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Looking into tuning my ECU but want to know what people are making for power on the E50 tune

I’ve been told by people that Toyota cannot do anything since I’m burning within spec. I have oil to top off, I’m using liquimoly 5w-30 but it’s a shame it’s still burning. Any other guys here just ignore it and keep topping off? I do a mixed of lots of highway and just WOT pulls.

If I measure the oil when I just finished driving it’s really hard in sport mode, can that throw a wrong reading? How accurate is it? It said I was at half a quart after 630 miles when I topped off but I put 1/4 quart in and it went back to MAX

I bought my 21 back in December with 5k miles, and the first 5k I burned no oil in the winter. Spring came and burned 1 quart at 3.5k miles, and now I’m at 2k miles on 5w-30 liquimoly and burned another quart from 13.5-16.5k miles. If I bring it into the dealer I’m not sure if they can even do...

I have a 2021 3.0, first time I ever got an oil warning was at 13.5k miles and that was after I drove 3500 miles and was on 0-20 and was a quart low. I changed to 5w-30 liquimoly at 14000 miles and drove 1300 miles and burned about 1/4 of a quart I’m still almost at full just slightly lower than...

Okay sick. Do you know what a cat simulator actually is by any chance?

Are you also stock tune? I have a 2021+ so not tunable easily

How is it going for you guys? How many miles on the DP and have you thrown a CEL?

My friend says the MST intake needs a heat shield to work. So is there no point of me buying an intake for this car then? I have a 21 3.0 for info.

I was looking into the armytrix. Let me know how it goes. Have you done lots of research on it, I’ve heard it’s not full proof. How much did yours cost? I keep seeing them sold out online

So I bought my Supra used from a dealer but it came with a warranty from the dealer(not a Toyota dealer) that I got a 10 year 150k mile powertrain and I can bring to any dealer or something and I can claim warranty work on it. Now, i want to run mods(catless downpipe and intake) for now. If I...

Do you just run the car with a check engine light?

Perfect thanks for the info. I heard people saying the powerband became “weird” after downpipe but I just didn’t think it was true. Did you have any issues with daily driving afterwards? How many miles did you run catless downpipe?

Looking to see HP and torque differences. I’m not expecting much I just want to see the powerband difference, and make sure there is no drop off in torque. Thanks

I really want to do a catless downpipe but don’t want to void my powertrain warranty for now. Stock exhaust is quiet for me, anyone have a reference of stock vs delete? also, would intake void my powertrain as well or no?

Yeah I figured it wouldn’t be too bad. I’m switching to 5w-30 next oil change. Not sure if I should use liquimoly or a different oil anyone can recommmend.

I have a 2021 with 13.5k miles. Didn’t have burning issues all winter from 5000miles-10000miles, but after spring I burned 1 quart after 10,000-13.5k miles. I’m hoping my car doesn’t have a faulty engine, car is stock. Could it be the hard driving and thin oil with the weather heating up...

I like BMWs plush and thicker wheel better than the surpas. I can custom make a Toyota badge cover for it, just wondering if it’s been done before or not. thanks

It’s more so just getting value for money. An AWE catback costing $1800 but gives no performance gains vs a $400 DP, giving some performance gains and saving $1400 to get the ECU unlocked would be worth it to me, but I’m just trying to retain the warranty for as long as I can that’s all

Well a catless DP is about $400 and a catback is averaging about $1800 and I don’t see the value in a catback to be honest. That why I wanted a DP + I like the stock catback look