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Did you guys zip tie that two wire connector to the factory receptacle, or just kind of let it sit loosey-goosey?

New in packaging. 15 plus actual shipping.

Do HPFP's even work like that? I know that trading pressure for flow is a common strategy with electric pumps, but I was under the impression that cam-driven fuel pumps deliver the most volumetric flow when the commanded pressure is high. https://openecu.com/gdi-fuel-pump-control/ edit...

Seems strange, literally every other RWD car has their driveshaft and exhaust travel through the tunnel in close proximity, most of the time without a heatshield that the supra does.

The cheapest most accessible way would be to add a few gallons of E85. Start with 2 gallons per tank and we can go from there. Timing should clean up but your fuel trims will increase. Increase boost until timing starts to dip. Next tank, add a little more E85 and we add a little bit more...

Maybe you can procrastinate the transmission by starting on the roll cage first. Just pull one plastic panel to Kickstart it and you won't be able to stop

Moderate amount of timing corrections on map 2. Map 1 has fewer but nothing to be alarmed about. Keep it on map 1. No need for a map 6 tune. Boost control is decent, but i see you're essentially outrunning the turbo above 5500 rpm. I would bump up duty bias for all points above 5000 by about...

If you're on android, turn OFF wifi assistant as well. This will cause your phone to failover to your home wifi if it can't detect internet on the obd adapter.

Personally, i am using racebred+proawe for now until this splitter blade dies. If i could go back in time, i would have told myself to wait for AJ hartman.

Sorry, i should have clarified. There are some coding deletions that are useful to folks NOT installing the duct. I have a possible revision to the codings but its been snowing a lot here. One of the codes only gets thrown after the car is in motion, so i can't check that one in the garage.

Just noticed this, I don't think the logged IAT is the charge pipe temp. This should be in the ~300 degF range under boost, due to the thermodynamic work done by the compressor.

Yeah, between myself, mike from bossboss, traxion, a whole bunch of guys on FB, and now TBK having a catastrophic failure of his splitter, I am withdrawing my recommendation of racebred until they revise their design to get rid of the cables.

In that case, I would pop off the strut cover on that side and see if there's a secret camber plate hiding there. Otherwise, if the lower control arm is stock, something's bent

Does the washer fluid level sensor use same as the washer pump? Or at least one of the existing ones? And maybe @DivineDrive.co could collab with you to have front radar sensor caps parking sensors for the folks that chop the rear diffuser

Garmin badly needs a competitor to their catalyst product. I would start with an accelerometer and obd-based metrics and go from there.

The engine DOES need to see a bit of pressure/vacuum or it will throw a code. I tried seeing what would happen with a completely open crank port and it about 15 minutes before the light came on.

There is a check valve in the fitting that only allows air to go into the crankcase from this hose. That being said, no check valve is perfectly leakage-free and some oil will weep out over time. https://www.supramkv.com/threads/address-blow-by-oil-ccv-or-pcv-catch-can.33616/post-515952

That first one would probably work if you chopped it down... Though at this point i dont think anyone cares but me and I'm just typing into the void

Out of curiosity I grabbed a brass 90 and see if it would fit between the crankcase and turbo without getting in the way of intake or charge pipe. The answer is no, there's also not enough space to clock it to the left or down