the o-rings on both sides of the new filter with oil (1 is located in the exterior of the filter, the other is on the interior)

14). Snap your new oil filter into place on the oil filter housing cap

15). Hand tighten the oil filter housing cap

16). Clean up any oil in the area

17). Using a torque wrench and 32mm socket, tighten it down to 18ft lbs.

18). Fill the engine with 6.5gts of oil. (I didn’t measure exactly 6.5, I estimated)

*Replace oil cap

19). Lower your vehicle

20). Warm your vehicle up to operating temperature

*I let in run in the garage for a little while, as I checked for leaks

*If there are no leaks, take your car for a drive to get it warmed up

21). Once it is at operating temperature, check the oil level via-idrive:

*On flat ground, place the car into park

*Go to “My Vehicle”
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“Vehicle Status”
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“Click left on the controller and click on “measure engine oil level”
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Click, “Start Measurement”
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*The vehicle will rev the engine to 1200rpms or so, and check the oil level

*Hopefully, your oil level reading states “engine oil level ok”

*only add more oil if the vehicle says to:

IMPORTANT: If you end up having to add more oil, drive the vehicle around again and then take another oil level reading.

Do not just add the oil and check the level again, as it will likely still read low. Then you add more oil and end up overfilling it.

If you take it somewhere for this service, I would just give them 6.5qts, have them add it and be done. There is too much of a risk of overfilling if you don’t know how the system works.

22). Reset the cars service computer:

*With the car off and your seatbelt on (mine didn’t work without my seatbelt) quickly press the “start/stop” button 3x (WITHOUT YOUR FOOT ON THE BRAKE)

*Hold down the trip reset button until the screen reads, “Service mode” or something like that.

*Release the trip button and press it again, the screen should read, “Engine oil reset?” and the number of miles and date of the next scheduled reset
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*Press and hold the trip button again

*The screen should then read, “Engine oil 10k miles-reset in progress”
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“It will then read, “Reset Successful”
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*I may have missed a screen on the above process, just think of the trip button like this: Holding it in=“enter/yes” / Pushing it=“Select”. ( I.E Once you go into service mode, if “oil reset” isn’t the first option presented, briefly push the trip button to move to the next option, push and hold it to confirm)

23). Sleep better knowing your oil was changed correctly.

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At the time I posted this thread, Toyota C5 SN 0w-20 oil was not available to consumers, so, as you see above, I used the Toyota SN 0w-20.

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084runnerltd

084runnerltd

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Sorry for all the extra pics. I keep trying to delete the ones at the end of the post, but they keep reappearing.
 

Skeeter

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Great DIY write up...now I have a stupid question/questions...My car only has 350 miles. When should I do my first oil change? I know Toyota says 10,000 miles,.....but??. I am used to changing my oil every 5,000, should I keep that up? If I follow a 5,000 mile schedule will changing the oil more often cause an issue with the computer? I am an Amsoil dealer, and really like their oils and filters. I currently use their Amsoil Signature series 0W-20 in my Highlander. Will that be adequate to use in the Supra? Amsoil also has a European formula 0W-20, or just stick with the Toyota Synethic?
 
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084runnerltd

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Great DIY write up...now I have a stupid question/questions...My car only has 350 miles. When should I do my first oil change? I know Toyota says 10,000 miles,.....but??. I am used to changing my oil every 5,000, should I keep that up? If I follow a 5,000 mile schedule will changing the oil more often cause an issue with the computer? I am an Amsoil dealer, and really like their oils and filters. I currently use their Amsoil Signature series 0W-20 in my Highlander. Will that be adequate to use in the Supra? Amsoil also has a European formula 0W-20, or just stick with the Toyota Synethic?
Good questions.

I am sure you will get all kinds of answers, that always seems to happen when “oil” is the topic.

As noted, I did my first change at around 3k. Based on what I have read, it seems to be pretty much agreed upon, that your first oil change change should be done sooner rather than later.

Not even being an oil expert, this makes sense to me. Everything is getting broken-in and I am sure more debris gets into the oil as the engine starts to log some miles.

Going forward I am doing oil changes every 5k or at least once a year. I believe it was BMW, perhaps it was Mercedes, that for a little while had 15k intervals, then they started seeing issues and lowered the recommended intervals to 10k.

(Have to remember too, with a lot of these new cars the manufacturer is covering oil changes throughout the warranty. I have to imagine it costed them a lot of money to move the recommended change interval from 15k to 10k, as they had to provide more free oil changes, but that obviously outweighed the engine damage they were seeing, so they decided to move it to 10k....5k seems reasonable to me, especially if you are gonna keep the car a while. 150.00 more a year is negligible in the long haul.)

As for Amsoil, as you know, they make some of the best oil out there. All of my other vehicles use Amsoil fluids (diff, oil, transfer case, etc..). I love the stuff. However, I did contact them prior to doing the oil change, asking what oil of theirs they recommended. I even sent them pics of the spec sheet from the manual.

If I recall correctly, the manual gives specs for the preferred oil and also gives specs for “if you can’t find the oil listed, use XYZ.” I believe at the time Amsoil did not have an oil that met the preferred specs listed in the manual, but did offer the “next best.” I think it was Euro Spec, but to be honest I don’t remember.

I stuck with Toyota, however, I would feel good using any quality oil that meets the preferred oil specs stated in the manual.

The one piece of advice I would say, is don’t run a different weight. I know there will be people who disagree with me and I am not claiming to be an oil expert. However, IHMO, new engines are made with such tight tolerances compared to engines of the past. Changing the weight of the oil will affect its lubricating properties and it is a risk I am not willing to take.

Companies don’t just slap a oil weight rating on an engine for the heck of it, as you know. There is plenty of testing and R&D dollars invested in the weight of oil chosen. Just because someone is running 5w-30 and hasn’t had any issues, doesn’t mean that the 5w-30 is lubricating the engine as well as the specified oil would have.

As for the computer, changing the oil will not mess up the computer as you manually reset it (as shown in the diy) after each change.

Hope that helps!
 

KPatrick

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Nice post and Thank you!
You can assign the number buttons on the dash as shortcuts to some of the settings. Saw it on one of the Supra video reviews. Just put the screen on whatever you want then hold down the # button. It will acknowledge with a beep or say it can't. I have the oil level check set to button 8.
 
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084runnerltd

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084runnerltd

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Waferz

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I did the oil reset and mine still shows 9000 miles but changed the date to 2021..... does anyone know how to reset the miles?


Oh, and don’t forget to put towels around the oil filter..... I now have oil dripping down the engine and sitting in the skid plate! lol going to pull the plate off and clean it
 
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Mkmtl

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100% wrong oil and probably doesn't meet oil requirements
 
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100% wrong oil and probably doesn't meet oil requirements
Thanks for the great feedback. The “Supra” oil was not commercially available at the time I did the change. This is what was recommended.

Others have switched brands all together, others aren’t changing until 10k miles...so don’t have a heart attack, I think my car will survive.

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Mkmtl

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Anyways, BMW LLFE17+ would have been a better option seeing it's a B58 (even though Toyota hadn't made the Supra C5 available for purchase at the time of your oil change)
My comment was added for those who would stumble upon this thread and accidentally purchase the oil you put in the pic.
 
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084runnerltd

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Anyways, BMW LLFE17+ would have been a better option seeing it's a B58 (even though Toyota hadn't made the Supra C5 available for purchase at the time of your oil change)
My comment was added for those who would stumble upon this thread and accidentally purchase the oil you put in the pic.
I will update the thread.
 

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