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Yeah my 2nd supra had one. Your finance company required them to install it. I took it out as soon as i got home with no issues.

Goodbye 2.0! Got the car back a week ago and have already put it back to stock. Found a low mile black 2020 premium 3.0 and made a deal on it. Should be picking it up and handing over the 2.0 today. For those wondering the final bill on repairs was 21.5k and im working with them to get one more...

Initial quote was way lower but they keep finding more damage. STill at or below half the value of the car so it keeps going.

Whelp. Drunk driver forced me off the road and into a curb a few months back. So far about 18kish in damages. Might be time to get it back and trade it in for a 3.0 Entire from left suspension replaced cross member 2 radiators front bumper fenders aluminum side rail repairs strut tower driver...

Not at all was very easy.

I'd love if we had a shorter stud option. Would option up the choices a fair bit more.

I have a set of " Project Kics 14 x 1.5 Glorious Black T1/07 Monolith Lug " and extended studs i plan to throw on the car. I'll just have to drill the key for the lugs to fit the extended studs. Another guy did this a while ago on facebook and said drilling was a bitch but it worked well...

Installed the actuator with the fuse out and car off (flap open) then put the fuse back in. Cleared the codes and the fault has never come back and the flap is always open now.

Pulling the fuse threw a short fault on my car. I put the BMW M dummy flap actuator on to get rid of it while keeping the flap open. Dummy Flap Actuator 189900 - https://parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/oem-parts/bmw-dummy-flap-actuator-189900-18302411427

There are currently no off the shelf options or kits. There was a guy on facebook from another country that threw in new pistions and a larger turbo but there wasn't a lot of info. Honestly it'd be 3k-ish for the turbo/manifold set up + you'd want to unlock your ECU for a real tune. Just seems...

Used to use virtual dyno a lot on my built / big turbo mazdaspeed 3. Once you get the settings down it's pretty darn accurate if you are on a straight and level road.. Though it did take some time to get it all configured compared to real world dyno pulls

You'll need to open the log in excel and delete all rows that are in other gears that you dont want to see. You'll want to do one gear at a time or you'll get a graph that goes back forth.

Don't waste your time with the jb+ just go with a jb4 and a custom map.

Best thing to get is a set of the low profile blocks imo. I'm lowered on MSS springs that are maxed and can still fit the quickjacks under the car when using the lower blocks. Castors would be nice but not a necessity. Adapters arnt a necessity... I just put the blocks on the jack points and...

From what i can see online both are battery related. Might want to try a trickle charger if you arnt driving the car a lot? Or you might want to have the secondary battery checked out.

CD990E CD900B 21B056 21B055 180001 Are all always on for me as a 2.0 with a catless downpipe... And i check the codes once a week since the CEL is always on with the catless downpipe. I've yet to see a 030DA7 or 030E0F.

Yup, Just had the factory catback flange cut off and welded to the 3.0 catback.

Looks like a bad sensor to me

I just tape my phone under the car and turn the flashlight on.

Yeah i've got a set of the 78mm conversions just looking for something shorter. Not a huge deal but would love something closer to mid 60mm.