They are but since Bimmer remote is actually working on fixing everything in a timely manner, I would say that’s fine. I wouldn’t mind being a paying test victim as long as everything is sorted out, with no extra cost at the end. I do the same thing with customers and Whipple supercharger tunes...
I let my car run for 5-10 min after lapping. Gives the turbo time to cool down so you don’t bake oil inside it and end up with a failure.
pretty sure I also read that the water pump stays on after the car is shut down to help cool everything. Shuts off when the fan does.
I love it here too. However….. in the back of my head, I know I can sell my house and use the equity to buy a house cash in az. Then I could work at Autozone and still live comfortably.
This thread has shown me the people who think they know stuff actually don’t, vs people who just don’t know what they are posting. Without actual pressure drop differences from one side of the intake to the other, everyone is just guessing that it sucks. Chances are, in that aspect of things...
I normally just spin the piston clockwise a few rotations, then press it in. Spin it a few more times, press it in. Never had any issues doing it that way. Parking brake off and not in service mode.
I just bed them until I literally have no brakes. If your wheels arent solid black by the time you are done bedding, you didnt bed enough.
And as @Vegas17 said, its always a good idea to clean the rotors off first. I typically use a wire wheel on a drill.
The little metal bushing you put in to offset shaft size vs bearing ID. I run ohlins and was the first to do it. So I had to make my own. I am the reason why they offer the ohlins solution. My design.