I originally had a different set of MSH studs for about 2 years but I needed longer ones and wanted to change lug size so I've had that exact set you linked for about half a year now, still look to be in good shape and I've tracked it in the rain. I bought these nuts...
I had a chuckle because I find this ironic. Yes I know your car is wildly different than the way it looks in your PFP but the lighting in your PFP makes it look close to his car color and also that it might have yellow DRL.
For initial bed in, 10ish medium pressure brakes from 50 to 30 at varying speed reductions. Once they're warm then 5ish hard brakes from 50 to 10 but not activating ABS. Once really hot then extremely hard brake to ABS 3ish times.
For track, when on the out lap drag the brake to warm them up...
No issues, they're great and all noise has gone away. I am running on medium stiffness now as I needed to reduce understeer since I'm tracking more often and autocross is less of a priority for me.
Spoke with previous owner and he's given me great advice on what to do and will let me bug him with any questions I have, love having supportive local drivers.
I also went to NCM this past weekend and used those tires I mentioned previously. I had 3 months of rust to shake off and confidence in...
I'll upload some pics when I get home. Yes they're Tolleson's MCS he was selling so I should be able to get them fully legal but I don't care too much about being nationally legal, just close enough that my local competitors won't care but I reap the benefit of better suspension for the track.
I picked up a set of MCS 2WR suspension from a someone local to me and was hoping someone here could send me a picture of a fully built front shock. Ideally both uninstalled and installed. Or if I can get some guidance on what all from the OEM shock I need to move over such as this white plastic...
Very different skill sets. Read the course, execute, and refine it to get the best "lap time" within limited runs on a configuration you've never run before. Much tighter car control and you can't recover from a mistake in the same way since elements are back to back where as road courses you...
Rock between behind the front rotor and the shield. Reverse for a bit and it might work itself loose, otherwise remove the wheel and look and pry it out with a screwdriver.
Did my first transmission fluid change ever. I found out the hard way the torque wrench I had on hand wasn't going to cut it when I overtorqued one of the pan bolts and broke it. Luckily it wasn't too hard to remove since the bolt threads through an open hole so I could start reversing it from...
I'm a bit curious how easy/difficult it'd be to fabricate some replacement aluminum plates to replace the uprights or add a bracket to change the angle of attack even more. Doesn't seem like it'd be all that hard.
https://autoparts.worldtoyota.com/ is running 25% off all parts right now if anyone wants to pick up OEM pads for really cheap. I ordered front and rear pads all in for $231.21. Figured I'd go ahead and grab a spare set since the PMu's are still on unknown back order.
Looks like they did list the wing with the taller uprights so you don't have to buy them separately. Same price as the original height wing. https://www.adro.com/products/toyota-gr-supra-a90-at-r2-v2
Maybe 3 to 4 weekends at other tracks then once I finally went to RA it took 1 day but I had put in a few hours on asetto corsa to pick my initial braking zone. Using a sim will really get you comfortable with picking and executing braking zones. Easy one to start with is the motul sign then...
Not OEM, it's square titan 7 ts5 at 18x10.7. I actually have been running kuhmo v730s 275 or 265 depending up front. Can't really say on those cause my 275s I corded from rubbing the front fender liner due to rockingham speedway having really rough transitions from oval to infield so I only got...