SPL rub a dub dub and bent tie rods

[FLtrackdays]

Anyone else getting some friction against the inside of their wheel on a full turn?

I’ve got US Eibach springs and sway bars installed and Apex 18x10” ET30s on 275/35 tires. I added 10mm spacers all around and it went away. Until…. I got my latest alignment yesterday. The alignment shop called me and SPL about it. A few spots weren’t fully tightening and SPL said they’d replace the control arm under warranty (great company!). Oddly enough, SPL was more worried about the Supra ride height sensor not clamping on tightly. I’ll deal with that later. But any thoughts on this issue?

(Disclaimer: I love my car, not complaining or claiming this happens to other Supras. I‘m just looking for advice if y’all have seen this before or have any suggestions )

Oh yeah, they say I’ve bent two more tie rods . My mechanic is like “no way!” So he‘s going to look at that too. I haven’t even tracked since the new one was put on.

I’m hoping this last part isn’t true. But we’ll see… If the new one bent, something is definitely off.

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[Rocksandblues]

yikes! I am still OEM + camber plates + sway bars and (knock on wood) nothing is bent.

If you are bending them on the street- the geometry is off!

you can see the marks on the sway. I wonder (aloud) if taking off the SPL connection to tie to experiment??

I have not gone SPL yet- Main reason has been because I am cheap and have not been able to justify... Not sure of the gains. The car turns in and carves above my skill level already.

For ME- i believe the next track time gains will be from serious- JRZ, etc- coil over set up. I need better track contact and rebound

 

[razorlab]

I bet you have too many spacers on for your ride height. From the photos it looks like you are using all of them.

 

[MKVDevo]

I bet you have too many spacers on for your ride height. From the photos it looks like you are using all of them.

Agreed. I've seen similar issues in an entirely different chassis from that.

 

[suicidaleggroll]

It looks to me like you’re hitting the tie rod into the top of the sway bar, have you tried extending your sway bar endlinks to gain more clearance?

Also as the others have said, you only have a moderate drop, you shouldn’t be running all of the spacers on the LCAs or tie rod ends. Probably just the thick one by itself.

 

[FLtrackdays]

Thanks everyone! I’m dropping it off today and bringing my OEM tie rod ends just in case he wants to swap them out. I don’t even see the ride spacers in the picture. But I’ll ask him to remove them all and see if that makes a difference. I’m also wondering if this particular SPL part is too… strong (not sure the word I’m looking for) for the OEM tie rods?!? Hence why I might also just remove them. Manufacturer description below:

”SPL Parts Front Tie Rod Ends (TRE) allow the tie rod end pivot to be relocated, which will correct bump steer resulting from modified caster or lower arm geometry, thus reducing lap times. On cars that are lowered significantly, relocating the pivot point will also keep the tie rod end from binding, thereby preventing the inner tie rods from breaking or bending when racing.”

I’ll have some time next week to call SPL and inquire further what I’m doing wrong. But I would have never thought ride height spacers… Really really appreciate you guys!!!!!

 

[razorlab]

Don’t take them all out. You need at least the one big one in there. Take a look at the SPL instructions.

Plenty of people running the SPL tie rods with no issues, myself included.

What you should be doing is have the car on the ground and run the arms through their full articulation when you turn the wheel and see if there is any binding anywhere.

 

[razorlab]

@FLtrackdays for reference, I’m about .65 lower than stock:

 

[Bwh89]

Thanks everyone! I’m dropping it off today and bringing my OEM tie rod ends just in case he wants to swap them out. I don’t even see the ride spacers in the picture. But I’ll ask him to remove them all and see if that makes a difference. I’m also wondering if this particular SPL part is too… strong (not sure the word I’m looking for) for the OEM tie rods?!? Hence why I might also just remove them. Manufacturer description below:

”SPL Parts Front Tie Rod Ends (TRE) allow the tie rod end pivot to be relocated, which will correct bump steer resulting from modified caster or lower arm geometry, thus reducing lap times. On cars that are lowered significantly, relocating the pivot point will also keep the tie rod end from binding, thereby preventing the inner tie rods from breaking or bending when racing.”

I’ll have some time next week to call SPL and inquire further what I’m doing wrong. But I would have never thought ride height spacers… Really really appreciate you guys!!!!!

Your issue is too many spacers. You can contact PhD for recommendations for your specific ride height. I run full SPL with KW CS and the eibach sb with 18” Titan 7s and 315 square. I finished a full track season with no clearance issues. See attached for reference. I would add one more of the small washers to the toe link if needed. I will be selling off the KW Club Sports as soon as my JRZ’s come in. The KW’s are great for road and moderate track work but are currently maxed out on my dedicated track car.

 

[kaj]

So there's a narrow margin of clearance for install, I'm seeing. And it's trial and error?

 

[razorlab]

So there's a narrow margin of clearance for install, I'm seeing. And it's trial and error?

No, he just added all the spacers when he shouldn’t have. It’s relatively clear in the instructions

Also good practice to check clearances.

 

[kaj]

No, he just added all the spacers when he shouldn’t have. It’s relatively clear in the instructions

Also good practice to check clearances.

I check for clearances, but doing it three or four times is no fun.

 

[razorlab]

I check for clearances, but doing it three or four times is no fun.

I followed the instructions, did it once, and good to go.

 

[FLtrackdays]

Less spacers and sway bar adjustment worked!!!! Really appreciate it y’all

Muchas Gracias @razorlab @suicidaleggroll and @Bwh89 . Will give it a go this Friday at Sebring. Can’t wait

Will likely switch to coilovers off season (summer). You mentioned changing out yours @Bwh89 for JRZ. Are there any brands or coilovers that are better at plug and play - work with the Supra computer pretty straight forward? I’m still going to make short drives to work. She’s not a dedicated track car. I do like driving to and from the tracks. I did the storage and transport thing for years in my S2K and ultimately got burned out. Amazing how many there are to choose from:

https://www.vividracing.com/coilovers-c-4210.html?class_8=39&class_9=80137&page=2

 

[razorlab]

Less spacers and sway bar adjustment worked!!!! Really appreciate it y’all

Muchas Gracias @razorlab @suicidaleggroll and @Bwh89 . Will give it a go this Friday at Sebring. Can’t wait

Will likely switch to coilovers off season (summer). You mentioned changing out yours @Bwh89 for JRZ. Are there any brands or coilovers that are better at plug and play - work with the Supra computer pretty straight forward? I’m still going to make short drives to work. She’s not a dedicated track car. I do like driving to and from the tracks. I did the storage and transport thing for years in my S2K and ultimately got burned out. Amazing how many there are to choose from:

https://www.vividracing.com/coilovers-c-4210.html?class_8=39&class_9=80137&page=2

Glad you got it figured out! How many spacers did you end up with?

Take a look at Ohlins for street/track. Great cost/performance/ride quality ratio.

Then after that, large bump in price…

Next up would be MCS. Great ride quality and amazing on track. I personally use MCS.

JRZ vs MCS is preference.

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