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Don't be this guy. Use an escrow service, not a stupid personal check.

Daytona low pro long reach when I'm lazy Quickjack BL5000SLX when it's time to put on my man pants

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No.

1) Don't overthink this. The official oil spec for Supra is API SN, which is not even specifically formulated to prevent LSPI. 2) The oil you've purchased is conformant with the official API oil category recommended by Toyota. 3) Calcium is a detergent. You can still have a pretty high amount...

I ran aftermarket front + OEM rear for 2+ years. Recently added the aFe rear when I got around to my SPL install.

Your criteria is met by any sway bar on the market when installed correctly. I use an aFe sway bar up front set to full stiff, and there was a marked improvement in steering feel as a result. I'm sure other sway bars would be similarly enjoyable. I don't drive my car 10/10 on a track, but it...

Yep!

Speaking of part numbers, anyone that wants to look up their own can go to: 1) Partsouq for J29 Supra -- find the general location of the part on the left, then the specific subsystem of the part in the matrix on the page. 2) Partsouq for G29 Z4 -- find the part category on the left, then the...

On any gasoline vehicle: Somewhere in the range of 14.5 to 14.9 (bouncing) is typical for idle and cruising. Somewhere in the range of 12.0 to 13.0 is common for WOT, with values clustered around 12.5 being most likely. Some cars might even go to ~15 or ~16 for low RPM highway cruising to...

It doesn't matter which one you pick. They will both work. Choose on price.

If you want a true 4" TBE, it's gonna be a little low. I did not have any clearance issues with my Leviathan, and I am lowered. Ran it for quite a while. The camera angle you are highlighting does make the clearance look smaller than it actually is. I now have a single exit 4" TBE (custom), and...

Pretty damn attractive, IMO. Just jumped to the top of my "utility car" consideration list.

This is my supposition as well. Only plug 6 stays off.

Is a tune needed for these: no. Could you get a CEL? Yes. Is a tune needed to remove this CEL? Yes. Edit: Could your vehicle extract more performance from these parts if you did get a tune? Yes.

Yes I did. The studs used a 6mm hex end for install, which is typically a 1/4" drive socket. There wasn't enough leverage on my ¼ wrenches to break them free, and the bit was looking mighty stressed with hand tools. Some vibe from impact was required. Glad yours were easier, though!

New turbo, factory tune = drive gently and try to stay out of boost completely. Still drivable. New turbo, base map = do what your tuner tells you, probably WOT a few times to get data New turbo, final tune = send it whenever

I just removed a set of steel ones for titanium ones, and the steel ones were in there good with 25ftlbs and loctite blue. Had to gun them out.

1) Fill plug on passenger side of the trans. 8mm allen key required. 2) Drain plug on bottom. 8mm allen key required. 3) You will need a fluid transfer pump, so get one before you start. 4) With the transmission totally cold, fill the transmission pan with trans fluid until it dribbles out...