Search results

D control sketches me out, NGL

Yes, i used wgdc to mean wastegate control (in general). This would also apply to constant-leakage manual boost controllers compared to ball-spring MBCs.

Some throttle cut is always necessary since it's trying to spool up as quickly as possible and then "catch" the overboost. The other option (making the WGDC overly conservative, but keeping the throttle fully open the entire time) would almost certainly result in a slower spool. This was a...

So embarrassed he had to cover up his license plate :thumbsup:

Well lucky for us, it should be trivially easy for us to test your theory. The fan connector can be reached without removing any parts, and your car already comes equipped with all sensors for you to log. Just unplug the fan for a session and report back.

They would be on the same order of magnitude at cruising speed. For it to be an order of magnitude of difference, the fan would be pushing air like 2 mph in freestream, and that is certainly not true.

Timing looks great on both logs. You can turn it up more if you want, but personally i would try using slightly less E next tank and try to strech out how often you need to buy e85 cans.

I mean if you're really curious you can just get a gallon of Everclear and pour it in. Everclear is 95% alcohol, 5% water. The engine should be fine with it considering people inject 50/50 methanol-water mixtures for cooling.

Driving 70 miles to fill up doesn't really sound sustainable in the long term. You may need to just build a map 6 that targets +2 psi. Your log has map 1's target vs rpm. Just scale it down.

Checked the docs again, Ign2-6 is per-cylinder retard from the setpoint/lookup/whatever, not the delta of curves (cyl 1)-(cyl n). Either way, some information is lost. We don't know what the ideal setpoint is, so you don't know if a given cylinder is doing better/worse than cylinder 1.

If 2-6 are worse than 1, you can work out the math. If 2-6 are better than 1, :dunno:

Looks like there's a way to revert it back to the old way

Leave the firmware as-is, it works better for MT Old firmware version, ign for all cylinders 1-6 is reported as the raw number. Just need to make sure they stay together and rise together. For new firmware versions, cylinder 1 is the raw number, 2-6 are reported as deviations from cylinder 1...

Both logs, boost control seems fine, but timing looks marginal on 93. Keep it on map 1 for that fuel (or find a different gas station). You can turn it up more for 94. (i see you're on the new firmware with the weird equation for cyl 2-6) There is a small amount of overshoot at 4000 but...

Why not just buy actual motorsports parts for that price?

Rear camber and toe look fine. If anything, they are on the more conservative side so they should be wearing slower than everyone else. What is your mileage per year?

All gone

The immaculate build quality only makes me more nervous about the price 😅

That's the battery vent tube. When you charge the battery, there are small amounts of hydrogen gas created. This vents it outside the cabin. Look for a small hole along the top edge of your battery for that to plug into