Solidifying what Rupert just said. I just swapped my rears because of wear and wanted to try the NT555 out. I still have my Michelins up front. DO NOT mix tires. I can barely go 65 now on long turning exit ramps without the diff freaking out and flashing like a disco on me. I'm about to...
I'm planning on replacing my year and a half old set that my buddy gave me and I want to be more OEM looking. I love this set but is my OCD just that severe today that the logo is offset too high? Do you have one that is more centered? That's literally the only thing holding me back from...
It's already been said but buy used if you really really really want to DRIVE one. At the end of the day, it's a depreciating asset. It's just going to keep losing its value the older/used it gets and ownership is very time limited with toys like these. Dont kid yourself in thinking this will...
Yeah had that issue and extended the wire. DO NOT DO THIS. After extending, the voltage dropped from 1.36v to 0.75v. I've since bought a replacement bare connector and will be rewiring it for our cars. Hopefully the shorter wire will work! I got a single shielded wire just for the damn...
Rezzing but I have a post on the JB4tech forums asking the same thing and we are debugging. I'm having the same issue where the Fuel-It app shows e30 but JB4 is showing e15/16 on Pin 4 and with value set to 100 with bit 0.
I know it doesn't do anything but I dont like having to have 2 apps...
The best way is to figure out where your power band is on your turbo. Anything higher you're just blowing hot air anything lower you're lugging the engine. In auto, the computer tries to stay within your power band.
The bish slams on the brakes while backing up from a parking spot that's a little bit on an incline. No one there other than pavement. I guess it saw a the ground and got scared.
I was going to say this as well. Do you have enough amps to start it? Keep that multimeter on it and look at the voltage drop when you hit that start button. I bet it dips below 12v and the battery protection kicks in.
I think the biggest issue is what do you do with the horrible looking bumper when you pull said triangles off. The mounting points, holes, tabs are all under the triangle/lip. You would need to fill, sand, paint, BEFORE you even put a lip on. Now full bumper replacement is a different story...
Definitely. There are tabs you need to pull and bend to 'pull' the bumper to the lip and close the gaps. I just did a buddy's rear MB lip and we pulled the bumper off. That fitment was 9.5/10 because we pulled every single tab. There was only one section that didn't line up because there was...
Gotcha. I was looking for one that smooth it out as well but all I saw were ones with fins. Passed on that and just went OE spec. Full door is a little too much for me. I'm still trying to justify a hood purchase.
I do want to try the carbon fiber strip that deletes the plastic cross hatch...
No issues on fitment on mine but I was kind of disappointed that there is a few splotches of whatever chemical cured underneath. I shot them an online request to no avail.
I have no noticeable gaps on the door garnish but the side and front lips were very noticable. To their credit, I went...
I have mine set at 100mph since CA cops will impound your car if you are caught going triple digits...I leave mine on since she is my daily. I just ignore it when I'm fucking aroung.