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UPDATE: I've ordered the belt for the passenger side, adjusted the tabs and it fit right in on the driver side. The car is not throwing any error codes, seems it's working as expected.

If anybody's interested in this topic, I think I figured it out. I did some more reading and realized that there are several orthogonal systems (more or less) which are a part of the more general SRS system. Seat belts have several retractor technologies: * ELR (Emegency Locking Rectractor) -...

Good idea, I'll try it out. Thanks!

Here's the screen shot from the manual. Type B shows an extra electrical connector which should be for automatic tensioning. I found the part number for 2.0 supra https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~belt~assy~fr~seat~73220-waa01.html The one I have is 73220-WAA02. Now I just need...

Ffs, does anybody know if the Type A seat belt can be manually locked and its part number? I'd appreciate it! Thank you!

That comment was for the other guy. Also, not the topic. Stated several times.

because trauma surgeon = safety expert? ;)

Sure, I wasn't precise enough. They do snap, it's just the forces where this happens are high. I fail to see how this is contradicting what I said.

We're getting a little sidetracked here. All I wanted to know was if the belt I have in the car can be exchanged to one without the electronic pre-tensioning :) But... Since we're here, we can discuss this for a bit ;) Seat belts stretch under tension and up to a point after which they break...

Locking of the belt is the whole point of the belt ;) Thanks for the response tho :)

Thanks for the input. I've used this before but I'm switching to bucket seats and I'll be using 3-point until I manage to put in a roll bar + straps :)

Hi folks, I was looking into replacing my driver side seat belt with one that doesn't have electronically controlled tension (based on speed and G forces) and can be manually pre-tenssioned (you pull it out completely and then slowly bring the belt back until desired tension is reached). Just...

Ok, I took the car on a long drive over the weekend and oh boy, does removing these make a difference. It's a different car! It's softer and more planted under braking. So, I realized I had two issues which I though were connected but they weren't. The first was the fact that the steering wheel...

Yes. Both of them had these in and are now removed. Thanks for the heads up!

No worries, thanks for the suggestion. It did prompt me to figure out how to turn head unit off when the doors open :cool:

I tried this. Both wheels seem sturdy when I tried to shake them left-right and up-down. I did manage to turn both wheels (and the steering wheel) by hand by pushing on the wheel that was up in the air even tho the other was on the ground. Seemed relatively easy. One thing I did discover are...

I've reset my profile, disabled all the assists and it didn't help. Thanks for the suggestion tho!

In this class, yes. While I do think tramlining (or something on the road's surface) is the first domino, I don't think this is the full story because of the magnitude of the effect and the speed at which it happens. I'll be doing something like 25-30mph, and when I tap on the brakes the car...

Thanks! I'll try that.

What should I be looking for?