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Did you get it replaced under warranty? Lexus replaced all my chipped badges no questions asked.

Warm it up first though :)

Social media is a disease that needs to be wiped from the Earth.

Hang in there guys... I had to wait almost 8 years for my Lexus IS-F to have a tune.....first it was mail your ECU in and they reprogram it...then a year or so later they were able to do it via USB. We are incredibly lucky that the DME is shared with many popular BMW cars.

I highly doubt there will be any major changes to the car - besides any tacked on pieces. This car is done in 2024/5 and most likely will not be coming back after that. Enjoy it while you can!

I know many folks who have done it - many of them are big into racing and love their cars. They moved from liberal braindead California to Montana.

There are more changes than just the head, you are better off putting in the whole engine or trading in the car on a 2021+.

In my experience with other cars, Ohlins and Penske are top tier product - I would choose them over KW all the time. Do we know what spring rates are being use on the Ohlins?

Swift is one of the better spring producers in the aftermarket - they verify spring rates, etc and are used by many OEM race teams. I was actually surprised to hear that some folks had binding/clunking issues as usually Swift would have that figured out from the beginning...

I wish we had a true tested/configured application for suspension for this car. Many of the lowering springs are not matched to the shock valving which result in a bouncy ride or in the worst case - result in losing mechanical grip. Swift is supposed to be one of the top end Japanese springs...

I really wish we could get an authentic GT4 Spoiler so we know that the thing actually is functional. Besides that I feel (my opinion) that the Artisan Spirit GT wing fits the car perfectly.

That is not correct at all - opening up the exhaust will allow the turbo to spool faster. The whole "losing backpressure" is nothing but a old wive's tale on today's cars. What is most likely happening is the CEL is putting a car into limp mode of some type. I would suggest to the original...

I believe there has been discussion about when folks change to aftermarket wheels / tires and they need to modify the settings in the "My Vehicle" tire settings to be non-oem in order to keep the traction control from coming on...

I'm taking the bespoke sports car chassis instead of one that was made to be a street car first and a sports car second. The M2 is heavier than a supra as well.

From what I was reading in another thread, when tuners began looking at the tunable '21 supras, they had an internal code in the ECU referring to them as "A91".

I noticed the same thing in my '21 while manually shifting - I wish the car had a shift beep or shift light in the HUD. When I'm going wide open throttle in a long straight, I just shift before the red, not at it...the car is dropping power as you go up in the RPMs anyway...

That's interesting - Swift is supposed to have less coils to bind on and usually are the better manufacturer who verifies their spring rates. Do you have any pics of the Swift springs before the install? They should have less coils than other brands.

Isn't the exhaust valve on the passenger side, not the driver's side? hmmm

Look into Swift Springs before installing the Eibachs. Swift is a quality manufacturer and has springs that will not bind, unlike many of the other aftermarket springs.

Old thread, but I came here looking for this too. I set one of the buttons on the seat (for me I use "2" as its easy to find quickly) to be in driving mode, and use the other to back the seat completely up to get in/out easier and to not put wear on seat/wheel if possible. My Lexus IS-F moves...