Thats pretty crappy, i paid 1800 for front half and the worst part of it, that im really not happy with but decided to live with it is a nastsy Frankenstein stitch overlap crap under the front nose. His excuse was i didnt want an cutting on the car so he had to overlap the small filler piece...
When you do a longer pull the cat efficiency goes up because it gets hotter leaving less unburned fuel post cat vs short pulls that leaves some unburned fuel to spotaniously ignite creating the pops.
Looks like your stut tower was pushed back thats why the metal tore, better have a frame guy measure it square or make it square before any metal work.
Right but for 500-750 bucks this shouldnt be an issue we have to deal with. i wasnt happy with the rough finish and loose resin boogers inside the tube either. why risk a 15k engine for a 500 dollar part thats questionable quality for some better sound?
oh in that case the best you could do is match your measurement or visable threads below the collars to what somebody else set them too if you like how their car sits.
worst case set them all equally if they arent already and re adjust them once you can drive it.
No a half inch adjustment wont result in an equal change in ride height, as the spring rate also changes at the same time.
best thing to do is measure all 4 corners stock, install springs and make adjustment until all 4 corners are equal to where u want to be height wise. also after adjusting...