I have a set of Beta tools. God are they expensive (but quality). I know my buddy is a dealer for them in the states but when you can get almost the same quality for a lot less, it's hard to recommend anyone pick up anything from Beta these days.
Honestly, I would much rather have the rods chassis mounted as looks aside, if it's gonna rip off at 150 mph+ down a track straight, then that does me no good.
Edit: nevermind. I'm an idiot. It's a signal connection, but now to figure that out. Thanks for giving me a sanity check.
Also added, in case anyone else needed to add wiring to it.
@Twisted Tuning, you wouldn’t happen to know the pin out for the 4 pin analog output on the ECA-2 by chance? Trying to connect a analog gauge (Innovate ECF-1) and I’d need to swap ethanol sensors out.
I just got a catted downpipe for two reasons.
Emissions and not having to worry about swapping back and forth every two years (can be coded out via a tune but not via a piggyback).
I like my car not smelling like a gas station. I did it once on a previous car and ended up going to a 200 cel...
They are well worth it. I'm sure the Eibachs are just as good. A stiffer sway bar makes the handling much more predictable and not scary at the near limit. I'm sure the Cusco ones are a well worth upgrade but I wanted adjustability and originally wanted the Eibachs but here we are.
All I know is that there was no ETA and I couldn't get a straight answer from any of the vendors I deal with or Turn14. I just went with AfE as they were the only other ones that made adjustable endlinks.
Eibach stopped making the sway bars from what I've been told. That's why I went with AfE ones instead. Dropping the rear subframe to do the rear uppers and swaybar sucks.
Best case, it's a two to three day turn around to any of the tuners that has an unlock kit so if you can suffer for that long, it might be worth doing if you want to get a flash tune. Otherwise, a piggyback is your best option until you're ready.