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It will make more downforce with less drag. We’ve done CFD testing of both on the car and it’s not really close. I’ll be switching to the V1X for next season and selling my Spage wing.

The V1X wing is much better than the Spage unit.

One tuner, who is mentioned multiple times in this thread as being great, gave me an awful tune that resulted in tons of surging and instability. The car literally bucked around so bad under partial throttle that it would break the rear end loose through corners. I tried to get them to fix it...

Done it multiple times myself with no issues. I’ve even reset adaptations and then sent it on track with 0 problems.

Just flash and take it on track. It’s not going to reset the adaptations.

brother, who gives you this trash advice?

I wouldn’t run leaded fuel, but you could run ms109 or 260 gt plus. They’re both 104 octane unleaded.

I’ve used 3 different tuners, all of them were highly recommended and very responsive. They all had a lot of experience with tuning high hp cars and tuning track cars. All of them got about as much power as you could expect out of the setup, but only Zach @ CSG achieved 10/10 smooth power...

I ran the RSL 1 on my rear axle once and managed to overheat them in 3 laps at ABCC. RSL 1 is a higher friction and more heat tolerant pad than RSL 29, so I can't imagine the 29 would withstand many laps with grippy tires or on a car with much hp.

Zach @ CSG is the best by far. Only tuner I'll use.

Get a Walker Pro Motorsport or Dashbuilt roll bar if you want one that’s actually functional.

Idk how so many people have issues with pad compounds. Drive 2-3 fast laps without triggering ABS and every pad is going to be smoking hot and pretty well bedded in my experience. The “do a few hard stops” strategy is usually just not enough (although it’s a good start on your outlap). I ran at...

Run the driveshaft loop with your new driveshaft, use a new oem guibo, and check your guibo a couple times per year.

me and Allen are slow, we only set 3 track records that weekend. don’t trust us ?

those are Toyota brackets

you need a 23mm spacer or something wacky like that with oem suspension. Having said that… just get some coilovers.

Lowering the car messes up the rear toe curve, ie it changes the way that toe changes through the range of motion of the rear wheel (yes, this is called bump steer - your wheels changing direction under bump) As @razorlab pointed out, the rear toe and traction arms can be replaced to correct...

literally all the fastest Supras independently have similar setups but this guy will continue to think that we’re all wrong ??

No

Just wait two weeks. Someone will reach out to you.