When to build the motor? Advice on drivetrain upgrades on MT? Cooling recs? Anyone running pure 900 ? Random wheel question

[coyfish]

Hey guys I am planning on my future mods and ultimately my goal is going to be around 750-800whp. I know I can get near there with a pure 900 and port injection but I want to do this safely with good supporting mods. This is a weekend street car so I won't be doing many digs or track days. Looking for a little advice regarding the next moves. I have the money to spend to do it right. Current setup: intake/dp/MHD reflex E40 tuned making 550whp/600tq. I have been thinking of doing the following: CSF manifold w/ port injection and fuel pump upgrades, pure 900, clutch, front/rear sway bars +/- coilovers.

1) Top mount is tempting but doesn't really seem necessary or have any advantages for my goals. That being said I am leaning towards the pure 900 but I see very little info about it thus far. Opinions? I hear people trashing the reliability of all the "hybrid" turbo companies so not sure what to think there. Seems like the top mount kits are more reliable once installed and dialed in but overall has more moving parts / room for potential issues.

2) If I am not tracking / beating the car does it make any sense to get the upgraded radiators and such? Obviously the manifold is important so that will be upgraded.

3) Best supporting drivetrain mods to handle and put down the power? I live in the city so as much as I would like to have the car lowered I am happy at stock height so I am not scraping everywhere. Sway bars / end links / coilovers ? The clutch obviously will be upgraded.

4) From the interwebs it seems like B58's start blowing around 700whp. Is there any benefit of building the motor for my goals or let it blow if it wants to blow and then build it at that time?

5) Lastly does it make sense to pay 3x the price for forged wheels to save 2lbs per wheel or will it not be noticeable on the street...

Appreciate any help! Merry Christmas!

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[lucky phil]

Hey guys I am planning on my future mods and ultimately my goal is going to be around 750-800whp. I know I can get near there with a pure 900 and port injection but I want to do this safely with good supporting mods. This is a weekend street car so I won't be doing many digs or track days. Looking for a little advice regarding the next moves. I have the money to spend to do it right. Current setup: intake/dp/MHD reflex E40 tuned making 550whp/600tq. I have been thinking of doing the following: CSF manifold w/ port injection and fuel pump upgrades, pure 900, clutch, front/rear sway bars +/- coilovers.

1) Top mount is tempting but doesn't really seem necessary or have any advantages for my goals. That being said I am leaning towards the pure 900 but I see very little info about it thus far. Opinions? I hear people trashing the reliability of all the "hybrid" turbo companies so not sure what to think there. Seems like the top mount kits are more reliable once installed and dialed in but overall has more moving parts / room for potential issues.

2) If I am not tracking / beating the car does it make any sense to get the upgraded radiators and such? Obviously the manifold is important so that will be upgraded.

3) Best supporting drivetrain mods to handle and put down the power? I live in the city so as much as I would like to have the car lowered I am happy at stock height so I am not scraping everywhere. Sway bars / end links / coilovers ? The clutch obviously will be upgraded.

4) From the interwebs it seems like B58's start blowing around 700whp. Is there any benefit of building the motor for my goals or let it blow if it wants to blow and then build it at that time?

5) Lastly does it make sense to pay 3x the price for forged wheels to save 2lbs per wheel or will it not be noticeable on the street...

Appreciate any help! Merry Christmas!

Quite funny. It's all Irrationality on the engine mods and all "rationality" on the wheels.

Phil

 

[coyfish]

Quite funny. It's all Irrationality on the engine mods and all "rationality" on the wheels.

Phil

The point of my post was to try and tease out what is rational and irrational for my goals from people with experience. I appreciate the insightful response.

 

[Jmanlevan]

I guess my questions are:

1.) If you're not going to be beating on the car, tracking it, dig racing, roll racing or any sort of performance driving and its just a weekend street car, what is the reason for wanting to bump the power numbers to 750-800whp?

Just so you can say you did and that you have a car that makes those numbers?

Seems like a lot of work (and money) just for bragging rights. But hey it's your money and do with it what you'd like. I'm simply asking out of pure curiosity because I don't know why you're seeking those numbers based off this post.

500-600whp seems to be the perfect sweet spot for these cars and their weight, especially for a street car which is where you're at right now. And at the power you're making currently, a clutch upgrade isn't absolutely necessary. In my humble opinion, You're at the perfect sweet spot for a street car with an ideal street driving experience without dumping a ton of unnecessary money into the car just to make horsepower numbers that sound cool.

2.) I didn't see you mention anything about the transmission. Have you thought about the transmission and if so, what are your thoughts? Yes you can achieve those power numbers you're seeking with the Auto Supra's but nobody with a manual is making that kind of power quite yet. Or at least I personally have yet to see an MT car making those numbers. There's only 2-3,000 manual Supras out there, which means there isn't a huge market for transmission upgrades as only a super small fraction of those owners are actually going to want and be able to build a car to the 750-800whp numbers. You mention upgrading the clutch, but the rest of the trans itself will need to be upgraded, and I don't know of any upgrades such as Pure transmission upgrade for the MT yet. If you know of upgrades, please enlighten me.

As far as the wheels go. No, you're not going to notice the weight difference of forged wheels on the street. Especially since you won't be "tracking/beating" the car as you put it.

I'm genuinely curious as to what your actual goals are with this car and why you want to build it to the extent you're mentioning.

 

[Jmanlevan]

P.s. Merry Christmas!

 

[Loco38SUP]

I guess my questions are:

1.) If you're not going to be beating on the car, tracking it, dig racing, roll racing or any sort of performance driving and its just a weekend street car, what is the reason for wanting to bump the power numbers to 750-800whp?

Just so you can say you did and that you have a car that makes those numbers?

Seems like a lot of work (and money) just for bragging rights. But hey it's your money and do with it what you'd like. I'm simply asking out of pure curiosity because I don't know why you're seeking those numbers based off this post.

500-600whp seems to be the perfect sweet spot for these cars and their weight, especially for a street car which is where you're at right now. And at the power you're making currently, a clutch upgrade isn't absolutely necessary. In my humble opinion, You're at the perfect sweet spot for a street car with an ideal street driving experience without dumping a ton of unnecessary money into the car just to make horsepower numbers that sound cool.

2.) I didn't see you mention anything about the transmission. Have you thought about the transmission and if so, what are your thoughts? Yes you can achieve those power numbers you're seeking with the Auto Supra's but nobody with a manual is making that kind of power quite yet. Or at least I personally have yet to see an MT car making those numbers. There's only 2-3,000 manual Supras out there, which means there isn't a huge market for transmission upgrades as only a super small fraction of those owners are actually going to want and be able to build a car to the 750-800whp numbers. You mention upgrading the clutch, but the rest of the trans itself will need to be upgraded, and I don't know of any upgrades such as Pure transmission upgrade for the MT yet. If you know of upgrades, please enlighten me.

As far as the wheels go. No, you're not going to notice the weight difference of forged wheels on the street. Especially since you won't be "tracking/beating" the car as you put it.

I'm genuinely curious as to what your actual goals are with this car and why you want to build it to the extent you're mentioning.

Was thinking the same thing.

-RJM

 

[Funkjaw]

Are you on stock clutch currently? If you are, I'm honestly very surprised as it seems a lot of guys are slipping the stock clutch with with even lower power levels than you.

 

[coyfish]

I guess my questions are:

1.) If you're not going to be beating on the car, tracking it, dig racing, roll racing or any sort of performance driving and its just a weekend street car, what is the reason for wanting to bump the power numbers to 750-800whp?

Just so you can say you did and that you have a car that makes those numbers?

Seems like a lot of work (and money) just for bragging rights. But hey it's your money and do with it what you'd like. I'm simply asking out of pure curiosity because I don't know why you're seeking those numbers based off this post.

500-600whp seems to be the perfect sweet spot for these cars and their weight, especially for a street car which is where you're at right now. And at the power you're making currently, a clutch upgrade isn't absolutely necessary. In my humble opinion, You're at the perfect sweet spot for a street car with an ideal street driving experience without dumping a ton of unnecessary money into the car just to make horsepower numbers that sound cool.

2.) I didn't see you mention anything about the transmission. Have you thought about the transmission and if so, what are your thoughts? Yes you can achieve those power numbers you're seeking with the Auto Supra's but nobody with a manual is making that kind of power quite yet. Or at least I personally have yet to see an MT car making those numbers. There's only 2-3,000 manual Supras out there, which means there isn't a huge market for transmission upgrades as only a super small fraction of those owners are actually going to want and be able to build a car to the 750-800whp numbers. You mention upgrading the clutch, but the rest of the trans itself will need to be upgraded, and I don't know of any upgrades such as Pure transmission upgrade for the MT yet. If you know of upgrades, please enlighten me.

As far as the wheels go. No, you're not going to notice the weight difference of forged wheels on the street. Especially since you won't be "tracking/beating" the car as you put it.

I'm genuinely curious as to what your actual goals are with this car and why you want to build it to the extent you're mentioning.

Appreciate the insight and merry xmas!

1) Simple answer is I enjoy the process. It is a hobby. I have always wanted to build a high HP car but never had the means. I do enjoy the car I just don't take it to the track. Never said I didn't push it or race. I am just not redlining it for 15+ minutes at a time. I could care less about bragging and you are right numbers in a way are arbitrary.

2) Thats why I am asking about drivetrain .

3) Thanks! I prefer the look on some cast wheels just wanted to make sure there wasn't some big difference I was overlooking since it would be a downgrade from the stock forged.

 

[coyfish]

Are you on stock clutch currently? If you are, I'm honestly very surprised as it seems a lot of guys are slipping the stock clutch with with even lower power levels than you.

Yep stock clutch. Yeah you are right I have heard of people slipping with stock numbers. I haven't had an issues but I expect them at any moment.

 

[swrdply400mrelay]

Not much to add but as a MT owner I’m interested to see this being built, lol

Also, probably stay away from Clutch Masters.

The Pure 900 is a new turbo so probably better reliability than the rebuilt ones.

 

[Jmanlevan]

Appreciate the insight and merry xmas!

1) Simple answer is I enjoy the process. It is a hobby. I have always wanted to build a high HP car but never had the means. I do enjoy the car I just don't take it to the track. Never said I didn't push it or race. I am just not redlining it for 15+ minutes at a time. I could care less about bragging and you are right numbers in a way are arbitrary.

2) Thats why I am asking about drivetrain .

3) Thanks! I prefer the look on some cast wheels just wanted to make sure there wasn't some big difference I was overlooking since it would be a downgrade from the stock forged.

Wheels are such a preference thing but I would stay away from cast wheels.

Flow forged/hybrid forged etc are perfectly fine for our cars. Especially for a street application.

I have a fully forged wheel but that's because I liked the particular design of these wheels and got them at a price similar/comparable to a flow forged wheel. Most fully forged wheels are way too expensive and not really worth it, but the company I bought from (Variant Wheels out of Chandler, AZ) has a line of wheels in their EVO collection that are fully forged wheels at flow forged prices. They even use the phrase "forged at a fraction" to market this line of wheels. Nobody is offering fully forged wheels at the prices Variant is. If you buy from another brand, their fully forged wheels are going to be super expensive and you definitely won't notice the difference.

Also, Since you have a Manual Supra, the factory wheels are actually already fully forged wheels (which is awesome) so you definitely won't see much/if any weight savings buying an aftermarket fully forged wheel.

Go with a design you like and don't worry too much if it is fully forged vs. flow forged. Just don't do a cast wheel.

 

[coyfish]

Wheels are such a preference thing but I would stay away from cast wheels.

Flow forged/hybrid forged etc are perfectly fine for our cars. Especially for a street application.

I have a fully forged wheel but that's because I liked the particular design of these wheels and got them at a price similar/comparable to a flow forged wheel. Most fully forged wheels are way too expensive and not really worth it, but the company I bought from (Variant Wheels out of Chandler, AZ) has a line of wheels in their EVO collection that are fully forged wheels at flow forged prices. They even use the phrase "forged at a fraction" to market this line of wheels. Nobody is offering fully forged wheels at the prices Variant is. If you buy from another brand, their fully forged wheels are going to be super expensive and you definitely won't notice the difference.

Also, Since you have a Manual Supra, the factory wheels are actually already fully forged wheels (which is awesome) so you definitely won't see much/if any weight savings buying an aftermarket fully forged wheel.

Go with a design you like and don't worry too much if it is fully forged vs. flow forged. Just don't do a cast wheel.

Noted on the wheels and thank you!

 

[Jmanlevan]

On a related note, I have had better luck with less spinning in the first 3 gears with a better, wider, stickier than stock tire in the rear (Michelin PS4S, 305mm width)

 

[razorlab]

Also, Since you have a Manual Supra, the factory wheels are actually already fully forged wheels (which is awesome) so you definitely won't see much/if any weight savings buying an aftermarket fully forged wheel.

Every single MK5 Supra have forged wheels OEM. Not just manuals.

 

[TurboZX10R]

Stop at 750hp/700tq with a good tune if you want it to live.

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