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The factory markings should line up on the top half of the bearing to the aluminum piece. When I take mine apart again, I will do that even though I don't think it matters much. The bottom is free to spin all around so it shouldn't matter where it lines up with the top mark with your new...

I've been using this on my BMW for years. Knee pad and wheel pin. It's a must have when using spacers.

From my BMW experience, Sport + changes the traction to dynamic traction control (allows more wheel slip before intervention) as the only difference. The equivalent of that in the supra would be going into sport mode and then pressing the traction button once. edit: Sport+ also turns on the...

Will they make FI-R bore specific for the A90. It's pretty dumb to spend $10k on wheels that require hub adapters.

wow, this sucks. Glad you're okay. Curious to know where this car ends up ...

They will not fit. M2 is 5x120. All newer BMW G chassis are 5x112.

That seems to be the better method. I was trying to move everything up together and get the bearing to snap in place. We kept an Allen key on the strut to help align everything as the jack went up. I'll mess with the sway bar link again and see what happens. If I still have issues I will...

I still had the dust boot glued to bottom part of the bearing. For some reason I made the yellow marks shift a little because the new springs ended in a different location. I don't think the bearing has and actual spot to snap into or else they would not have marked it that way from the factory.

good info ... How confident are you with the traction control issue due to lowering of the car. After installing Eibach springs, I do notice that the car slips a little bit more in sport mode. I've never heard of anyone mentioning this before with BMWs. I never adjusted anything on the height...

My car pops and bangs more now ... or it could just be a placebo effect haha.

That's awesome, glad to hear. Did you still use the same shortcut method? I was having the same issue getting it line up and snap into place properly. I had to eventually put my hand in there to make sure there was not space from where the plastic bearing meets the aluminum strut mount.

Take some videos and post it up too.

It definitely feels better than stock. I do wish it was stiffer though but that might be personal preference. The rear still squats under hard load ... maybe it's just that powerful!

Eibach ... you have my IG also, no lowered pics posted yet.

Yep, same here. I did not see them move based on the marks I made. Mine came off so clean I just put it back together. I was afraid that I might over pack it with grease so I left it alone.

Here are my installed pics. Less than 20 miles on the springs. I measured 25 7/8" and 26 7/8" fender to ground. That works out to 1.125" front and 1" rear.

How did you tighten the end links? I initially put them on with the impact gun. After checking them back with a torque wrench, they were at the 64Nm. Maybe I'm just missing something with this step ...?

I only have about 10 miles on the Eibachs in that video. On my F36, the aftermarket end links got extremely worse over time. I got replacements from airlift, they were quiet for about 500 miles. It was always the tightening of the aftermarket link to the strut, I think it's a size mismatch...

You can hear my sound clearly at the 2:00 minute mark on my video. I've been dealing with end link noise and the bolts coming loose for some time on my F36. It's mainly due to the cheap aftermarket shorter end links that air-lift provides in their kit. I'm on my second set of links and even...

Yes, please let me know what you find. I was hoping it would something simple like the strut bolt not tight all the way.