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Did the CDV delete months ago and the difference is very noticeable, not sure how one could say it's not. Your point/experience with clutch engagement in this car is spot on. The clutch pedal throw is too long, the pedal sits too high. I believe this is why the engagement point is so high on...

I think you need to turn it a little more, hard to tell from the angle. This is the best picture I could get of what my driver side looks like through the wheel. Did you use the lower OEM rubber perch? To me it caused too much compression of the spring, so I removed it. I was metal on metal...

You have to turn the rear spring, it's not sitting straight, has a bit of a bend to it. That what little triangle on the left upper perch should be toward the front of the car and about 25 degrees inward of center. The right should be pointing toward the rear with the triangle 25 degrees inward...

Are there varying thicknesses available? The ones I've seen are much thicker than stock, almost as if they have one of those old padded steering wheel covers on them. Not throwing stones or anything, to each their own.

Believe it's the following, but have not verified. Toyota Absolutely Red 3P0

Just did the install, worst part is the junction box wiring. There's no room to work and no slack in the wiring. https://www.canchecked.de/wp-content/uploads/Installation-instruction-Supra-MK5.pdf

Do I need it...probably not. However, I didn't need everything else I've bought for the car. Looking for real time visibility into the telemetry data. Never been a fan of cell phone mounts, nor do I want to drive around with a tablet or laptop. When I go down the tuning rabbit hole, I want to...

How is the CanChecked MFD32? Been looking at it but haven't seen too many reviews and what I've seen have been mixed.

How is it with the flat bottom? Looks great, but I wonder if it becomes an annoyance and bothersome when turning the wheel over.

Yes, I made a mistake, I saw it on the arm at one point and that was the first thing that came to mind (probably bc I was still pissed about the SPL end links). I didn't give it any further thought, obviously I should have. Anyway, thanks for confirming.

If you look at some of the rear and front suspension arms you'll see SPL. on them.

I installed the VTT diff brace prior to the engine and transmission mounts, and didn't notice any additional NVH. I did solid diff bushings on another car and additional NVH was very noticeable, but I was younger and didn't care as much. Currently I have both engine mount inserts and the VTT...

I bought the front and rear SPL end links in December (wish I didn't). When installing them the helm joints were so stiff it was near impossible to move them. Two of the end links had joints that I couldn't even move until I put the end link in a vise and used a pipe to work the ball around...

Swapped the transmission mounts, idle is tolerable. Not seeing a need to remove the engine mounts to cut or remove the top piece. If I decide to go Femto and all, I'll most likely swap back to the Powerflex transmission mounts and raise the idle a little bit. I do like it better with both the...

That's interesting, I jacked at the same point. The only difference I can think of is that I swapped the transmission mounts before doing the inserts. I might take the transmission mounts out to see if I can feel any difference vs stock, as I did both transmission and engine at the same time...

That's crazy, you can't adjust the idle on your car anymore, that's a serviceable function. Allow adjustments within a bound range to ensure the car still meets regulations and legal what nots.

Basically as the title states, I have a 2024 MT and I'd like/need to raise the RPM at idle to offset the resonance induced by swapping the engine and transmission mounts. I wasn't planning on adding a tune or anything as the car has plenty of power for the street, so I'd rather not go through...

The passenger side is easy once you swing the downpipe out of the way. Not sure how they did the driver side w/o taking the bracket out, they also didn't show how they did it.

Was able to take it out for a little bit, still a ton of sand on the roads. It's not that bad except when idling. Have to figure out how to increase idle RPM. The power is there as soon as you press on the pedal, which is what I wanted, no lag, twisting or hop. I did motor mount inserts...

Went with Powerflex inserts and transmission mounts (yellow), plus VTT diff lockdown. Will be a couple weeks before I'll drive it, the roads are covered in salt and sand. Also, working on a couple of other things so it's still in the air.