Alignment Jacked?

[Mr. Jonathan]

Anyone else running an alignment as seemingly jacked as mine? Just had it done and as you see from the Pic. Its a little better now when comparing the BEFORE and AFTER.... but, the front camber is still not in a good place. I was hoping to get the camber on all four wheels below >2. However, I was told by the "wheel aligner", he is unable to do the adjustment because of the H&R lowering springs. I guess the OEM "arms" do not provide enough play/adjustment? Has anyone else had a similar issue with this after installing H&R springs? My ride height is 13 1/2" Front. I have 12mm spacers.

I don't understand how the right front camber can show -2.09, but the left cant be adjusted to match....Also, if you see anything with this alignment other than the camber I should have adjusted please let me know. I plan on taking it to another shop to have them look at it.

Kinda piss with this. I brought the car in to replace the two rear tires. Both were down to the steal belt on the very inside edge. The rest of the rear tires had a little tread before the warning strip. All in all this is my fault as I did a bad job of really inspecting this car before buying.... Didn't know it was lowered.

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[suicidaleggroll]

2 deg of camber is normal when lowered, seems fine to me. The camber is not adjustable, it is what it is. If you want to make it adjustable you can get camber plates or front LCAs, but 2 deg on the front shouldn’t cause any problems.

 

[Tsuki8]

How miles did you do before the alignment?

Kinda glad i spent the extra and got camber plates.
Im a few days into lowering on the Eibach Z4s.

 

[Mr. Jonathan]

15k out of the rear tires assuming they are the originals. I’ve only had the car 5 months/5k miles. The front tires are wearing fine, still have a lot of treat.

 

[FLtrackdays]

Being lowered inherently gives you additional camber. If you want to be able to dial it in, camber plates or adjustable control arms are the way to go. Slight toe out up front and in on the back can be common if you track. Otherwise spec is good.

I have used Verus camber plates if you want to save a few bucks. Still loaded on my old Eibach springs however.

 

[Mr. Jonathan]

@FLtrackdays my aim is to go toward a square set up so I can rotate the my tires and hopefully get a little more life out them. From what I’m reading though the front will be an issue with 275/35/10 on OEM rims because it’s lowered unless I get to a +25 vs +40…. In order to do so I would need aftermarket control arms all around and camber plates (I think). Or I could just go back to OEM springs?
This is the first car I’ve MOD’d and I’m quickly learning if you change one thing there are multiple consequences to others.

 

[FLtrackdays]

@FLtrackdays my aim is to go toward a square set up so I can rotate the my tires and hopefully get a little more life out them. From what I’m reading though the front will be an issue with 275/35/10 on OEM rims because it’s lowered unless I get to a +25 vs +40…. In order to do so I would need aftermarket control arms all around and camber plates (I think). Or I could just go back to OEM springs?
This is the first car I’ve MOD’d and I’m quickly learning if you change one thing there are multiple consequences to others.

I have a 2nd set of 18 inch wheels for my 275/35 square tire setup. You’d only need one or the other, camber plates or adjustable control arms to add more camber. If you want to track a good amount = need more camber. If just for street, hakuna matata. OEM springs are fine if you’re not going for a specific look. So many different strokes for different folks for these cars. So you see all kinds of setups.

If you want to get the most life out of your tires for daily driving, OEM springs would be best. Your alignment shop will be able to get you closer to a spec alignment if not lowered further.

Hope that helps hombré!

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