A91-MT On chassis Dyno - 340 WHP

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Just me and you so far. @NitroYellowMKV was supposed to have it on a dynojet last week.



Pretty sure yeah. I think without it, the car senses it's not actually moving and throws a bunch of codes.



Is there a huge variance? So far I've only seen two results posted of the manual and they're relatively close at least on dynojet. I understand what you're getting at but a general number is the entire point of these threads. It was celebrated when the 2021+ came out with higher HP on the dyno. If the MT comes out and multiple owners report less than expected then that should be noted as well.
We we accidently did not get the vehicle into Dyno mode properly, did not press the button the last time to confirm, and yeah that pissed it right off. The car refused to rev over 3500 RPM even after getting it into Dyno mode properly, so I had to drive it back to the shop to clear all the codes, then we got the runs. When I first set out to clear the codes there was many many many warnings, including a body control warning, axle lock warning, and steering warning. The steering wheel was heavy, heavier then sport mode but not no-steering-assist heavy. All those issues cleared them selves in less then a mile of driving, but the CEL stayed on with no drivability issues until cleared. I didn't read all the codes in the system when I cleared it, they didn't really matter to me because they were all false codes caused by running on a dyno not in dyno mode, but there was ALOT of codes stored. We did try to clear them with a small code reader that worked with another guys phone, but that didn't work, I needed to go back and use a factory scan tool. The dyno owner did not have a scan tool that would work.
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We we accidently did not get the vehicle into Dyno mode properly, did not press the button the last time to confirm, and yeah that pissed it right off. The car refused to rev over 3500 RPM even after getting it into Dyno mode properly, so I had to drive it back to the shop to clear all the codes, then we got the runs. When I first set out to clear the codes there was many many many warnings, including a body control warning, axle lock warning, and steering warning. The steering wheel was heavy, heavier then sport mode but not no-steering-assist heavy. All those issues cleared them selves in less then a mile of driving, but the CEL stayed on with no drivability issues until cleared. I didn't read all the codes in the system when I cleared it, they didn't really matter to me because they were all false codes caused by running on a dyno not in dyno mode, but there was ALOT of codes stored. We did try to clear them with a small code reader that worked with another guys phone, but that didn't work, I needed to go back and use a factory scan tool. The dyno owner did not have a scan tool that would work.

Don't know if this matters, but, are you using the correct final drive gearing also?

3.154 for the AT
3.460 for the MT

I think Toyota have it wrong on their e-brochure.

On another note: Would be interesting to put AT and MT back to back on the same Dyno.
 
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Don't know if this matters, but, are you using the correct final drive gearing also?

3.154 for the AT
3.460 for the MT

I think Toyota have it wrong on their e-brochure.

On another note: Would be interesting to put AT and MT back to back on the same Dyno.
The dyno didnt seem to have an input for gear ratio, but I did ask the operator if it matters and he said very very little.
I might be able to arrange to go back with a stock Auto Supra, but that might not happen until next year. If no one posts about it or brings it up until its possible for me to do so I will, I would like to also know when all variables are even, which puts down more and by how much.
 

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That's a limp mode power curve.
 

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That's a limp mode power curve.
A very accurate measure of power to the ground is quarter mile trap speed. Get a Dragy and make some quarter mile and 60-130 mph runs and you'll know where you stand. There are various calculators online that correlate trap speed and vehicle weight and give accurate horsepower numbers.
 
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A very accurate measure of power to the ground is quarter mile trap speed. Get a Dragy and make some quarter mile and 60-130 mph runs and you'll know where you stand. There are various calculators online that correlate trap speed and vehicle weight and give accurate horsepower numbers.
Oh man, I've never driven on a drag strip or properly launched a car. I mean I've given my FJ a full send-it several times, but I don't think that would work on this car. I' m not sure relying on my 1/4 mile times will do this car justice.
 

65sohc

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You're right in that quarter mile "times" are not a good gauge of power since they are so dependent on launch traction. However, trap speed is much less affected by launch and is a very good indicator. I've never run on a strip either but Dragy has proven to be every bit as accurate. My best quarter mile is 11.52@128 mph. That trap indicates my ET would be in the 10's with decent traction.
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