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It's Ctek unit with the 1500mm long leads from memory. The longest leads anyway. Some 3m tape holds it to the plastic trim no issues and the positive lead runs neatly around the back of the engine bay to the positive engine bay terminal. The earth wire connects under a strut bolt on the same...

I don't even need to lift the trunk or hood for that matter. I just connect to this. Even tells me when I need to connect it to the charger. No drilling required.

I think you're the only one that thought you were in a "race" there :lol: Phil

I meant you may have gotten some bad fuel. Phil

Fuel? Phil

I might suggest you adjust your riding style if your dragging pegs on a street triple on the road. Even on my old Ducati 1000ss on the track with my old school no hanging off riding style the last thing I need to worry about is dragging pegs. Same on the old 2007 GSXR1000. I rode friends Harley...

This should read "I liked hearing the Harleys go by and their foot boards scraping the pavement lol. On a decent Sportsbike one a road like this you don't need to worry about dragging pegs. Why would you ride a Harley around a road like that, you're just going to be a mobile chicane. Phil

I thought you were concerned with running lower rear tyre pressures in the axle tramp thread and the affect it would have on fuel economy and tyre life :doh: Phil

You could paint that drywall while your waiting ;)

Try using a load tester on it and see what it says. Everyone should have one in their tool kit these days with battery condition being so critical to the modern cars electronics. About $60 aud or there abouts on Amazon or Fleabay Phil

A proper charger designed to punch some real amperage into the battery. Trickle chargers sometimes just don't have the grunt to bring an AGM battery that's down in charge back to a fully charged state. Pretty cheap at Supercheap or Auto barn or I could lend you one. Here's some info on Odyssey...

Put it on a proper battery charger and leave it for 4 hours + and then see how it goes. Phil

You've confused me. @razorlab said he's aiming for 32-33 psi hot (on track) which is LOWER not higher according to your chart for a 1700kg car?

Looks like it's shed a section of the open exhaust valve perimeter. If you look above that section you can see a semi-circular part of the valve seat and opposite that on the rhs of the image the cross section of the head gasket. This is the hard part of boro images, image orientation...

Not having seen one in the flesh or had a chance to inspect one in detail I'm not sure I'd be totally comfortable with those style of machined centrifugal compressor blades. The images seem to indicate it leaves a small saw tooth leading edge on each blade and if that's the case it's not really...

My 26YO son spends a lot of time complaining about his lot in life financially. He's on a 110K package at work and still lives at home with his mother paying no rent! Not long ago I sat there at a family barbecue listening to him complain about not being able to afford a deposit for a house...

Might want to consider ditching the EFI and going back to carbs as well ;) Triple dcoe Webers maybe? Phil

Wont affect oil consumption. Phil

I've got a ton of experience with borescoping and to the untrained or inexperienced operator minor damage can often look very bad. Thats why when we boroed jet engines we had the actual turbine blades in the engine on hand for reference and we had boro gear with scaling so we could do...

Before you make any decisions you need to pull the head and check the damage to the valve seats and piston. You may quite feasibly get away with a new valve and valve cut and grind by a cylinder head shop. Why does it happen? Not sure esp with mods listed. A friend of mine had the exact same...