Search results

In case anyone is interested, got help from this forum in another post on how to properly do the swap. Here's the thread: https://www.supramkv.com/threads/battery-replacement-programming.14298/ Appreciate this post too -- helped convince me of the rationale for why a battery would need to be...

Also, I'll add that I learned a ton from this process. This thread helped me to believe that battery registration and matching is legit -- it's a way to optimize the power draw of the battery over time to help it last longer. https://www.supramkv.com/threads/battery.3260/

For anyone interested, I bought a new Toyota TrueStart battery matched to the car, an OBDLink MX+, and Bimmerlink. Got the new battery installed and registered in 10 minutes, no CELs or codes. Here's the thread with the details...

...and it worked like a charm. New battery is in and registered, no codes. Thanks @Loco38SUP and others!

Awesome, thanks again for the help!

Got it, thanks! It's a Toyota TrueStart battery 00544-H9AGM-TS) that has a "Made in Germany" sticker on it and not much else :) Dealer indicated it's the one for my car. Found a Toyota TrueStart battery spec sheet for it: 950 CCA, 105AH which looks identical to the BMW battery, but it only...

Great, thanks again! I'm a complete Bimmer* beginner -- I'll be looking at docs later tonight, and if you had any basic slightly more detailed tips/instructions, that would be great. If not, no problem either -- thanks again for the help!

Awesome, this sounds really straightforward. Any gotchas/things to watch out for? Thank you!

Thanks! That's my hope.

Thanks -- yeah, adapter arrives tomorrow. Any BimmerLink steps?

Has anyone tried to replace the battery themselves? Can someone who has reprogrammed themselves after battery swap reply? Backstory: Dealer is telling me that unless the battery is reprogrammed during installation, the ECU is going to think the new battery is the old one and too much voltage...

Gotcha -- what box did you use?

Yeah everything came on, no CELs. When I hit Start, everything goes black, starter gets maybe 1 rev but just isn't getting enough power it seems to turn over.

As the first person that replied mentioned, even with a drain/recharge scenario, I'm going to still have to re-register the battery because the car is completely dead. Not sure what a jumper box gets me if another vehicle can't revive it?

Yeah -- first person that replied gave me the links to what I need for the "programming" part of it. Going to give it a go -- some folks on the forums seem to have done this themselves, but no one has posted exact steps on the programming side.

Don't have a jumper box. Connected it to my Tundra for 30 minutes.

Yup, always do both. I think we had different root causes.

Thanks. As mentioned, I only attempted to jump the car from under the hood. Pics are the +/- terminals I used.

Not sure yet. Just ordered an OBD adapter (OBDLink MV+) rather than trying to check each one. Do you have an idea of which fuses might blow when shorting out the battery at the starter?

Thanks. I've got a 5A charger rated for 120Ah (car battery is 105Ah). I only tried to jump it from under the hood, leaving it connected for 30 minutes, revving the connected vehicle to 2k RPM during attempts to start. After having left the charger on it overnight, the voltage hasn't changed...