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That would be asking a lot of any stock clutch. I still don't see how that means stock clutch can only handle stock power. It would be very unusual for engineers to not design in any headroom. I'm just saying so far we don't know the limits and we're not seeing widespread failures either.

Not sure how you came to that conclusion. I've only see 1 failure on here and he was on stock power and we got no details on the failure. Nitro hasn't had a failure yet to my knowledge. Just an intermittent issue. 1 other member seemed to be having a tune issue, not a clutch issue. TJ was...

He built it into a drift car and the clutch let go after the first session. He had an MHD tune on the car and catless DP. 91 octane I believe.

This! Any ETA on that?

I absolutely loved the north course on my motorcycle. I'm hoping to take the Supra out to VIR this year for my free track day.

Yeah you have every right to be upset with the options they’ve given you. Also I don’t think they can just void your entire power train warranty for replacing a clutch. These dealerships love to just throw out crap like that. You definitely shouldn’t have to go that route anyway and I wouldn’t...

Thank you. Could not have said it any better. It's hard to take some of these people seriously with some of these posts. People love to jump to conclusions and freak out about stuff before the facts come out. I’m personally not concerned at this point but will be waiting for more information to...

What were the symptoms as it started to fail?

I agree this car is harder to heel/toe than my previous cars. I have to be very aggressive with the throttle. This mostly applies to casual driving since I’m not on the brakes hard and it’s a bit of a reach to get the throttle in that far fast enough with light braking. Double clutching is fine...

Any details on what’s actually failing? I’ve got a little over 3000 miles on mine so far and haven’t had any issues.

As a former WRX and STi owner, I know your pain. Hope it's nothing serious and I appreciate you being the sacrificial lamb testing out tuning on the MT.

Sorry but this seems absurd to me. Driving 300 miles and paying that kind of money for an oil change? It costs about $90 for everything you need and can be done in a driveway in less than 30 minutes.

I've been racing on a G25 for about 15 years lol. Finally looking to upgrade to the Simagic Alpha mini.

I went and looked it up: Definitely a tedious process. I’m guessing it’s not possible to permanently code this.

Bingo. Not sure why everyone acts like this is so complicated.

The only time it’s necessary is on steep hills like other people have mentioned. I live in NC and there are plenty of steep hills around here. It’s not something I’ve had to do super often but occasionally it’s the best option. Can I do it without the handbrake? Sure but it can be tricky with...

If your goal is to set the fastest lap times, get the auto. If you’re doing it for the experience and enjoy the added engagement of the manual, go for that one. It just depends what you’re interested in.

From what I’ve read, 7k should be fine (time should also be a consideration if it’s not your daily). If you’re worried about it, you can do an oil analysis and they can give you a recommendation. From other people’s analysis, 9k seems like the upper limit. 7k seems like plenty of buffer.

What the hell is wrong with people in this thread? Who heel toes for hills? Normally you’d hold the handbrake while giving some gas and letting out the clutch until it holds itself. Obviously we can’t do that in these cars so it has the hill assist which works better than other cars I’ve been...

Lots of bad info already in this thread. Off to a great start.