Wobble/Chug After New Wheels and Tires

[pittperson]

After having the wheels put on, I took it off the jack stands, put it in reverse, and it went nowhere. It revved up to 4000 RPM but wouldn’t move until I really stomped the gas. It would move forward a bit. It now moves in drive and reverse, but there is it wobble that seems to be coming from the rear. Imagine rolling a pool cue that is not straight or driving on rear oval tires. Leads me to believe it may be a damaged u-join or axle, thinking I may have missed the diff when jacking the rear, but I see no damage to the diff cover or anything around it.

The car is lowered on Swift Springs.

I jacked it from the approved jackpoint in the front, put it on jack stands, then jacked it from the rear diff and lowered down onto the rear jack stands.

Never had it aligned after the springs. could it be something as simple as that with the larger wheels in the rear?

Wheels are 19x9.5 in front and 19x11 in the rear. 275/30 and 305/30.

Any ideas?

Sponsored

 

[outxlove]

Are your new wheels clearing the brake calipers? ?? you should have practically zero issues besides maybe rubbing a bit with a different wheel and tire setup. Pull off the new wheels and put the old ones and see if the issue persists.

 

[strohw]

Start simple. Pull each wheel off and look at the back of them for any damage or fouling. I've learned my lesson in the past in that if something does not move freely or makes a noise...I immediately stop and look over my work.

 

[pittperson]

I’ll be putting the old wheels back on tomorrow and testing things.

 

[Okvilln]

Are the new wheels hubcentric? That may explain the wobble but not the throttle hesitation

 

[Bundy]

It revved up to 4000 RPM but wouldn’t move until I really stomped the gas.

The car did not move and you thought stomping the gas was the natural and best solution?

 

[Axix23]

maybe its a new wheel/tire issue. I always use the side jack points. I don't feel comfortable jacking up the point next to the rear diff. That's just me.

 

[pittperson]

Are your new wheels clearing the brake calipers? ?? you should have practically zero issues besides maybe rubbing a bit with a different wheel and tire setup. Pull off the new wheels and put the old ones and see if the issue persists.

Yep. The front is tight, but I can fit my hand between the wheel and caliper in the rear.

Are the new wheels hubcentric? That may explain the wobble but not the throttle hesitation

Nope. Direct replacements from BCForged

The car did not move and you thought stomping the gas was the natural and best solution?

Absolutely! Worst case something breaks… replace it with something stronger!

 

[pittperson]

Problem defined. Guess which bolts are the rear. Had spacers on before the new wheels and my dumbass used the spacer bolts for the new wheels. Shaved those down on the rear knuckle or hub (haven't taken it apart yet). That explains why it wouldn't move to begin with until I gave it enough gas to shave that first bolt that was holding it up. There is only one spot that they catch which explains the "chugging." Cross threaded the rotor threads taking them out so I guess it's time for new rotors. The question is do I just replace them with stock or go all in?

 

[pittperson]

Just bought some new factory rotors. Learned my lesson here.

 

[Axix23]

Hope it didn’t mess up the wheels ?

 

[diablo2112]

I would not trust the suspension component that shaved these bolts off. That's a stressed component, and shaving down 5 bolts as you did probably tweaked that at a minimum. I'd have that looked at. It wouldn't hurt to check out the rest of the drivetrain (at least the U-joints) as they had a pretty good torque on them as well when those finally sheared off.

I really feel for you. It takes a lot of courage to admit this mistake. It will also help the rest of us to check these kind of things. Good for you for this update, and thanks for the clear explanation.

 

[wfujay]

I would not trust the suspension component that shaved these bolts off. That's a stressed component, and shaving down 5 bolts as you did probably tweaked that at a minimum. I'd have that looked at. It wouldn't hurt to check out the rest of the drivetrain (at least the U-joints) as they had a pretty good torque on them as well when those finally sheared off.

I really feel for you. It takes a lot of courage to admit this mistake. It will also help the rest of us to check these kind of things. Good for you for this update, and thanks for the clear explanation.

What suspension component would have done the sheering do you think?

 

[NeedCoffee]

Problem defined. Guess which bolts are the rear. Had spacers on before the new wheels and my dumbass used the spacer bolts for the new wheels. Shaved those down on the rear knuckle or hub (haven't taken it apart yet). That explains why it wouldn't move to begin with until I gave it enough gas to shave that first bolt that was holding it up. There is only one spot that they catch which explains the "chugging." Cross threaded the rotor threads taking them out so I guess it's time for new rotors. The question is do I just replace them with stock or go all in?

Ouch!

 

[pittperson]

What suspension component would have done the sheering do you think?

It ended up being the 4 bolts that hold the hub on. The bolts come from the back of the hub and are longer than the hub itself (doesn't make sense to me), you can see the hub bots in the picture. Those bolts made contact with the longer wheel bots and you can see the damage they took.

I took it to the dealer to have all 4 hubs checked for piece of mind, and to have on record that the dealer had inspected everything. I told them just to fix whatever needed to be fixed. I had the left rear hub replaced and ate $1300 as a life lesson.

Kudos to my dealer. I essentially walked in with a blank check for any and all repairs and wasn't taken advantage of.

Sponsored