Bought the clip. I cannot count the number of times I've reached up to swing the visor around towards the driver-side window, only to remember Toyota absolutely sucked at the interior design of this car and locked the visor in place.
Installed the braces for the front mounts today. Only took a 13mm flex head wrench, a 13mm wobble socket, a short extension, and a 19mm wrench. Super easy. Didn't have to disassemble a damn thing. Took me 20 minutes.
Can confirm no extra NVH whatsoever. Rear brace next.
But compression ratio is set by the piston and cylinder geometry. Changing from PI to DI (or vice versa) on the same car does not and cannot change that relationship. You are correct to say that DI allows for an engine design with higher CR versus an equivalent motor with PI. But keeping the car...
Agree. Power is based on the AFR, CR, displacement, timing, and (distantly relative to the first four) IAT. PI or DI do not change the fundamentals that determine power.
Run multi-map and use the 93 map on steering wheel, because the map is for 93 or better. Switch to the 91 map on the steering wheel when you pump 91. This all makes a lot more sense when you have the app and can read the text descriptions of each tune.
The multi-map automatically scales engine timing/power as ethanol content increases. The OEM fuel setup can handle up to E60 without any issues. E60 + Multi-Map is going to be the biggest power combo on the stock turbo and stock fueling. There are multiple multi-maps configured for the base...
If you have an ethanol sensor kit installed, you use the BM3 multi-map and follow the instructions on that map. You use the steering wheel buttons to load a configuration within that tune. The configurations don't change power, but do change things like burble settings. For example: the 93...
If all you ever wanna do is give the car some more pep and tune out some codes: BM3. BM3 is really good at this, actually. The app is user friendly, the pre-made tune maps are fine and the initial setup is very easy for the user.
HOWEVER: If you have even an inkling that you'll want more...
...Buried deep in the settings menu there are two settings: one for if the car is hybrid or has auto-start/stop (turned it on) and the other for sensitivity to voltage drop during cranking (changed from high to low)...
With how readily my Maxton lip has been absolutely sandblasted by road crap in under a year, it makes me wonder how any of you can genuinely entertain the idea of slapping $1000+ in carbon down there.
Thanks, @suicidaleggroll. Seems these OBD ports are temperamental.
Posting back and forth about this gave me some "rubber ducky troubleshooting" thoughts and I decided to dig into the Banks settings thinking it was something with the gauge. Turns out: yes. Buried deep in the settings menu there...
So I've been using Banks gauges for a while and they mostly don't turn on with the car. If you unplug and replug on the OBD port, it works fine, but they just don't power on with the vehicle. I've also had some situations where my ECUtek adapter is getting power but cannot talk to the vehicle...
Swapped from Twisted Tuning to PowerFlex Street transmission mounts, and swapped from Verus engine mounts to Black Forest engine mounts. I'm so glad I did the work. The TT+Verus combo is just too much for the street (great products for track, though).
First time I did the engine mounts it took...
Update: If I had the choice between driving my car with the Verus mounts some more, or buying the Black Forest mounts five times... I'd buy the Black Forest mounts five times. They are so much more sane than the Verus mounts, and you still cannot rock the engine.
IMHO there's only one worthy...