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it’s really only a few min of extra work to remove all that stuff for the driveshaft

no, that will fail much faster than oem. Just inspect it for wear and replace if it doesn’t look “basically like new.” Trust me, you’ll look at it and either say “that basically looks like new” or “oh that looks kinda worn.” Replace it with oem in the latter case. Hopefully you don’t get a...

I’ve had this issue too. One of my Supra just sits in my garage all the time and when the battery gets low the alarm starts randomly going off. Keep a trickle charger on it and no issues (I literally never drive it)

I run the EOS billet manifold and my buddy Brian (not sure his name on here) runs the 4n. They both work well and either would be a good choice imo.

I’ve also heard this. They seem to have managed to combine the worst of both worlds for manifolds: unequal length AND long runners. Peaky, and laggy. lol

yeah they were made for my car and I helped with the design. their name is my initials (with an X added on the end)

I was going to say “sounds like the diff” but you said more words

verkline uses rodoball’s motorsport line of bearings

I wouldn’t touch that rear arm kit. besides the fact that I’ve got 0 confidence in anything they design, they’re running the same fk bearings that fail on SPL stuff.

I’ll add that my fastest lap last weekend was on a used set of Nankangs and not my fresh P1s. Optimal was .6s faster on the CRS. Other competitors saw the P1 drop off pace after their first fast heat cycle as well… but at least the drop off is not nearly as bad as the TAP!

Yep. Some true GRM gems: - RE71rs gets 2 seconds faster AND has better heat tolerance after months of use/wear - Track Attack Pro has great heat tolerance and wear, and is faster than any other 200tw (I saw one person use these at the last gridlife event and they were comically slow after...

It is quite comical to see them claim that tires with a zillion heat cycles are faster than stickers. I should be charging a premium for my take offs!

Vertical axis doesn't have any meaning either though :p

Yeah, the oem pump is controlled by the car via the LIN bus. I don't know if you can default it to run full duty cycle on ignition or maybe splice the oem control but I assume both are possible. It's a bosch water pump, so it shouldn't be super complicated. You could also throw in a different...

you could run two oem pumps. They’re quite good. Several aftermarket options too but the oem pumps really flow a lot.

it cuts power right when you countersteer and then dumps the weight forward… nice way to find a wall it really is designed to protect people that don’t know how to drive a fast rear drive car having said that, it’s probably safer on the street to just leave it fully on and the street certainly...

If you're asking this question, I'd say to save your money and just enjoy your car as is.

I’ve seen IATs reduced by 40f by spraying meth but have never been close to ambient on track and probably have the most aggressive cooling setup of any track Supra… but you could run 0 boost and spray meth and get there I guess ?‍♂️

An well-designed heat exchanger will improve your IATs, eg PWR. Unfortunately, most of the aftermarket heat exchangers are junk that add weight and massively increase pressure, ie decrease flow, in the low temp system. From my testing, the PWR one is probably the only one worth buying. There may...