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I wonder if the software update is absolutely needed. Would you be able to do it yourself or would you need to take it to a dealer and possibly have the DME locked if you're tuned? Another thing to worry about. o_O

I'm a tire dummy, do you know if the SL rating is fine to run with the Supra? I see that we usually run a XL rating.

I found these on an overview through Google search which links to Instagram. Although, it looks like they might've been deleted from the post so this is the best quality I could find.

To add onto this too, to those who can't get it covered under warranty you can also purchase the BMW Z4's oil pump P/N instead. Costed me around $450 as opposed to going to Toyota who wanted $1100 alone for the pump.

2021 supra build date 7/20, had the oil pump replaced after showing high oil pressure and had a code for it. Plastic oil pump turned out to be cracked after taken out.

I had the EXACT same issues as you. High oil pressure code & unable to measure the oil level means the oil pump is failing as others have said. That being said, I got my oil pump changed and replaced. No more high oil pressure, BUT the smoke on stop lights exactly like yours still occurs. I...

Got the shop video. Not sure if it's the same or not, but looks like it is.

Another issue that seems to have been resolved has been the throttle. It was pretty sluggish and delayed in normal mode but after the change it is better.

No you're not blind lol. I don't see any damage either. I am assuming it's on the other side as I've seen in a video. I will ask the shop if they still have it and can take out the piece.

UPDATE: Old oil pump has been taken out. Supra build date was 7/20. Picture attached under. Was replaced with the new part number for the oil pump. I ordered an updated BMW Z4 oil pump since it was like almost $1000 cheaper. I can now measure my oil to the max and it no longer stops at 18%...

I've just ended up ordering the updated oil pump and sensor. I will post an update on the findings when I get the old pump out. :cool:

Not sure how to upload the .csv since it won't let me.

Did another log with those parameters on. It looks like both VANOS EX act. and VANOS IN act. stay together with VANOS EX req. and VANOS IN req. Is there a specific value I should be looking at or is that fine? Rail pressure is already at 5000 by 1.4k RPMs too.

Gotcha, I see you can log rail pressure in MHD+ and in one log stayed steady at 5000 (not sure what value is considered normal) and dips when RPM drops. As for exhaust vanos, how would you go about logging that?

Yeah the car was warmed up. This was a theory I had too which is why I want to get it replaced. Would there be any issues driving it around as long as it's in normal mode? The car usually peaks at 100psi in that mode.

Also forgot to add, the car was at 112psi at 2.8k RPM with an ambient pressure of 13.51 while in sport mode too. So that leaves us with 98.49psi.

The log shows 0 for setpoint oil pressure. As for the absolute pressure it's low 40ish psi at idle with ambient pressure around 13.7-13.8psi. Gives me the value around 28psi give or take. What should I make of this?

Lmao, for sure thanks. I'll see if I can log it later. As for now, what info does the gauge/relative value give?

Thank you. I realized I've already been logging with the actual oil pressure value offset-corrected (based on ambient pressure) and it's been reading 0 the entire time. Does that indicate another issue?

For reference too, I am about 3000 above sea level.