For people looking for a wheel lug bolt/nut upgrade: BONOSS Forged Lug Bolts/Nuts

wack

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So, I had a few stripped lug bolts recently (too much ugga dugga from the tire shop I used to go to, never again). Maybe it could have been my own error, or my 6 point socket is no good, but my suspicion is all that air impact torquing down the bolts weakened the points of the head.
And I wanted to avoid that happening in the future, so I looked around for stronger/upgraded lug bolts.

The only option I found was BONOSS, a Chinese company specializing in forged spacers and lug bolts and nuts. Their site is wonky so you can't actually find the product within their site navigation.
This is the link for the Supra lug bolts: https://www.bonoss.com/product/bonoss-toyota-supra-extended-wheel-bolts-cai

The usual steel grade used for nuts and bolts is 10.9, whereas these are forged and rated to 12.9. So they are harder and have a greater tensile strength.

Having said that, I have experience buying raw steel overseas and in general, the ratings of Chinese-manufactured metal were not to be trusted for highly specified applications. So I know there is that risk of getting inferior quality steel....

Time will tell if they are actually more durable than the OEM lug bolts. But they are nice looking with the red collars. The collars are not actually attached to the lug bolt head, so they could potentially separate and get stuck in the recess... But that's not something I'm personally worried about because the wheels come off at least every 6 months if not more often. If you are worried about it, you could put antiseize on the bottom of the collar where it mates with the recess in the wheel. (Make sure the antiseize doesn't get on the threads)

Shipping was insanely fast, I have no idea how a package gets from China to NY in 2 BUSINESS DAYS. Ordered them on Nov 14 at 9pm, and they were delivered at 6pm on Nov 17... :confused1:

I'm not a fan of wheel studs, so I'm glad they have lug bolts. They also have them in a variety of thread lengths, so if you are using any spacers, just add the thickness of your spacers to 27mm (technically 28mm is OEM, but 1 mm doesn't make a difference here). If you do have a stud conversion, the forged lug nuts could be a nice upgrade.

With all this said, they are very pricey. Speed Industry has the OEM lug bolts in stock for $3/ea, Toyota has them for $4/ea, whereas these are $6.59/ea + about ~$20 shipping.
I used a coupon code asd15, but the sale is ending today Nov 17. If you email them, they will probably send you another coupon. They also mentioned they send them via email, so if you sign up for an account, they may send you coupons?

I really don't want to deal with a stripped lug bolt again, so here goes. Will report back if I have any issues... I will try to update again in 6 mo to a year after they have gotten some use, but if I forget, ping me and I will do an update.
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wack

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I installed the bolts yesterday. They do seem tougher than the OEM bolts.
However, I did have another thought while I was putting them in.

Technically, you shouldn't have mismatched steel for fastener and thread, because whichever is stronger may strip the other. The wheel hub threads are almost certainly made of 10.9 grade steel. Today, I've looked at engineering forums and gotten advice from mechanical engineers and the common wisdom is:

DON'T DO IT!!!!
Especially in a high vibration application like wheel hub bolts!

It makes more sense to replace bolts with a stripped head, than replace a stripped hub thread.

So I'll be taking these out and just using the OEM bolts and having spares on hand to replacestripped ones. They are technically wear items, so I'll just be replacing them completely every 2 years. Now that I have the tools and know how to remove a stripped lug bolt, I'm not so worried about it.

If you do decide to use 12.9 grade bolts, just be warned: hub thread damage is possible and the torque specs are different because the stretch of 10.9 vs 12.9 bolts will be different. You won't get the same clamping force using the same lb-ft torque after upgrading to 12.9 steel. Use at your own risk.
 

razorlab

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I installed the bolts yesterday. They do seem tougher than the OEM bolts.
However, I did have another thought while I was putting them in.

Technically, you shouldn't have mismatched steel for fastener and thread, because whichever is stronger may strip the other. The wheel hub threads are almost certainly made of 10.9 grade steel. Today, I've looked at engineering forums and gotten advice from mechanical engineers and the common wisdom is:

DON'T DO IT!!!!
Especially in a high vibration application like wheel hub bolts!

It makes more sense to replace bolts with a stripped head, than replace a stripped hub thread.

So I'll be taking these out and just using the OEM bolts and having spares on hand to extract stripped ones. They are technically wear items, so I'll just be replacing them completely every 2 years. Now that I have the tools and know how to remove a stripped lug bolt, I'm not so worried about it.

If you do decide to use 12.9 grade bolts, just be warned: hub thread damage is possible and the torque specs are different because the stretch of 10.9 vs 12.9 bolts will be different. You won't get the same clamping force using the same lb-ft torque after upgrading to 12.9 steel. Use at your own risk.
So many things wrong in this post and this thread. The biggest one is that wheel bolts are not torque to yield, the second biggest offense is your statement "They seem tougher".

Going back to OEM bolts is the best decision made here for you.
 
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wack

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So many things wrong in this post and this thread. The biggest one is that wheel bolts are not torque to yield, the second biggest offense is your statement "They seem tougher".

Going back to OEM bolts is the best decision made here for you.
LMAO my humblest apologies for my "offense" :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:
In any case, your curmudgeonry is highly appreciated as always 👍
 
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