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Yes, any build date before 05/20 and you're golden. When I bought mine, I was looking for a specific build date. Your build date is the same as mine.

I made it to around 4,500miles before my low oil light came on. I think I lasted until this late on the odometer is because I usually waited for about 15 minutes of driving before using the gas pedal in a normal matter. I was always gentle until the car warmed up. I think most of the blow by...

Do a test run with a pipe cleaner, and fish it around. If you can hear it move around, then attach a small rolled up ball of gorilla tape to the end of the pipe cleaner (bend the pipe cleaner in the proper shape). Also have needle nose pliers ready to grab the piece when you pull it up with the...

You can tune the 21's if the build date is prior to 06/20. I looked for an early build date Supra to tune it, but after driving the car I'm not going to bother. The thing is plenty quick, and more than what the average person can handle. I had a 2009 370z prior to my Supra, and it's a totally...

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I've worked at two dealerships, and the things I've witnessed were unspeakable. I will not do any maintenance, or breath on the car until the warranty is up.

The first dealership I tried to get an oil change from was going to put the generic 0w 20 in. It's best just to watch them perform the oil change. I plan on reminding them how much new oil to put back in, and the torque specs on the filter, and oil drain plug 18NM, 25 foot ft pounds.

Still on factory oil. The car goes in for the first oil change next month.

Well, I thought I was in the clear for the oil warning, but today was the day at 4,580 miles. (7,366kms). I went to the dealer so it could be documented. He only added 3/4 of a quart instead of a full one, and the the oil indicator went to full again. I don't think the dipstick is very accurate...

I checked that as well, and it was tight. I did find that the hatch strut was loose at on of the ball sockets, but I'm unsure if that was the noise. I grabbed both struts, and wiggled them both. the left one had some play in it.

I removed the lid, rear trunk floor, and also pulled all the stuff out of the side compartment (Tire inflation kit...etc) The noise still was there.

Thunk Rattle going over bumps. my speed must be over 30mph though.

I'm currently at 4500 miles (7,300kms). I'm still riding the 3/4 low mark. (one green bar left) It's been like this for a quite a long time now. Either it's stabilised, or my dipstick has failed, and I'm running way below minimum oil. On a lighter note, I'm selling my 2014 3 series, and getting...

Help! Does anybody else have a noise coming from the rear going over cracks in the pavement. It almost sounds like the hatch isn't closed properly. I've adjusted the bump stops on the hatch, and the noise persists. It's not coming from the suspension. I've done some tests that rule that out...

I'm confused. Where do you put electrical tape? Thanks.

I think the others cars tire caught your splitter while turning and pulled it out from the bumper. It's really low for a fender to catch it, or a punk kid put his weight on it using his foot.

Are you using the stock downpipe?

This almost happened to me a few weeks ago. I asked about what kind of oil, and they said they were going to use the bulk 0w20 they had in stock! I said, that's the wrong kind of oil, and told them the part number for the oil. Beware of the dealership oil.

I have the 3.0, and I've never used it to it's full potential. If I owned a 2.0, the only thing I would change is the exhaust, and put some bigger non black 19" wheels.