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I'll have to see if I can get the OEM display connected at the same time as the Xtrons unit for the pairing, but if it works, I'll use that. Or wait a week or two for the replacement LVDS cable...

So it's an XTrons 3/4 series Android unit, sku is QGB24EVB12THL, you can find it here Few more photos from some other angles: Probably possible to get it closer to the dash, but it's pretty much riding the dash so the further back you go, the higher is has to go. Mount: I designed/printed...

Now time to re-assemble my dash and code the aux thing!

Not that I can tell - other than I can actually hear the exhaust around 2k rpm now...

Custom built.

Had a Helmholtz resonator fabricated to combat drone from ~1900 to ~2300 RPM - seems to do the trick too.

Google Lens says Niche Vice.

Rear diffuser looks like an antique.

Meanwhile, my poor car:

+1 for second group buy.

Same as everyone else. Took about 4 business days, shipped on the 14th from Canada and got it back on the 18th. They turned it around the day they got it. DHL didn't even try to charge me some bullshit made up duty charge either.

My sister too.

I'll admit that, when I first had my '20, I used to get a kick from getting it up to 72km/h in 3rd, downshift into 2nd, and unleash the 21 gun salute. Much prefer the MT with my melon cannon exhaust for really deep throaty burbles.

PEMP makes a display that you can buy on Amazon, and while you'll still have the 'cant verify the fitment' problem, assuming you don't butcher it when checking the bolt pattern, you could then just return it (cuz Amazon) if it's not going to work.

RIP that little groundhog that Lewis destroyed. Explains his damage. Lando:

It's the variant of TE37 - I think the TE37 SL has some extra material machined out of the bore or something to save weight so the center caps for other Rays wheels just don't fit. Back when I got my hands on the adapters, they looked like this: The adapter fits into the wheel using a rubber...

Afaik for any rays caps, you need an adapter since the SL isn't really meant for a cap (something about weight savings and racing...) and, assuming your friend has the standard te37 fitment, the adapter will hit the rear hub long before it is all the way into the wheel. There is another thread...

The pipe work leading to the turbo is baffled too (the picture of the intake on the BMS website still seems to have the stock piping). I replaced the intake (CTS) and turbo inlet pipe (also CTS) at the same time though, so I can't really say how much of a difference it will make. I get loud...

All I said was don't poke the bear - damn it. Bear status: Poked

Please don't. I wish you had read the other 135 pages of this thread so that you could understand that you just don't poke that particular bear ;) .