I have a set of used Swift lowering springs for sale. Worked great and love the drop. Planning on going wide 18 squared setup so switched to HKS for inner strut clearance.
$180 local pick up (SoCal 91791) or buyer pays shipping
Would you be able to drill a new end link hole about 1-1.25" lower on the Ohlin's tab and use a shorter end link? Just spitballing for a solution. Good luck!
I'm running aFe Takeda Exhaust.
Fitment: Perfect.
Normal Mode Sound: Subtle. If you want to be nice to neighbors
Sport Mode Sound: Deep and decently loud.
The excessive play in the SPL LCA heim joint would definitely explain the tramlining you were describing in the other thread. I would be interested to see how bad the joint is once you get it out.
It looks like the November picture is taken of the Right "Passenger" side and the now picture is of the Left "Driver" side. Can you confirm that to make sure we comparing the same sides?
Your struts are most likely seated into the knuckles at this point. Perhaps inspect and measure both sides...
This is one of those rare cars that any color looks good. I'm normally not a fan of black or yellow cars, but once I saw a black Supra in person I knew I had to get it. I would have equally gotten a yellow one if the black wasn't available. There really isn't a wrong color for this car.
Diamond Hills Collision Center
DIAMOND BAR
(909) 468-5626
20540 E WALNUT DR. N
DIAMOND BAR, CA 91789
[email protected]
We had our BMW X1 fixed here and they did an impressive job repairing it. Our rear bumper, wheel, and part of the quarter panel got swiped from a hit...
Just to add another data point, I have the 19" Titan7's and run 305/30R19 Falken RT660's in the rear with Swift lowering springs and I do not rub. The RT660's run wide to boot.
I ran a front aFe sway by itself for a while and did not have excessive understeer. These cars really need more front negative camber via adjustable LCA's or camber plates, but that may not be an option for your class. This and good tires and alignment. How do your front tires look? Are you...
I second the stud conversion recommendation. I've been autocrossing for over 20 years and my first upgrade for my MINI cooper S and now this Supra was a stud conversion. Save yourself the headache.
I had a Seibon carbon hood that had OE style latches. I drove the car at normal street speeds for a few months until I eventually installed Aerocatch pins. If you are worried about whether or not you'll make it to the shop, I think you'll be fine. I just wouldn't drive at excessively high speeds.
I'm about $6k into mods. I feel like I've upgraded the car as much as I'd like to for now.
It's not like my FR-S where I kept throwing money at it in attempts to make it my forever fun car. In the 9 years I owned it, I think I put over $20k in mods into my supercharged FR-S and in the end...
I would be down for one if you make extra sets. I don't have any oil consumption issues at the moment (9000mi), but I'd like to see physical measurements versus just trusting a BMW computer.