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Where in the Door/Key section does it have the option to turn on/off the handle sensor? both fobs have new batteries, just to be sure and finally both sides of the door are inoperable when it comes to the handle sensor.

Yes and no, it does not lock or unlock.

I have a 21 3.0 Premium and when I touch the door handle to unlock it (with my key in my pocket), the car does not unlock. Is there a setting somewhere to allows unlocking without physically pushing a button on the key?

Just wanted to report back that I swapped my 42607-WAA01's with 42607-WAA02's and the car was able to pick them up in 1/4 mile. So even though I followed the same process, the 01's simply did not work in my 2021 3.0 Premium. Hope this helps others in the future.

I ran the DTC 60s in the front and stock rears. I did find the stopping power acceptable for the 200 wear indicator street tires I was running. I found myself breaking at zone 6 on the back straight of VIR after hitting the upper 140’s. In comparison, I would break in zone 3 or 2 in my C7...

I wouldn’t jump to that conclusion so quickly. I recently drove at VIR in 98 degrees weather and after the 2nd run the car threw a “rear axle lock reduced” error and went into limp mode. on the other hand, I have never experienced any sort of overheating issue/limp mode in my M7 C7 Grand Sport...

I wonder how many folks are running sub 2:09 at VIR on a stock supra (except front sway bar + camber plates) in 98 degrees heat. The more I think about this, the more I think it's due to the crazy ambient temp.

Ordered - let see how it does.

I know that happens alot with cars that has lowered suspension and it has to do with the difference in ride height between the front/rear. That, fortunately, isn't my problem so I'm leaning towards the fact that the rear diff just got too hot and it went into limp. Has anyone used any after...

Was at the track this weekend with an ambient temp right around 95 (heat index in the triple digits) and during my 2nd and 3rd runs, the car went into limp mode after throwing the following two errors: 1. Rear axel lock reduced 2. Cont. driving possible: chassis stablization The error would go...

as always, thank you!

I have a 2 part question and appreciate folks’ guidance: Im running a new set of wheels where the factory TPMS isn’t working properly. I’m still going to run these at the track and figure it out when I have time. Aside from the warning message in iDrive, does the car care or would it go into...

All I did was drill 2 holes into a small section of an aluminum flat bar I got from Homedepot. The ideal width is more like 1.5" rather than 2", but it will do. No more rubbing after that.

I heard back from Eibach and here's what they have done - They checked the batch that my sway bar came from and verified that it doesn't rub on their stock, test car. They did try to move the upper-end link position slightly to simulate negative camber and confirmed that it does move the sway...

Just spoke a David from Eibach and he said he's supposed to get a car in today for testing. I will let everyone know once he reaches out.

Here are some additional pictures that I took after making a really crude spacer for the time being (until I hear back from Eibach on next steps). I used a 1/8th" x 2" aluminum plate to make these. After taping the areas that rubbed before with painter's tape, I went for a very short drive and...

Ouch! Mine is very similar and the only reason it looked so close apart is because the suspension is at full droop since it's on my lift. I did a quick measurement when the car is on the ground and it's about 1.5-2" from LCA to Sway bar.

Those are the same exact batch numbers I have. My fix this evening is to make some 1/8" spacers. I then taped the spots it used to rub with masking tape and did some hard cornering - no rubbing so far. I personally would hold off on putting these on your car until I find out some more info...

To close the loop here, I ended up going with Vorshlag's camber plates and the following is what I got on otherwise complete stock setup: Front: -2.5 degrees of camber, 7.2 degrees of caster, 0 tow-in. rear: -2 degress of camber, 1/8th total tow-in Car feels much better on corners.

Nibble, when you run the front DTC60's, what are you using for the rears? Stock pads? On a similar note - I'm having Robin from Girodisc make me a set of titanium shims (f/r) which I should be receiving soon. I have used them in all of my previous cars to isolate the heat from the pads to the...