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I've had lowered cars before and no issues. The Supra is my car for when I'm alone and want to pretend race car, so I don't mind if it feels pretty stiff and I need to creep over speed bumps. I have other cars for when I don't want to bother with that. I got this car just for fun and light...

Timmy_Jones, your are a hero today. Removed camber bolt like the MSS video, got the troublesome bolt fed through, and camber bolt was much easier to feed through last due to the slack in the hole of the LCA for adjustment. Just have to button that side up and do the other rear the MSS way...

Just watched, trying this now. Took a break after trying with the rear sway disconnected and realized that won't help the angle I need. The hub seems held very solid as far as toe/camber. Going to try disconnecting at camber bolt like the video you suggested now. I'll be back later! Thank you...

I'm going to pick up a tapered punch to try as well since multiple people mentioned this method. Thanks!

I really appreciate all the tips and insights. I won't get to the car again, likely until Saturday. I'm going to try loosening the camber bolt (sounds like inside bolt where LCA connect to subframe) and disconnecting the sway bar end link for more play as well, if necessary. I also realized...

Jack has a rubber pad but not a great one. I've tried jacking it different ways but never trying to push/pull the jack to change the angle of the LCA/hub. I'll get a grippy jack pads and give it a try. Thank you.

It's my car and I have trouble getting there myself, lol. Really kind of you to offer, though. I really only need about 1/3 of an inch more to get the bolt through. Going to try loosening the inner LCA bolt next time and see if that gives me the additional wiggle room I need.

Car is in Elk Grove, I'm in the bay.

Tried both, literally for hours. Can get a screwdriver through, but can only adjust the hub out far enough for 1/2 the back side hole to be aligned if the front is aligned enough to take the bolt. I'm a fairly strong guy, buddy helping me is more experienced and even stronger, but I don't think...

I spent 6 hours using this method, and with all my might, couldn't line up the back side once the bolt was in the front. I am wondering if my car is out of alignment spec; read on an old post that loosening the inner LCA bolt from the sub frame might make it easier to pull the hub assembly...

I wonder if one of the wires wasn't secured in the clips or maybe that headlight leveling sensor is dangling? Since it happens when rolling and not turning, makes me wonder if something back there just wasn't tucked away properly and contacts wheel or suspension but when wheel is turned it...

About a week ago I set about installing lowering springs on my '23 MkV. Everything seemed to go fine doing both fronts, got to the rear and ran into an issue buttoning things back up. Everything seemed to go fine (removing the bolt was under a little tension but no issues), but when replacing...