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Get the car, get a European driver side trim piece to balance out the doors, get a new steering wheel, and wrap it in brewster green.

Truth hurts.

Maybe get a set of those vinyl airbag overlay stickers for the visor and have one of those signed. If they would show up in time.

That has Top Gear, err, written all over it. (Terrible dad pun.)

Well, if you’re dumb enough to buy a Nissan Z for any sort of racing…

Got a BLITZ/Cusco/Toyota strut bar? Perhaps one of those bars.

No pictures. Used two Amsoil bottles for the spacing since that’s what was being strapped in. Used a box cutter to make the cuts.

Yep, I have them all turned off and I still get them all in the display.

That’s the video I was talking about.

As my wife said, “Got to make sure a camera’s on him while he apologizes to George.”

Current: Supra ______ (wife’s vehicle is there) Goal: 991.2 GT3 Touring Older Carrera 4S for the winter

For sure, if the attachments are the same then the only real downside I could see is nonexistent. Err, wait, is this where I was supposed to act petty and insecure because you corrected me? ?

Not the lines themselves but the attachment points. My understanding is there is less flexibility where the lines attach on aftermarket stainless than OEM. Issue being more so on the caliper side than the vehicle. How many failures that has caused, IF any, I don’t know. Could be bullshit that I...

Ooh, that’s pretty. Right color, right engine, and because it’s the right engine it has the right wheels. One of the absolute best OEM wheel to vehicle combo ever. Exactly why I want to go dark silver powder coat for my OEM wheels.

Uneducated opinion: only change to stainless lines if it’s a track car only. If you drive it on the road stick with the OEM lines. Reason being, flexibility.

Because only those of us in the states are stupid enough to fall for the special marketing.

6.) Make room in the garage to store it.

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