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I showed "Limit" initially when I picked up the car...After I shut it down and started it back up again "speed limit" was displayed again...

+1

I'll probably have connectors added such that I could easily remove the crossover and reconnect the lines if needed....

Subs get "muddied" if the input signal to the subs' amp is clipped, exceeds it's input threshold voltage, or the sub's amp itself gets maxed out...The JL sub is very capable of handling <200hz with no added bass distortions....Yeah, no doubt this will require some tweaking...Always does...

Oh, I forgot to reply to this... My reasoning for adding 200hz high pass crossovers is more about freeing up OE HK amp headroom and taking full advantage of the powered sub operating range...I want to dedicate the existing HK woofers strictly for upper-mid bass (200~500hz) operating range...As...

The hatch it large enough for me with the box in it...And yeah, I saw a few negative reviews as is the case with most reviews....Far more positive than the few negative comments though...I'm looking for tight deep base not a ghetto boomer...ha!

I plan to lay it flat and close to the rear...Looking from the back with hatch open I would also have it such that the side controls would be on left side closer to the Amp wiring....I wouldn't place it forward as I would not want to block the OE woofer exhaust ports... It's only 5" high so...

Well, I've had a few days with Sport+ mode and here are my impressions: I don't think Sport+ is practical for those who like to use cruise control often as it remains / hangs longer in lower gears and really sucks up gas! And honestly, I find the throttle response to be a bit too sensitive to...

Once you resolve all the other design enclosure issues that I outline in the first post the HK sub's actually sound pretty decent and will handle quite a bit of power...What I've learned over the many many years of doing this (yeah I'm old...ha!) is that the quality of performance isn't...

I had no issues whatsoever...And it was free...I'll pass on the Amsoil too...

nicely done! :thumbsup:

^^ Nice job! :thumbsup: One suggestion...I think it would be a good idea to start a new thread in the Audio Section for this writeup for others to see and comment on your particular audio setup... ------------------------- Side note: And as I mentioned several times within this thread the...

I've used and found that with Dynamat you'll definitely experience less vibration and rattles. That said it seems to have had little to no impact on exhaust noise levels...

If your pleased with it then that all that matters...We'll just agree to disagree here... :thumbsup:

IMO ceramic coat is a waste of money and a detailer con job...And with all cars I've purchased over the years I only PPF the front bumper, headlamps, A-pillars...Two years later and still no chips anywhere and the paint still looks flawless...

It's interesting you say this because the very reason for adding exhaust ports on the narrow rear panel was to eliminate vibrational noise due to the panels being placed directly infront of the chassis exhaust ports restricting exhaust flow and in turn caused hellish vibrations and distortions...

Did you also apply silicone adhesive between the woofer grill and cover plate as I mention in my 1st post? ..Those had quite a bit of vibration until the 2 plates were isolated from one another using that adhesive.... I also stuffed quite a bit of foam in the empty cavities within the subwoofer...

FYI... Just applied adhesive backed felt tape to a number of places around the edges of the plastic rear hatch brake light cover and contacting hatch surfaces....There was a good amount of vibration coming from this plastic cover, particularly obvious during very low bass notes...Vibration from...

@spta97 My concern with using the "peal and seal" would be with respect to odor and outgassing...This may be fine to use in a sealed trunk area, but the Supra has an open hatch area and the odor will be much more noticeable...