I installed the endlinks with the car jacked up, but left the locking nuts loose in order to adjust the endlinks on the ground.
Once I set the length of the endlinks to have no preload, I jacked the car up and torqued the locking nuts.
I had a clunk when I installed my whiteline swaybar + verkline endlinks and it ended being due to loose rod end locking nuts on the endlinks (Retorqued them and it resolved the issue).
I reused the original collar nuts and have had no issues.
Steering wheel was specified as follows: carbon fiber top + flat bottom, perforated leather grips and silver stitching.
Purchased from @NitroYellowMKV.
Please note that there are holes from removing the steering wheel and there is light damage on the airbag cover (as pictured)
The steering...
I personally liked how it sounded. My only gripe was with the carbon fiber exhaust tips turning brown over time.
Here's a sound clip with an ActiveAutowerke downpipe + Borla Atak Exhaust.
I currently have an AWE Resonated Touring and I do miss how the Borla sounds, since you get more turbo...
That's an aftermarket hood though-I don't believe the OEM hood has creases there at all.
I do think that the sharp lines around the headlight area do look really odd and out of place though.
My measurements of center to fender are approximately the same as what you have, however I'm running a different wheel setup:
19x9.5 275/30
19x11 305/30
I currently have a two finger gap between tire and fender on both front and rear.
I recently installed the mentioned setup and placed the helper below the main spring for both front and rear, but as I understand, it effectively does not matter whether it's above or below the main spring.